93 GP steering wheel removal w/stereo controls

[junk_jivin38]

hi all...new here...just got a 93 grand prix...i need to replace the signal switch and wondering what is the trick to removing the steering wheel cover?im thnking the buttons must pop off (just like my keyboard keys???)to expose screws?i dont want to break anything...have ordered chilton manual but its not in yet any help will be greatly appreciated...also,where can i find a driver door handle and turn signal switch cheap?

[richtazz]

If your car is a 2-door, Dorman/Motormite makes an aftermarket exterior door handle, part #77170 and it retails for under $30. If it's a 4-door, they don't make one for it so you'll have to go salvage yard or dealer.

The AC-Delco part number for the m/f switch is D6274, but it isn't cheap (about $120-$140 retail). Also, does your 93 have air-bags?

[junk_jivin38]

fortunately, no airbags..car is a 2-door..i was at the scrapyard yesterday..they had no GP's but did have a door handle...problem is...wrong side...bought it anyway for$10..probly need it sometime...gonna order the driver side and the switch this week

[junk_jivin38]

whole unit pops out w/a screwdriver..nothing broken that wore me out..time for a few beers...tomorrow,we remove the wheel...

[lefty1120]

As for the door handle which are notorious for breaking, you can find them all over Ebay for around $29 or so. Make sure you want gloss black or flat black.

I take it the turn signal assembly behind the steering wheel broke? Autozone (maybe other parts stores) do sell new assemblies. That would be the way I'd go.

My '93 Factory Service Manual says to use a screwdriver and VERY CAREFULLY remove the SWC (steering wheel control) pad.

good luck

Lefty

[junk_jivin38]

i am assuming the turn switch is broken due to the turn signals didnt work at all when i bought the car...checked all bulbs and grounds..then started wiggling the switch around and got a couple blinks out of it...tells me its not making contact...gotta hold off on parts right now...my kid blew the motor in his monte SS so i hadda "help" him buy a jeep and register it,etc...hopefully have the funds next week...cant wait to get this thing on the road..looks like fun to drive,even with only the 3.1...i once had a park ave ultra w/the 3800 series 2 S/C...wish i still had that motor...junked it after air bags deployed for no reason,almost made me crash...anyway,thanks 4 the help..will update later

[junk_jivin38]

ok..got the wheel off,checked switch...found one of the 6 contact points was worn through...thinkin maybe i could solder up the hole...reconnected the battery,turned on left signal and placed tip of screwdriver inside contact point...signals worked...switched to right signal...inserted screwdriver and it arced and smoked at top of the contact tang...oh well , worth a shot...so ,my next question is...how do i remove the multi-pin connector for the switch...chilton calls for special tool but doesnt really show details so i can make one(i avoid buying single use tools if there is a chance i can make 1)the tool appears to be a thin point such as a pick...what i dont know is how big it is...will a paperclip work? too big? maybe a piece of wire? automotive pick?...cant really see in the chilton photo...maybe its flat? anyone know ? also i am assuming the outer column cover will come out when i unfasten the switch..am i correct on that?and finally,is there anything else to remove to get at the connector? i didnt have my torx drivers w/me when i pulled the wheel (car is at the firehouse 5 miles away) so didnt remove the switch,,,any surprises when i do pull it? gotta get this thing on the road...any help appreciated...thanks,jon

[tblake]

I usually use dental picks. They do the job pretty well with removing contacts.

Problem is finding them. I think I saw a bunch at a flea market a while back.

[lefty1120]

yea...you'll need your Torx drivers. Remove the hazard button and the plastic frame around the column. If I remember correctly (I replaced mine back in '00) the switch assembly just unhooks from the wire bundle.

Don't mess with contact replacement...get a new assembly. Bit pricey, but beats going back under the steering wheel later....again. Alternative is getting one from a junkyard......of course no garantees there either.

http://www.autozone.com/R,921254/veh...ductDetail.htm

[junk_jivin38]

OK...all fixed...now for future reference,here is the answer i was looking for...
gently pry out the steering wheel cover w/a screwdriver,unplug connector,remove the round "contact hub"(not sure what its called...imcalling it a hub)remove s/w nut,pull s/w with a puller,remove signal lever torx screw and 3 signal switch torx screws,remove 4-way flasher switch by unscrewing it,hang signal lever off to the side,pull assembly off the steering spindle,and pull and twist the column cover..it should pull off...now it gets fun..remove bottom dash covers,locate the multi-pin connector...its bolted in under the column...unbolt it and turn it so you can see the connectors...there should be 2 empty slots (no wire)chilton calls for a special tool but i used an automotive pick and a test light probe to depress the tabs inside the connector...while pressing inward on the probes,slide the turn signal connector (the top 1) toward you til its free..mine had a small,secondary connector,unplug that...follow the wires til u find a plastic sleeve thru the column (i had already loosened the column bolts from the dash...not sure if u need to)this sleeve slides toward the front of the car,when its free,open it and remove it from the wires...tie a single wire to the harness from under dash...this will aid in guiding the harness up thru the column as well as snaking the new 1 in...remove the old switch...VERY IMPORTANT...compare the wires on orig harness to the new one...my car had two more wires than the new,so i had to transfer them to the new 1...inside the black connector is a white plastic spacer which i removed w/a pick...remove your extra wires(noting their position in the connector),install them in your new 1 and pop the spacer in...my new switch didnt have the spacer,so you probably have to transfer that regardless...now attach your 'snake' wire to the new connector and very carefully guide it thru the column.be sure your connectors line up.reattach the multi-pin..and snug it up w/the bolt,being careful to keep it straight....put it all back together(after testing the signals)mine worked fine..till i put the wheel back on...one of the rings on the 'contact hub was worn thru...i need to replace it but in the meantime,i removed the spring-loaded contact terminal from the signal switch...they poll out w/ pliers,make sure you remove the spring too...now everything works except the play/stop buttons on the wheel....hope this helps somebody out
jon

[junk_jivin38]

added bonus: its hard to believe where some problems originate...a couple more things i had on my list to fix on this car...replace battery-wouldnt hold a charge; find out why the engine hesitated for a second when i hit the gas;and why the auto door locks were operating at random...
anyway,after i put the car back together from the switch repair,it fired right up,runs great...no hesitation,auto locks working properly,battery has plenty of power....all these problems were caused by the signal switch being bad?? ...crazy....
thanks for listening...jon