Plymouth Voyager transmission Problem Please Help!!

bethanyam · #1 09-05-2008, 03:32 PM

I have a 1998 Plymouth voyager. 3.3L engine. with a 4 speed transmission.
I have NEVER had any trouble with the transmission.
Saturday - Kept going into "limp mode" about 1 mile from home
Immediatly changed fluid, gasket, screen, ect. (used atf not mercon or whatever it's call) Hubby drove about 5 miles No problems.
Sunday - I drove 15 miles and went into limp mode again. This time the speedometer was flopping all around. Would go to 100 then to 30 then to 0 and back to 100.
I took the van home and parked it.
Wednesday - We put in a new output speed sensor. the only difference is now the speedometer does NOT work at all.
Thursday - put in a new input speed sensor. NO change.
I'm going to carefully and slowly drive to parts store to have it scanned today. The local garage wants $60.00 just to scan it. I just don't have the funds to go there right now and I don't really have the money to keep playing a guessing game either. According to the readout I get today does anyone have any ideas on what could possibly cause this? There is no hesitation, jerking, ect when going into park, reverse, or drive it just does not change out of second gear when you speed up. Other than replacing or rebuilding the transmission the only other things I can think of that might cause this is the transmission control solenoid or the transmission control module. One more question. DOes the computer have to be reset after adding the sensors to "pick" them up? THANK YOU TO ANY AND ALL ANSWERS.
Bethany

RIP · #2 09-05-2008, 06:00 PM

Autozone and other stores will scan your van for free. If you can't get it there, short of using a scanner, you can cycle the key from off to on 3 times, leaving it on (not start). Now count the flashes of the service engine soon light*. The combination of flashes indicate the MIL code stored in the engine computer. All codes have two digits, each divided by a pause. You'll see a longer pause between multiple codes. Should end with a code 55.

Make sure there is no difference meaning contact spacing is identicle between the old and new sensors connectors. There is a TSB out for mismatched contacts on new sensors for late 90s vans.

* or read the 4 digit "P" code on the odometer readout if you have a digital dash

bethanyam · #3 09-05-2008, 07:31 PM

Ok went to advanced auto and it came back with 5 codes.
P0731 Gear 1 ratio incorrect
P0500 Vehicle speed sensor a malfuntion
P0700 transmission control system malfuntion

Also this time after a few miles the odometer stopped working, my gas hand stopped working(it did start back) and my air conditioner stopped blowing cold air (it started back) and my temerature gage shot up to the "h" and When I turned the air off it went right back down to halfway. It did not go up anymore even when I turned the air back on. I got out and checked the radiator (I didn't open it of course) but nothing smelled hot or was spewing or anything. i'm going to let my husband read your response to so he can check those things you mentioned out. Thank you very much for your help and will appreciate any other advice, ideas, even comments you may have about the vehicle.
Bethany

peterjon1 · #4 09-05-2008, 08:13 PM

changing the output speed sensor, I would guess that either the new sensor is bad, or there is a broken wire in the sensor circuit, as it went from bad to worse after changing the sensor.
Guess # 2: The oddness with the gauge readings could be due to a problem with the BCM. Pull the IOD fuse in the power distribution center under the hood for a few minutes. This will reboot the BCM computer, which can fix many odd things. You will probably lose radio presets doing this, FYI.
Also, lots of things can be caused by a marginal battery. How old is yours?
**When you did the transmission fluid, you did use ATF +4 (or +3) didn't you? Absolutely no Dexron or Mercon?**

peterjon1 · #5 09-05-2008, 08:16 PM

Sorry, the first part of my answer above got lost. Started out as -
Guess #1: Since the problem with the speedometer went from bad to worse when ---

littlebitofinsanit · #6 09-05-2008, 10:31 PM

to whom it may concern

ihad the same problem in 95 voyager first check wires under battery they are tranny if you check tranny fluid and no metal it is the ecm about 125 tom livenberger dodge hanover that problem was about 200 bucks all said and done the program it solenoids also then drive slow 100 miles to program shifting is expensive but 4 spd have this problem eventualy

bethanyam · #7 09-07-2008, 10:39 AM

Ok another question. When reading all the other posts I checked the fluid that hubby put into the van, when he change the fluid. The parts store had sold him plain ATF. Well we got our money back and we got ATF+4. He's changing it back right now. the other aft was in there for a week and driven 3 times...not very far other than the first time when we thought it was fixed. Could this have cause all the other problems? Thanks to anyone who may have any answers I can use.
Bethany

angus10 · #8 09-07-2008, 11:55 AM

When you change the fluid you are not really changing it all! There is some left in various other places and the TC. So the wrong fluid has has circulated throughout the tranny. By droping the pan and changing it again there will still be some of the wrong fluid left. Might not hurt it too bad, but I would change it again in a week or so to be safe, to really get it dilluted with the ATF4.

