Can a crank sensor be replaced on a '92 without the special alignment tool?

[Sweepspear]

Just curious. I see these alignment tools cost around $600.00.
I thought they would be an inexpensive tool such as a clutch alignment tool is.

I'm still having a stalling issue after a week or 2 of no stalling at all it is acting up again, and am going to have a shop drive it with a scan tool hooked up to get a snap shot of what is happening when it stalls.

If it does turn out to be a bad crank sensor, I would rather replace it myself.
Once the old one is removed, there should be a clear indication on the block where it was located. (Clean area)
If care is taken, I don't see why it can't be done without this tool.
Right?

With the great number of these engines on the road, I can't believe shops with this tool are the only ones that can do this.

[Airjer_]

It mounts in a metal bracket. The new one may or may not come with the bracket. Mark the bracket with the location of the old one in place, then install the new one with the marks as your guide. They make a set of plastic feeler gauges that assist in the alignment of the sensor. They are well under $600 dollars!

[HotZ28]

Did you ever think about using a rubber band? Click Here for more info.
Most 2-piece sensors (pre-93) come with the sensor adjusted & locked in the bracket with the stud & Loctite on the stud threads. Theoretically, this type of configuration would not require an adjustment, however it does not hurt to check! If you break the Loctite bond on the stud, you run the risk of it moving over a period of time. In addition, more sensors are damaged from bent reluctor ring tabs, than misalignment! Last year, I replaced a CKPS a 92 PA that was installed by a very reputable shop the day before. After removing the balancer, I noticed several tabs were bent on the 18X ring. Evidently the shop never looked at the tabs! I asked the owner to explain what happened before the first CKPS was installed at the shop. He said that an idler pulley seized and the serpentine belt disintegrated and wrapped around the balancer. Since it was too late in the evening (on a weekend) we could not find a new balancer that night. I decided to use a set of digital calipers and measure the distance of each of the 18 tabs from the outer/inner hub of the balancer. I found 5 tabs that were more that .050 out of spec from the others. I used a series of 10 tabs in a row, that all measured the same distance as a reference, then carefully bent the damaged tabs to exactly the same dimension. We put it back together with the rubber band attached and all checked well. BTW, I did not break the Loctite seal on the CKPS bolt! When finished, the car started immediately and is still running perfect today!

[Sweepspear]

Originally Posted by HotZ28

Did you ever think about using a rubber band? Click Here for more info.

That's a brilliant idea!
My hats off to GMMerlin! I will definately use that tip.

And thank you once again HotZ28 for your valuable insight!

[stripe]

Just a note

We ran the code and came up with the cps and changed it.
truck ran the same. We took it to the local shop and they took it out and checked the magnet.
The new one was no good too.

If you buy another one make sure the magnet works.

Cheers
Stripe

[Sweepspear]

Originally Posted by stripe

Just a note

We ran the code and came up with the cps and changed it.
truck ran the same. We took it to the local shop and they took it out and checked the magnet.
The new one was no good too.

If you buy another one make sure the magnet works.

Cheers
Stripe

I hear ya.
I had that happen with an alternator once.

[Sweepspear]

Sheeet, that was nuthin!
The hardest part was breaking the balancer bolt loose. Which by the way does not require a 28mm socket as it says in the Buick service manual. a 15/16" does the trick.
Got my money back on that.
As far as adjusting the air gap, before removing the old one, I used a dial mic to measure the distance between the crank snout and a point on the old sensor.

Put the new one in, and everything lined up dead on.
Sure starts better. Did it solve the stalling problem? Time will tell. It behaved while test driving, but this has been a somewhat intermittant problem.

Put a block heater in it too, and changed the oil.