2000 Taurus wagon won't start

[dontremember]

2000 Taurus wagon, average mileage, no wrecks, no fancy parts...

My wife was out running some errands this morning, starting and stopping at least three times. The last time she tried to start, nothing happened. The courtesy light comes on, windows go up and down, etc, so there's battery power, but the engine won't start. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but apparently it doesn't even turn over. No whirring, nothing. Dunno about solenoid clicking.

A helpful person wasn't able to jump start it for her, but he put his battery in and it started up OK. Apparently the engine died when he disconnected his battery, so he believes the alternator is dead. Right now the car is being hauled home.

Before I go out and spend $200 on an alternator, 1) is that likely to be the faulty part; and 2) what can I try that would rule out anything else??

I've got a standard Radio Shack multimeter and miscellaneous tools. I also have an OBD diagnostic tool *somewhere*, but I've moved house since I last saw it... If I can dig that up, I'll see if I can persuade it to tell me anything useful.

Thanks.

[spytearbite]

Originally Posted by dontremember

A helpful person... put his battery in and it started up OK. Apparently the engine died when he disconnected his battery, so he believes the alternator is dead.

Dead battery says it all. He lit your car right up with his. That means all systems good to go up to the alternator. So, he has a fresh battery. You have a total loss battery is down in volts but can still beep the horn or move glass up and down.

My guess would be a new alternator and forget that battery is they never come back unless you slow charge it up to the rating. Then again, how about the internal plates being chemically reacted are deteriorating battery internals being they where working hot and hard is buckle the plates is separated integrity.

[shorod]

Use your multimeter to monitor the battery voltage with all systems off. You should see something higher than 11.8 volts. Now monitor the battery voltage wtih the headlights on. You should still see something higher than 11.5 volts. Now try measuring the voltage when attempting to start the car. If the voltage drops to something lower than 10.2 volts, that battery is weak or the starter is drawing huge amounts of current, in which case the positive battery cable should physically heat up.

-Rod

[dontremember]

Originally Posted by shorod

Use your multimeter to monitor the battery voltage with all systems off. You should see something higher than 11.8 volts. Now monitor the battery voltage wtih the headlights on. You should still see something higher than 11.5 volts. Now try measuring the voltage when attempting to start the car. If the voltage drops to something lower than 10.2 volts, that battery is weak or the starter is drawing huge amounts of current, in which case the positive battery cable should physically heat up.

-Rod

With the ignition off, I get just over 12 volts. With the headlights on, battery voltage drops to roughly zero...

It wouldn't start when jumped to my truck, so I disconnected the Taurus battery in case that was dragging the voltage down. Jumped it again and it *still* wouldn't start.

What I'm hearing, which I wasn't told before, is a loud clicking, about 2 per second, that sounds like it's coming from under the front of the engine. Is that about where the starter is??

Thanks!

[shorod]

Yeah, sounds like you've either got a bad connection or a weak starter relay/solenoid. Often the continued clicking is indicative of low voltage, so I'd suggest you closely inspect all wiring for the battery & starter.

-Rod

[spytearbite]

Yes, your clicking is the solenoid trying to lock an amp or two. You have 12V on the surface, but once you open the faucet, it trickles out and flow is not normal.

So, bottom line: The battery failed for lack of A/C current to convert to DC to keep the battery charged. So, again, take the alternator off, bring it to a auto store that can show it charging for you and then say thanks, bit the bullet and buy new OEM or suffer the used rebuild that keeps you rebuilding the door hinges on the auto store you bought your, or say, you returned your 4th rebuilt alternator.

All that money going back and forth would have been better spent on the OEM alternator I think you need to verify you have a charging system working properly.

[dontremember]

Originally Posted by spytearbite

Yes, your clicking is the solenoid trying to lock an amp or two. You have 12V on the surface, but once you open the faucet, it trickles out and flow is not normal.

Even though the Taurus still won't start with its own battery completely disconnected and power is supplied via jumper cables from my truck?? With or without the truck engine running??

[dontremember]

Originally Posted by shorod

Yeah, sounds like you've either got a bad connection or a weak starter relay/solenoid. Often the continued clicking is indicative of low voltage, so I'd suggest you closely inspect all wiring for the battery & starter.

-Rod

Thanks. I'll give that a go this evening, it it quits raining...