1990 F150 starting issue - key start position problem, and jumping with solenoid

[mounddog]

Hi All -
Well i have a 1990 F150 6cyl 4.9 automatic truck. Its a beater and has about 205k on it - BUT that engine is great and purrs along. Body is in actually decent shape too - just Fugly!. Truck has a weird starting issue. Turning the key all the way turns dash lights on and i can hear the fuel pump engage - but wont try to start at all. Ive found that I can only start the truck by jumping the solenoid.
Ive finally started to really try and figure out the problem, partly since i need to re-register the truck and get it by inspection and something tells me they wont like the trusty old screwdriver trick.
Ok - so I changed the ignition starter switch that is that is bolted on the steering column. This was a no go. But one thing my buddy and i noticed on the ignition key is that you can turn the key 2 spaces to the right, but not to the last spot - the one usually for Starting the truck. I cant think of the name of the 4 spaces - theres the one backwards for accessories, then one forward for not sure what - one more to turn on dash lights and get readings etc (i guess 'drive' position)- and then the final 4th turn to start the car. Well even with the new ignition starter swithc, the key wont go to the forth spot (usually when you goto the starting spot, it will bounce back on its own to the 3rd normal drive mode spot). We confirmed the 'rod' that runs up the steering column was engaged in the switch.
Another weird thing we noticed was that EVEN with the key Out - we could make the engine crank over by jumping the solenoid. We both thought that was weird. Basically i guess the solenoid at this point is always hot or something.
Before i throw money at this truck - does anyone have any ideas? Would a neutal safety switch be involved here? I did try and start the truck with it in neutral.
Seems to me big issues is the lack of going to the 4th 'starting' position with the key, and the other issue is the truck cranks over even with the key Out of the ignition when jumping hte solenoid.
I Really appreciate any help wtih this. We're trying to clear this up this weekend. I do have access to a full junkyard with alot of F150s - thanks!
Mike

[Selectron]

Hi, it isn't too clear what the original problem was. If the key originally turned all the way to the spring-loaded Start position but the starter didn't crank the engine, then that indicates an electrical fault between the ignition switch Start contacts and the coil of the starter solenoid - the current passes through the Park/Neutral Position Switch as it travels from switch to solenoid. If that's what the original fault was then we can return to that later.

Right now, your immediate problem is that the ignition switch won't rotate as far as the Start position - I'm not sure if that was also the case with the original switch?

If the original switch was able to rotate fully then you just need to re-align the new switch (procedure below) and then we can proceed to track down the original electrical fault.

If however the original switch was unable to rotate to the Start position, and the new one won't either (assuming it's been correctly aligned) then that suggests a problem with the actuator between lock cylinder and switch, so you'll need to look more closely at that mechanism to determine why it won't fully rotate the switch.

These are the alignment instructions for the switch - you'll see it's crucial that both the locking mechanism and the switch must be in the Lock position during switch installation:

Ignition Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CAUTION
Read the air bag service precautions in Section 6 prior to doing work involving an air bag equipped steering column component. Always wear safety glasses when servicing an air bag vehicle and handling the air bag to avoid possible injury.

• Disconnect the battery ground cable.
• Remove the steering column shroud and lower the steering column.
• Disconnect the switch wiring at the multiple plug.
• Remove the two nuts that retain the switch to the steering column.
• Lift the switch vertically upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove the switch.
• When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column and the switch itself must be in the LOCK position for correct adjustment. To hold the mechanical parts of the column in the LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to the LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are already pinned in the LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of the switch.
• Engage the actuator rod in the switch.
• Position the switch on the column and install the retaining nuts, but do not tighten them.
• Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash, and then tighten the retaining nuts.
• Remove the locking pin, connect the battery cable, and check for proper start in PARK or NEUTRAL. -- Also check to make certain that the start circuit cannot be actuated in the DRIVE and REVERSE position.
• Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Install steering column shroud.

P.S. Being able to crank the engine by bridging the solenoid is perfectly normal, even with no key in the ignition switch so that's nothing to worry about (the solenoid is fed directly from the battery so it's hot at all times).

[tgore3]

Sounds right on Selectron