MT was RIGHT!!!

[TomB985]

Well...

I replaced my CPI a year and a half ago, when I first bought my '95 Blazer. I bought it running rough, and after some valuable advice from the members here, I replaced my CPI, and all was well! Or so I thought....

A month later, took my blazer on a 600 mile trip to OH...on the way back, it started doing it AGAIN!!! I nursed it home, took it apart, and replaced the "nut kit", and again...all was well...

But not really...My wife took the Blazer to OH a few months later, and on the way back, the thing died and they could not get it restarted...I had to drive out and tow her back, and guess what? The CPI and nut kit were the culprits...

So, I swapped both bad parts out under warranty, and once again...all was well....

Until NOW!!!

It's doing the SAME f*%&^$ING THING AGAIN!!! All parts were GP Sorenson, purchased at Advance auto parts, with the exception of the "nut kit", which was purchased at NAPA....

Now, I have to blow another $400...but I've learned my lesson...goin' to the dealer tomorrow.....

[MT-2500]

Tom thanks for sharing your experience with aftermarket parts.
Sounds like you have had more than your share of problems with them.
The dealer is not the only place to get AC-delco oem type parts.
Some parts place also have AC-Delco parts and cheaper than dealer.
Always check around.
On the nut kit and CPI injector unit what is going bad on them?
Leaking or other problems?
Another problem I have run into on the single injector cpi unit is the inside cover wiring going to the injector.
Check it real close to.
Good Luck

[Leeann94astro]

I've heard good things about these people, and they have the whole kit for $300:

http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm


I haven't tried them, but lots of good feedback on other Blazer forums about their stuff.

[TomB985]

Honestly, I've never been able to find a leak when I tear the thing down. I always see where there's moisture, and go from there. I've had people cycle the ignition on and off to pressurize the system, and never located the source of the moisture...it's been like this every time.

However, seems that every time I replace the parts...everything works great! Then, whenever it happens again, I see moisture again, but in a different spot, indicating a different leak.

This time is no different, with the leak somewhere on the driver's side front of the manifold...the old washed out area on the passenger side from the first CPI problem I've had is dry as a bone, so it's not the regulator...I'm thinking it has to be either the bad "nut kit" or the CPI body is leaking...

At this point, I'm gonna probably go to the dealer and pick up the nut kit, put it in and see if it works...

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by TomB985

Honestly, I've never been able to find a leak when I tear the thing down. I always see where there's moisture, and go from there. I've had people cycle the ignition on and off to pressurize the system, and never located the source of the moisture...it's been like this every time.

However, seems that every time I replace the parts...everything works great! Then, whenever it happens again, I see moisture again, but in a different spot, indicating a different leak.

This time is no different, with the leak somewhere on the driver's side front of the manifold...the old washed out area on the passenger side from the first CPI problem I've had is dry as a bone, so it's not the regulator...I'm thinking it has to be either the bad "nut kit" or the CPI body is leaking...

At this point, I'm gonna probably go to the dealer and pick up the nut kit, put it in and see if it works...

Kinda odd.
The regulator or nut kit fails you usually can see leakage when pressure primed up.
When it quits or acts up does the fuel pressure have a fast leak down or pressure fuel get off?
Is the injector plug in and wiring good and tight and not burnt
I have had some wiring to injectors act up and make them quit at times.
I would also replace the injector wiring inside cover to injector unit.
To be on safe side.
Good Luck

[TomB985]

The symptoms were just about identical to every other time I've had this problem...engine runs great when I'm on the throttle, but off the throttle and at idle, it stumbles, misses, and dies.

I replaced the nut kit today and it's back to running great again...seems that I was fortunate that it wasn't the CPI... Never have replaced the wiring harness under the plenum, will be sure to do that if and when this ever gives me trouble. It's NEVER had a tough time running under throttle...it always seems to be just at idle and with a closed throttle.

Only has 92,000 original miles, too...

And while I'm here...my front pinion seal is leaking pretty good, and I can't seem to get the pinion flange nut off! It's rusted on there pretty good, the shop manual refers to a special tool J-8614-01...and I'm NOT paying $300 for a one time use tool...is there any other good way to hold that thing still?

Thanks!

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by TomB985

The symptoms were just about identical to every other time I've had this problem...engine runs great when I'm on the throttle, but off the throttle and at idle, it stumbles, misses, and dies.

I replaced the nut kit today and it's back to running great again...seems that I was fortunate that it wasn't the CPI... Never have replaced the wiring harness under the plenum, will be sure to do that if and when this ever gives me trouble. It's NEVER had a tough time running under throttle...it always seems to be just at idle and with a closed throttle.

Only has 92,000 original miles, too...

And while I'm here...my front pinion seal is leaking pretty good, and I can't seem to get the pinion flange nut off! It's rusted on there pretty good, the shop manual refers to a special tool J-8614-01...and I'm NOT paying $300 for a one time use tool...is there any other good way to hold that thing still?

Thanks!

A good big pipe wrench and a pipe for cheater bar on handle.
Or a Good place for a heavey duty 1/2 in. air wrench.
Good luck