suspension subframe

[bmwren]

want to know if any one out there has any experience with any after market subframes for the 67-69 camero. I have been looking at Heits, fatman, morrison, speedtech and I can't decied which one of these is better. They are pretty much in the same price range.

If any one can give info on there experiences

[Genopsyde]

i really don't think any one is better than the other. they all serve the same purpose, and they all do it the same way.

[Morley]

I would look at where exactly each set connects to on the car. On the third gens you can actuall run 2 sets of SFC's at the same time depending on brand. You can run Alston's which connect at the rear inner subframe and at the subframe at the transmission hump. And the Jegsters connect at the rear outer subframe and then up under the passenger & driver floor boards. These 2 would then allow you to run 2 sets of SFC's and make the car's frame unbelieveably strong.

[flangehead99]

You want to figure out what you are going to use the car for first.
If it is going to be just a driver I would upgrade the stock sub frame with Global West A arms, bigger sway bar, disk brakes (do some surfing there are a lot of inexpensive ways to go with the disks). Use the Gulstrand mod, see below. This came out of Team Camaro.
Do a lot of research before you jump in.

The Fatmans is more pro street. Probably the best bang for your buck but it is heavier and not as high tech as DSE or AME or Chasis Works.

AME is the Pro Touring best bang with late model Corvette suspension.



CarlC
Dec 7th, 99, 03:40 PM
I performed the Guldstrand modification on my '68, along with Guldstrand slalom springs and shocks. The modification works well. I wish that some magazine would do a comparison on the Guldstrand modification vs. the spindle extension. The Guldstrand mod is no cost, but the extenders allow you to go back to stock if wish. As for the engine, you can leave it in the car. If you get to the point of having the a-arms off the car, the studs can be taken out several ways. You can grab onto the head of the bolt with vice-grips and hammer. You can make a special "L" shaped extension to attach to a slide hammer to hit the bolt on the nut end. You may even find that they are not in that tight to begin with. To make the job a bunch easier buy a Stanley hacksaw blade holder. This holder leaves 3-4 inches of the blade unsupported (sticking out the end) so you can get into tight places, and has a small hand grip as well. Costs around $10. Very tight quarters for a reciprocating saw. You will be cutting out a "U" shaped piece from the front and rear of the frame mount. Be sure to radius the corner where your two cuts intersect. I drilled a 1/4" hole inside the intersection of the cutting lines so that I ended up sawing into the edge of the hole, hence creating the radius. Sharp corners are stress risers that can lead to cracks and eventual failure so you want to awoid them. Paint the exposed steel to prevent rust. Watch out for the brake and fuel lines on the RH side. You may have to re-route the fuel line since the rear of the a-arm comes very close to the frame and fuel line. I bent my fuel line a little farther inboard and turned the clamp around to make sufficient clearance. Magazine articals say that you can grind the upper a-arm and not trim the frame. I did not like this idea because it does weaken the arm, definately not something I would like to have fail at high speeds. Once completed it is a very stealty modification. If you have any questions please feel free to fire away.

Good luck