BTW! What fluid exactly was he sold the first time?

bethanyam · #9 09-07-2008, 12:12 PM

The bottle just said ATF it was advanced auto's store brand. It said "suitable for dodges" on the bottle.

angus10 · #10 09-07-2008, 12:33 PM

Thats what I was wondering! At least it said for dodges. If it was dexron or mercron things would be worse. The ATF4 should dilute what was in there enough for there to be no long term problem.

angus10 · #11 09-07-2008, 12:34 PM

And as what was stated above , I would look into a wire prob or defective speed sensor.

bethanyam · #12 09-07-2008, 12:39 PM

With both the input and output sensors having been replaced I'm wondering if it could be the transmission control module...i think that is what it is called. The replacement part is $160.00 do you have any idea if the old one is "testable" when taken out to see if it is really bad. I've also had someone tell me that I can buy that at a junkyard a lot cheaper, but then again I worry about "how" to tell if it is a good part. I have bought things like an alternator (not for this vehicle) at the junk yard and it saved me tons of money and lasted for years. thanks for all of your time and help.

Bethany

angus10 · #13 09-07-2008, 12:50 PM

Junk yard is cheapest way, and the ones I go to if it doesn't work you have 7 days to return it.

diggerdon · #14 09-07-2008, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bethanyam

I have a 1998 Plymouth voyager. 3.3L engine. with a 4 speed transmission.
I have NEVER had any trouble with the transmission.
Saturday - Kept going into "limp mode" about 1 mile from home
Immediatly changed fluid, gasket, screen, ect. (used atf not mercon or whatever it's call) Hubby drove about 5 miles No problems.
Sunday - I drove 15 miles and went into limp mode again. This time the speedometer was flopping all around. Would go to 100 then to 30 then to 0 and back to 100.
I took the van home and parked it.
Wednesday - We put in a new output speed sensor. the only difference is now the speedometer does NOT work at all.
Thursday - put in a new input speed sensor. NO change.
I'm going to carefully and slowly drive to parts store to have it scanned today. The local garage wants $60.00 just to scan it. I just don't have the funds to go there right now and I don't really have the money to keep playing a guessing game either. According to the readout I get today does anyone have any ideas on what could possibly cause this? There is no hesitation, jerking, ect when going into park, reverse, or drive it just does not change out of second gear when you speed up. Other than replacing or rebuilding the transmission the only other things I can think of that might cause this is the transmission control solenoid or the transmission control module. One more question. DOes the computer have to be reset after adding the sensors to "pick" them up? THANK YOU TO ANY AND ALL ANSWERS.
Bethany

My wife's 1999 Chrysler T&C had a similar problem and it was due to the Output Speed Sensor failing. In her case the speedometer went to zero and stayed there but if your sensor fails differently the speedometer would "flop around"' This sensor is on the transmission straight below the battery. I had to remove the air cleaner stuff to access it from the top looking down. The part cost $27.09 at the Chrysler dealer here in Virginia. It probably wouldn't cost much for labor to have it replaced. Big sigh of relief, huh?

PS: This fix was found as a reply to someone else in 2007, so I didn't come up with it - just used it.

diggerdon · #15 09-07-2008, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bethanyam

With both the input and output sensors having been replaced I'm wondering if it could be the transmission control module...i think that is what it is called. The replacement part is $160.00 do you have any idea if the old one is "testable" when taken out to see if it is really bad. I've also had someone tell me that I can buy that at a junkyard a lot cheaper, but then again I worry about "how" to tell if it is a good part. I have bought things like an alternator (not for this vehicle) at the junk yard and it saved me tons of money and lasted for years. thanks for all of your time and help.

Bethany

You may have gotten a bad output speed sensor or it is not connected properly.

Remove the output speed sensor and check across the two pins with an ohmmeter. If it has some resistance, it is probably OK - but if wide open or infinite resistance (opposite from 0) it is bad. This would result in a zero speed reading on your speedometer. Since the car thinks it isn't moving it will never go to a higher gear.

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