Preparing for Hondata tuning...please read

[Sh4rky]

I’d like to get a Hondata standalone later this Spring and tune it, but first I have a few questions:
Currently I have a ‘96 Integra GS-R (OBDII) with a Drag3 (T3/4) turbo setup and dropped compression to w/ 9:1 JE Pistons and Eagle rods, I also just purchased (not installed) Skunk2 cam gears. I already have a decent Ignition setup, I think all I need is Fuel and Engine management.
If you care you can read more about my setup here: http://sh4rky.home.attbi.com/about/car_mods.html
I ran at the track (my first time) with high 13s - using stock (4 year old) tires, 8psi of boost, STOCK ignition and crappy fuel setup (inline pump and FMU), and of course - UNTUNED!

To get to the point, my main problem is that I want to get a Hondata system soon.
My goal is to have a street driven, around 300 WHP, mid-to-low 12sec car, with 10–15psi of boost and with a good fuel economy.
Is that possible with my setup, or am I asking for too much?

I understand that the things I need to get in order to successfully fulfill my goal are:

Hondata s200 w/ boost option
OBD1 ECU (Such as P28 or P72 – which one is best?)
OBD2 -to- OBD1 Harness
550cc Injectors (DSM ones or maybe RC?)
Walbro 255L Intank Pump (or other?)
Maybe a Fuel Rail (or is it not necessary?)

Am I missing anything? Anything you can recommend? Any other parts, upgrades, or service I should do on my car before I come to tune? Point me to the right direction please….

Also, how much does the tuning costs? I was thinking of going to Payn Tech over in Michigan, but it's a 6 hour drive from Chicago, Illinois
Any other Hondata tuners by Chicagoland area?


Thanks,
Sharky

[GSR]

so youre semi-built. stock seeves?

stock ignition is fine up to +350hp so yore cool there.

300hp is very feasible...i'm lookng for that on stock internals @ 153k miles
that should be a mid 12 with decent traction (decent meaning <2.1 60ft)
i'd recommend tuning for 10psi on the street, 15 at the track on race gas just so you donthave to pull much timing if any.

fuel ecomony wil be dependant on your style of driving. for example my turbo doesnt spool unti 3500-3800rpm. This means if i drive conservatve and shift at 3k its as if it was stock. i believe you have a t04b compressor housing, a little smaller, so it may spool a few 100 rpms faster. highway mpg will be 1-2 higher than stock sinceyour engine doesnt struggle s much to "breathe" the same amount of air...it becomes more efficient.

unless you plan to swap out you intake manifold go for the p72. a p28 wont open the short runner butterfly's.

DSM injectors are 450cc and are peak & hold type so you're better off with aftermarket saturated/high impedance. give viren a call @ 469-438-4621 (vsmotorsports.com), he can hook you up with a nice price (less than $300, new) on delphi injectors machined to fit your rail. they're rated by lb...conversion is 11*lb rating=cc rating...so 55lb would be 605cc. rc's are overpriced, rebadged/stamped msd's

fuel pump= walbro or holley, either will work

fuel rail not necessary

whoever you choose for your tuner make sure its someone you can trust. you'll be talking to him alot. prices vary, somewhere around $400-600

look if youre interested...I have also have a 96gsr converted to obd1 (94-95 p72+harness) but now i'm looking into aem's ems. They have a part # for obd2's and since i still have my stock ecu I figured I'd use that and sell my obd1 setup. give me an offer

[Sh4rky]

Thanks for the input!

"unless you plan to swap out you intake manifold go for the p72"
What's going to happen with p28? Will I lose power?
Are all ECUs for both trannies, or do u have to specifically get a manual tranny OBD1 ECU?
Also, will I gain any power if I just swap my OBD2 for an OBD1 ecu?

Sharky

[GSR]

gsr engines use a dual stage runner manifold design. long runners are active up until 5800rpm when the butterflies open for the short runers. this gives better midrange torque.

civic's use single runners, the secondaries wont open=slow after 5800rpm. yes you will lose power

theecu has to be for a manual tranny

obd1's usually make more power. they also dont use the 2nd o2 sensor so you can run a test pipe wit no CEL. if you plan to go hondata you will need obd1