Loosing Coolant "Oringinal Gaskets"

[Forscythe87]

I'm loosing coolant at about 1/2" off the resevoir bottle 1-1.5 month. At the time being im loosing it very slowly.

I changed my coolant a while back and properly bled everything, so I've ruled out air in the system.

I was reading threads and came across a post about lifter noise being caused by a intake gasket being bad. Now, im not jumping to conclusions but as most of you know, I recently developed a tick that i've narrowed down to a piston slap or noisy lifters with the help of everyone here.

My dexcool is clean, my oil does not appear to be contaminated, and the exhaust coming out the back is clean.

So here's the question....

I am pretty good behind a wrench and have detailed instructions on doing the gaskets.

Should I just go ahead and swap em? Or should I take other means of diagnosing a leak.

Apart from compression testing, whats a surefire way to diagnose it?

I have classes for the next couple weeks, would it be safe to drive if im leaking small amounts into my engine (until i swap out the gaskets).

Theres no visable coolant leaks .

Thanks in advance. You guys are life savers. Ive had lots of problems with the car (mostly minor) and cant afford anything new, so I gotta fix what I have.

[maxwedge]

If the oil is not contaminated you should be ok for a short period of time and short drives, make sure the coolant has not reached the oil here.

[Forscythe87]

Been investigating more into this.

Some old timers told me a good way to diagnose it is to hold a flame to the oil and it will pop.

I did this and no bubbles.


So to test the theory. I mixed a drop of coolant with a decent amount of oil, and whata you know it popped.

Any know if this is a good way if diagnosing, as it appears to be somewhat true.

Im thinking of sending in an oil sample to blackstone before I decide to pay to get the gaskets done. Smart?


I had my water pump replaced not too long ago. Its not leaking from that or the weep hole.

Any ideas?

I wont be doing a lot of driving (maybe 80 miles a week max).

[maxwedge]

Replacing the 3.1 gaskets is almost a must, at any rate, the lab test will show if coolant is in the oil but so what you must do the gaskets and change the oil anyway, no? By the time you get back the results you could have damaged the bearings, drain the oil now, the first thing to come out would be coolant. You can easily see if coolant is in the oil as they really do not mix, water is what can be hard to see in small amounts.

[Forscythe87]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

Replacing the 3.1 gaskets is almost a must, at any rate, the lab test will show if coolant is in the oil but so what you must do the gaskets and change the oil anyway, no? By the time you get back the results you could have damaged the bearings, drain the oil now, the first thing to come out would be coolant. You can easily see if coolant is in the oil as they really do not mix, water is what can be hard to see in small amounts.

I guess you're right. I'm just hating the idea of doing it if they arent going bad yet. Should I just do the LIM or also do the heads while I'm down in there?

Which gaskets should I pick up? (my mech requires I get the parts anyways)

Still haven't decided if I'm going to do it myself, with the instructions I found and a Haynes manual it seems like I can, I have all the tools.

What would you rate the job on a scale of 1-10 (if time isnt a factor).


Ive been driving around like this for 3 months. So hopefully I haven't caused damage. Im not driving around anymore fo now as my PCV valve elbow broke and could only find one online.

[maxwedge]

I do not know your skill level, naturally, for a 45 year car repair guy, I found there is lots of " stuff" to remove to do this, may take a pic for a reminder of what goes where, get the GM updated kit with the bolts, or Fel Pro's. Watch the different length pushrods also. I'd say a 7 for the avg. dyer.

[Forscythe87]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

I do not know your skill level, naturally, for a 45 year car repair guy, I found there is lots of " stuff" to remove to do this, may take a pic for a reminder of what goes where, get the GM updated kit with the bolts, or Fel Pro's. Watch the different length pushrods also. I'd say a 7 for the avg. dyer.

Ill have a go at it. I found several detailed walktrhoughs and despite the time involved I think I'm pretty sure ill be able too. Worse case scenario I call my mech (a friend) to help me finish. Gives me a good excuse to buy a tool or two im lacking.

Thanks for your help.

[idahotruckertim]

Originally Posted by Forscythe87

I guess you're right. I'm just hating the idea of doing it if they arent going bad yet. Should I just do the LIM or also do the heads while I'm down in there?

Which gaskets should I pick up? (my mech requires I get the parts anyways)

Still haven't decided if I'm going to do it myself, with the instructions I found and a Haynes manual it seems like I can, I have all the tools.

What would you rate the job on a scale of 1-10 (if time isnt a factor).


Ive been driving around like this for 3 months. So hopefully I haven't caused damage. Im not driving around anymore fo now as my PCV valve elbow broke and could only find one online.

I had a similar problem with my PCV valve elbow - I cudnt find one easily so I just went a bought an 8mm spark plug boot without the wires an used that for the elbow and it works like a dream - final cost was less than $2