92 Camry door panel removal - locks/windows

[new92]

Just bought '92 LE 2.2 with 151k. New Michelins, cat back exhaust, front pads, belts including timing, hoses, radiator, paint and rebuilt tranny. Seller stated radiator/line leaks killed the former transmission. Compression check showed 178-190 psi across all 4. No obvious fluid leaks. Rides and drives fine, so we bought it.

This site is a great resource. I downloaded the owners manual to get after some things that need fixing, but I didn't find a door panel schematic. The key tumbler in the drivers door won't always operate the power locks, and the switches in the drivers door panel for the rear windows will lower the windows but not raise them. The individual switches work fine in each rear door. Is there a best way to remove the panel without damaging it? How many clips and where are they? Any hidden screws or wiring? Do I need a special tool?

While I'm at it, anyone know the size and length of the 4 screws that go in the bottom of the shroud around the steering column and tilt wheel? All 4 are gone.

There are other details to attend to, but I think my wife and I got a good ride for less than 3 grand.

Thanks for a great site - looking forward to participating.

[jdmccright]

Welcome to the Toyota AF!

An interior panel removal tool is highly recommended...looks like a flat, bent, two-bladed screwdriver. I'd recommend wrapping the metal shank near the tip with plastic tape to prevent damage to painted surfaces. A regular small prybar can be used, but wrap the end in tape. You'll also need a large and small phillps-head screwdriver, and a flatblade screwdriver.

The door panels are not difficult to remove, but there are many clips and screws to deal with. So bear with me....

Along the trailing door jamb edge are two plastic push-in retainers...press in the center abt 1/8" and then you can remove them with the removal tool or flat blade screwdriver.

You must remove the interior door handle trim piece. Use a small flat blade screwdriver (tape-wrapped) to wedge between the trim and the door handle hinge and push up to disengage the clip from the lower hinge, then pull the bottom of the trim gently out. Then push up on the trim piece to disengage it from the upper end of the hinge...again you can use the screwdriver to help. Pull the trailing end of the trim out while pulling on the door handle and pull it back and out to release the forward tang. Yes, this is a PITA...but be gentle yet firm.

Next, remove the plugs and covers from the screw heads...one in the pull handle near the front, two more on the panel near the forward edge, and one just above the map pocket. Remove the screws (3 small, 2 large).

There is a third big handle screw hidden behind the red door light. Use the flat blade screwdriver to pry it out then remove the screw.

Use the removal tool or pry bar to gently pull the bottom of the panel loose...there are four push-in clips along the bottom. Be gentle since the panel is old and likely brittle.

The panel should now be hanging by the top edge. Reach under and disconnect the wiring to the buttons and red door light, then push up on the panel to disengage it from the door. It should be free now.

[new92]

Thanks for the excellent walkthrough, jdm! Exactly what I was looking for. I'll post back what I find after I do it, maybe it will help someone else.

Off topic but related, I sure wish posters would describe the problem or solution in the thread titles. Topics such as "Help" or " '96 Camry problem" aren't useful when searching the forum. I see it's addressed in the Etiquette section, but it seems to be ignored regularly. I'm sure some questions get answered multiple times because of this.

That aside, the FAQ sticky is one of the best anywhere and I have it bookmarked. This forum has already saved me time and money. Thanks again!

[jdmccright]

I believe the column cover screws are no longer than 1" and are 1/8" self-tapping. By now the holes for the lower cover may be cracked from age. If you still have them intact or are planning in on removing it, I'd suggest making up a small batch of epoxy to dab around them from the inside and the mating screw holes. Age and vibration takes it's toll on these fasteners.

If you find that the switches are good, turn your attention to the driver's door wiring harness...specifically the section that goes between the door and the body. This section suffers from fatigue failure, so the wires eventually break. You'll have to remove the harness to repair it, but sometimes pinching or rolling it in between your fingers as you operate the buttons will cause long enough to diagnose and maybe even roll up that window. Good luck!

[FRANKENCAMRY]

Originally Posted by new92

Is there a best way to remove the panel without damaging it?

Here's an excellent, illustrated DIY on Gen 3 front speaker insall which includes how to remove the door panel.

http://rayrayonline.bravehost.com/frontspeaker1.htm

[1ATony]

This video will show you how to remove it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4QtnKM4RWI