Charge, brake, and headlight warning lights

[hibouxj]

1987 Toyoty Camry. I've read in previous postings that a charge and brake light on constantly are likely to be a bad alternator, but has anyone had the headlight warning come on too?? I recently added antifreeze and know that I overfilled. Is it possible that the overflow shorted a fuse? If so where would that be? Thanks in advance all!!

hibouxj

[somick]

I am not familiar with your particular model but doubt that antifreeze has anything to do with fuses etc. Unless you spilled it on the wiring.

In order to check your alternator you need a voltmeter. Preferably digital. Measure voltage across terminals. You suppose to get 12.4-12.6 volts when car not running. This will tell you the health of your battery.
Start the car and measure it again. Now you should get something around 14 volts. If your readings are lower that might be your alternator.

In general any automotive store will do check your system for free. Just do not go to Pep Boys. You will waste your time.


Good luck,

Sam

P.S. What do you mean by overfilling? The extra antifreeze will spill out and that may cause your problems of course.

[hibouxj]

I'm going to follow your guidance as soon as I have a few hours. As far as the antifreeze goes, that's exactly what I'm concerned about; that some may have blow out the overfill tube on the reservoir and (shorted a fuse?) The main reason that I'm suspicious of an antifreeze splash is that I can find several instances of bloggers with a charge light and the brake light coming on simultaneously, but not in conjunction with the headlight warning light.

[Mike Gerber]

The excess antifreeze probably has nothing to do with your problem. When you drive your car during a rain storm, there is plenty of rain water being blown in around your engine. This doesn't cause any fuses to blow. If it did, you wouldn't be able to drive your car when it's raining or snowing out. Your problem definitely sounds like a failing alternator. As suggested above, do the test with the digital volt/ohmeter or take the car to any auto parts store that offers free alternator and battery testing with the alternator still on the car. Call around to auto parts stores in your area and ask. One more thing; only use a digital volt/ohmeter if you are going to test this yourself, not an analog one.

Mike

[ProMan]

My 88 had the same problem. It's the alternator not charging. Which means your car is running on the battery power. If you keep driving, the car (I mean the battery) will die shortly.

The fix is easy, replace with a new alternator. That probably will cost you around $200.

If you want to save some money, the only thing you need to bring it back to life is a pair of carbon brush. You can get it from any auto parts store or hardware store. It's around $5.00/pair. But this needs some DIY and you need to take off the alternator, take off the rear cover, and do a little sodering. If you are interested, I will provide more detailed info.

[hibouxj]

Thanks for all of the great responses. Proman, yes I think I would like to try to replace the brushes myself. Would you send me the details? That kind of time is definetly worth a few hours of my time.

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[hibouxj]

I changed the alternator, the lights went out immediatly. Easy fix. I was a little suprised though in that I had to leave the belt fairly loose to keep it from squeeling. Thanks all for the help.

hibouxj

[ProMan]

Sorry I am late. Just saw your reply. But it's great to learn that the new alternator resolved your problem.

If you still have the old alternator, here is what you can do to make it a backup unit. You may need it in 10 years......

Below is what i can remember from my experience couple years ago, I believe most of it are correct.

1. take off the back cover of the alternator. You mey need to take off screws for some electronic components like voltage regulator. Should be very straight forward.

2. find 2 carbon brushes on the inside of the back cover and remove them. They should be rectangle cylinder with copper wire attached at the other end soldered to some other parts.

3. solder the old ones off and new ones on. Be sure to trim the new copper wire to proper length and keep the spring in place.

4. clean the copper contacts on the rotor where the brushes are supposed to contact.

5. install the brushes and back cover. You are done.

One trick to install the brushes and cover back is, because the brushes are spring loaded, it will extrude out and won't allow the rotor to go in between. Look at the back cover, you will find 2 holes that allow you to insert wires or tooth picks to hold the brushes inside their housing and stay clear for the rotor. After installation, dont' forget to remove the wires.