HELP!! engine dies on interstate

[79bluebird]

driving on interstate car dies, will not start back up, after 5 min it starts up rus 3-5 miles dies again same thing over and over till we reach destination next day starts up drive 120 miles back home no problems monthes later went on 800 mile trip no problems monthes later again then travel again about 100-120 miles almost there does it again dies 5min later starts up 3-5 miles dies again get to destination next day drive home no problems this has happened a few times

i have changed fuel filter did not help

seems like it may have been hot outside (not car) and below 1/2 tank gas when it happens but not 100% sure

ckeck engine does not come on so no codes in stored in memory

[danielsatur]

1) What year + how many miles are on this TC?
2) Are you on sched for routine maint?
Example: Plugs + wires

3) Get a free Load Test on your battery @ Local Parts Store,your fuel pump needs
juice!

It almost sounds like you got a Ping Pong ball in the Gas Tank!

I would be looking for a fuel pump relay,or a electric fuel pump that maybe going bad.

MCGIVER

[79bluebird]

mcgiver

92 tc has around 100k and plugs and wires was recently changed as wel
car is my parents but im thinking of buying it if i can figure it out

thanks paul

[danielsatur]

1991 OBDI system isn't as smart as an OBDII,it maybe a little more
work in troubleshooting.

The more tools and info can really help to diagnose the problem.

Next time the car dies and won't start try spraying some starting fluid in
Air Intake and it if starts,its a fuel type problem.

MCGIVER

[Towncar]

.... I would be looking for a fuel pump relay,or a electric fuel pump that maybe going bad ....

Sound advice. Beginning fuel pump problems are tough to diagnose, especially while their intermittent. You'll need a good fuel pressure gauge connected and in view always in order to 'see' the problem.

If you really like the car, buy it from your folks.. but don't try to make it something it's not, if you like Jeeps.. get one of those.

[79bluebird]

thanks i will probably get the car my wife and i love big cars now that is all we have had for several years now someone else told me to carry starting fluid and and try that also too check plug wire to see if it is getting fire
It doen't sound like a major problem just may take a little wile to narrow down and diagnose, RIGHT??? thanks and keep the good info comming
thans paul

[kodgerbill]

Originally Posted by 79bluebird

driving on interstate car dies, will not start back up, after 5 min it starts up rus 3-5 miles dies again same thing over and over till we reach destination next day starts up drive 120 miles back home no problems monthes later went on 800 mile trip no problems monthes later again then travel again about 100-120 miles almost there does it again dies 5min later starts up 3-5 miles dies again get to destination next day drive home no problems this has happened a few times

Sounds like my '97 TC, Paul, except that mine does not "die". It will just "shut down" for a few seconds and shifts into the next lower gear.
Like yours, it may happen in ten minutes or not happen in two hours.

My "check engine" light test came back as a bad rear oxygen sensor. I spoke with an old-timer at a Ford dealership who said it was possible the sensor was causing this. He indicated that the tail pipe might be really black because it was running to rich. Well, the tail pipe is as clean as a new one...
can't even get a white cloth dirty. What he said would make more sense if it were a pre-cat sensor, but the rear one????????

I have purchased a fuel filter, but haven't put it on yet. May do it later today if I can get in the mood (smile).

I'll report if there are any changes when I do. I did replace the air filter, but that didn't help. It is getting good mileage, so one wouldn't think it is running too rich. I still can't see how the rear oxygen sensor could cause the problem.

Regards,

Jim

[kodgerbill]

Originally Posted by Towncar

Beginning fuel pump problems are tough to diagnose, especially while their intermittent. You'll need a good fuel pressure gauge connected and in view always in order to 'see' the problem.

Speaking of Fuel Pressure Gauges.....

Isn't there a valve or some sort of connector under the hood where one can handily hook up a gauge/tester?

I'm thinking that may be the problem I'm having with my '97.

Thanks,

Jim

[Kitt1993]

It on the fuel rail on the passenger side. Looks like a tire valve stem but metal.

Didn't I say to check the fuel pressure already?

B

[kodgerbill]

Originally Posted by Kitt1993

It on the fuel rail on the passenger side. Looks like a tire valve stem but metal.

Thanks. So it seems quite easy to check.......with a gauge.

It would seem that I need a gauge that I can view all the time (wasn't it you who said that?) since my car only shuts down whenever it pleases (smile). So when it shuts down on the highway, I can take a look at the gauge and see it the fuel pressure has dropped way down.

It does spit and sputter, though, when you try to give it too much fuel when idling. You have to "nurse it along".

Some of these things are so interrelated it's hard to narrow down! One guy who ran a code on it said that a faulty oxygen sensor could cause it to act like, and give a code, for something else. Know what I mean? So if a faulty oxygen sensor gave it orders to "lean out" it would cause it to act like it wasn't getting enough fuel, when it "was" getting just enough BEFORE the sensor gave the order. Make sense?

I'm gonna take it to my mechanic Wednesday and we'll try to figure what's happening with it. Pristine with only 88k and runs like a fine watch.....except for this one problem.

Thanks,

Jim

[rhandwor]

I've had a lot of problems with the module on the side of the distributor heating up and shutting off the motor on the 5 Liter engines. Advance auto and Auto Zone will test these free if you take it into the store.
I've had problems with the pickup in the distributor shutting off the engine.

[kodgerbill]

Originally Posted by rhandwor

I've had a lot of problems with the module on the side of the distributor heating up and shutting off the motor on the 5 Liter engines. Advance auto and Auto Zone will test these free if you take it into the store.
I've had problems with the pickup in the distributor shutting off the engine.

Thanks, I appreciate your input.

I had Auto Zone and Checker Auto put a reader on it and got two different answers .

I drove it about 40 miles last week and it didn't act up. I drove it to town and back today, about 50 miles, and it was just fine. I did change the fuel filter last week, but I still don't know if it helped or not inasmuch as I never know when it might act up . I just know it hasn't the past two or three times I drove it, but then again, I never get far away except in the RV.

I may just let it go for now. I may never drive it more than a hundred miles in any one direction, anyway.

Weird, though, and that bugs me. Know what I mean?

Regards,

Jim

[rhandwor]

I have my own tester I use a linoleum heat gun like a hair dryer. I put a drop of water on the metal if it started to boil I stopped and checked it. Some work fine get so hot and trip out. Then they will cool and pass the test. I have used a hair dryer before.

[kodgerbill]

Originally Posted by rhandwor

I have my own tester I use a linoleum heat gun like a hair dryer. I put a drop of water on the metal if it started to boil I stopped and checked it. Some work fine get so hot and trip out. Then they will cool and pass the test. I have used a hair dryer before.

You lost me here.....totally .

Regards,

Jim

[rhandwor]

The module on the side of the distributor fails when hot. When you take it in to be tested take a hair dryer with you. They will test good cold by warming it up with the dryer it will fail if bad. Just don't overheat it and trash it. A drop of water will boil at this point stop if it passes it is good. Over appx. 90% of them have to be heated to find the problem.