Using Gunze Sangyo Top Coat 501

[Tibi Keke]

Hi,
I am new in this forum.
I'm bulding a Mclaren Mercedes MP 4/20 from Revell AG.
My plan is to seal all the decals from the body with Gunze Sangyo Top Coat 501 but i'm afraid that i will get orange peel over the painting. I tryed last night on a peace of painted plastic to apply this Clear Coat and i'm not happy. Even if the Spray can is exactly like the Tamiya Spraycans, the result is very diferent!
Becouse i don't have experience in Car Modelling (more experineced in airplain-modelling)i would like to ask somebody who already use'it how can i get a nice finish. Or if i apply 3 - 4 coats and the surface still have orange peel is possible to get a smooth surface with Tamiya 3 step Compound??
Please help!
Thank you in advance for any answer!

[gionc]

You wouldn't be worried by orange peel. Also with TS13 (and normally with any TS can) you will get OP, you'll achieve a better finish decanting, thinning and spraying with a good airbrush, ever with a bit of OP.

I know 2 kind of orange peel: the first is this one: you got a perfect mirror shine surface after a couple wetcoat, after a couple days of curing you're getting OP: normal, is becouse the solvent is curing.

The second one is if you're spraying with the airbrush with a wrong thinning/pressure raio: the paint become dry before touch the surface, or, like in my case with TS13, you're doing some "dry layers" or mist coats, in other words when you're worry the paint would affect underlayers or decals, you do thin layers with a "satin" look.

Anyway: don't worry, all is just perfect

Sand down OP with a great 2000 grit wet under running water ( I love 3M paper, I fell better than tamy and other stuff I tried), than use Micromeshes: 3200/3600/4000 leave troo many scratches to me: I prefere a perfect 2000 grit job and jump on the 6000grit, you must work a lot with it: just until you start to feel less (or never) friction and the mesh start to slide
Also important is the sanding direction: 2000 grit do a fast job, so you'll choose a less confortable direction (for example when you got narrow surfaces like often over the belt line or on fenders: sand 2000 perpendicular to surfaces, so you'll sand 6000 (much longer work) in a more confortable direction followed by some job with "random direction". (Ok sorry for my english, I'll do a scheme if it's unclair). There's a great tutorial around done by Hiroaki, with plenty explanations about sanding and sanding directions, his nick should be Hirofk, try a search by thread started.

Than follow the 6000 with the 12000, ever till you feel the mesh sliding (do you meant those noise? gne gne, gniii, like with a wet cloth on a glass ) LOL

At this point the job... may be also finished.., yes the result would be oki.
A couple of Fine Tamy compound would level any reflection and any minor imperfection, than wax it. I love those waxes that become white dryiing, than you remove them and they fill any minor scratch.. also with Tamy wax you may do something, and more it has the better smell .D delicious, never drunk...

[Tibi Keke]

Thank`s for answer Gio!
Did you use this clear coat from Gunze? I already used Tamiya TS 13 direkt from the spraycan. I like this Clear Coat but is dangerous over decals. I already distoyed in the past some decals. That's why i searched something what is not agressive and have simillar results.
After my tests yesterday i'm not satisfied!

[sjelic]

the thing, as Gio said, is that with spray can the result is very tricky. To save decals you need mist coats, few of them in 5 minutes frames and then you are in problem because with mist coats from spray can you get very rough end result. Gunze in my opinion is not bad, tried it some time ago, it is not as bad for decals as Tamiya, but straight from can can give a bit hard OP effect.
If you have micromesh clothes then you are in no trouble.
I would do as this
decals, few mist coats, followed by a bit heavier coat, let it dry over night, sand with 4000 grid micromesh, specially very rough areas with special care over decals not to damage them. Wash it well and then clear again, one or two mist coats followed by few wet ones.
Spray is tricky because it lets to much to quickly so you need to do it in short bursts, always following direction of spraying (start burst before model and end it after it), with swift motion and relatively close to the model to avoid air drying drops.
In the end you will have OP again, but it is very hard to get mirror finish without sanding/polishing, I will not say impossible but I never got it
If you can decant it in AB then it will be much easier for you, or just buy some 2K clear.

[Tibi Keke]

Hi Sasa,
I have a problem! Please tell me were can i buy this Micromesh clothes on Internet? For this projekt i will try the Gunze produkt, for the next one i will buy the 2K clear.

[sjelic]

Originally Posted by Tibi Keke

Hi Sasa,
I have a problem! Please tell me were can i buy this Micromesh clothes on Internet? For this projekt i will try the Gunze produkt, for the next one i will buy the 2K clear.

In US with MicroMark http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=80939

Or in Europe with Hiroboy
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=1974

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Is there orange peel in the paint under the clear? B-501 sprays a bit differently than TS-13 but it's safer over decals and dries to a harder/slicker shine. The smoother the base coats, the smoother the clear, and decals usually have a bit of texture and B-501 shrinks a lot as it dries. Requires a bit more polishing effort, but it's fantastic paint. It can be decanted and shot through the airbrush; use either Mr. Thinner or Tamiya lacquer thinner as necessary to get it to flow.

If you find the Micromesh, you can cut the final clearcoat with 2400/3600/4000/6000 and then graduate to the three Tamiya compounds and you should have good results.

[Tibi Keke]

Hi guys, i already sprayed yesterday 2 mistcoats and 1 wet coat of Mr. Gunze Top Coat 501. Like in my test, i got OP but not so strong like on my test two days ago. @ZoomZoom MX-5 your right. The B-501 sprays diferent and when it drys shine better then Tamiya TS 13! But Tamiya lays much better on the surface and don't show OP efect! I will let the body to dry 3 - 4 days and i will put one or maybe two wet coats again.
I need to have more layers to be shore that i don't destroy the decals when i will sanding and polish the body!
[IMG]file:///C:/DOKUME%7E1/HP_ADM%7E1/LOKALE%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOKUME%7E1/HP_ADM%7E1/LOKALE%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]

[sjelic]

Originally Posted by Tibi Keke

Hi guys, i already sprayed yesterday 2 mistcoats and 1 wet coat of Mr. Gunze Top Coat 501. Like in my test, i got OP but not so strong like on my test two days ago. @ZoomZoom MX-5 your right. The B-501 sprays diferent and when it drys shine better then Tamiya TS 13! But Tamiya lays much better on the surface and don't show OP efect! I will let the body to dry 3 - 4 days and i will put one or maybe two wet coats again.
I need to have more layers to be shore that i don't destroy the decals when i will sanding and polish the body!
[IMG]file:///C:/DOKUME%7E1/HP_ADM%7E1/LOKALE%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOKUME%7E1/HP_ADM%7E1/LOKALE%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]

You need to upload picture somewhere on internet and then paste URL
I hate it to but...

[Tibi Keke]

Yes, i know now. This forum is a littlebit different but is not so bad.
Is importent to share from experience or to be informed ( like me ).
Sasa, now that you write to me, please tell me, the clear 2K harm decals or is safe to work with?

[sjelic]

Originally Posted by Tibi Keke

Yes, i know now. This forum is a littlebit different but is not so bad.
Is importent to share from experience or to be informed ( like me ).
Sasa, now that you write to me, please tell me, the clear 2K harm decals or is safe to work with?

More or less safe, I never got any problems and I add a lot of thinner (50% clear/hardener mix and 50% thinner), just make few first light coats, just to be sure.