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#1
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97 U-joint replacement
97 Blazer 146k miles. I want to replace the rear u-joint in back of the drive axle by the pumpkin. Looks like there are plastic pins in one side of the universal joint. Please tell me how to go about getting this u-joint off. The two straps and 4 bolts are easy to get off, but after that,it's a mystery to me. Thanks.
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#2
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Re: 97 U-joint replacement
Quote:
It takes quite a bit of heat to do this. I needed 2 hand held torches to do it.
__________________
It's my opinion, don't take it personal. '04 T&C,'01 Blazer ZR2, '97 Blazer, '97 Sunfire, '85 Vette, '79 Civic, 94 FLSTC |
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#3
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Re: 97 U-joint replacement
Thanks for that info.
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#4
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Re: 97 U-joint replacement
Here is a old blog that basically agrees with Mike.
When I did the U-Joints on an older GM Rear Wheel Drive it went something like this. Once you remove the nuts on the U-Bolts and remove the driveshaft from the vehicle, you may notice that there are no snap rings or retainer clips on the U-Joints. You will probably see a small hole in the top of the yoke over each bearing cap. The small hole in mine was filled with an Orange plastic that is injected into the hole at the factory and holds the cap in place. To replace the U-Joint you have to remove the plastic and ultimately the bearing cap on each of the yokes. The easiest method is to go to your favorite hardware store and buy a small propane plumber’s torch (usually $20). Fire up the torch and heat up each leg of the yoke. You should start seeing the plastic stream out of the hole like toothpaste and more than likely the bearing cap will actually pop. Once the cap pops, you may need to tap or press it the rest of the way out. Repeat this until all of the caps are removed. Clean up the yoke and then install your new U-Joints. Replacement U-Joints will have clips or snap rings to hold them in.
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"If everyone is thinking alike, then no one is thinking". - Gen. George S. Patton Jr. |
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#5
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Re: 97 U-joint replacement
Thanks for that as well.
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