1995 No Start, fan and fuel pump run continuously

[moogy1]

I have a 1995 SE, 3.0L Vulcan, automatic transmisson. It is experiencing the exact problem, as below:

..."The car is a ’95 SE, 3.8L V-6, Auto Trans.
There is what is happening. When the ignition is turned to the ‘run’ position, the engine fan and fuel pump will come on and NOT switch off. Turning the ignition to the ‘start’ position, the starter will turn the engine strong – but it will not start. The radiator fan/fuel pump will continue to constantly run until the ignition switch is turned to the off position." ...

Has anyone the same experience, if so how was the problem corrected?

Thank you

[tripletdaddy]

Have you solved this problem? Where did you find your quote? Was that solved? I'll take a stab as no one has yet.

The fan and fuel pump are controlled by the constant control relay module, ccrm, so it could be a possible suspect, but doesn't especially address the no start condition. The ccrm receives its signal to operate the various things it controls by the pcm or ecu, aka engine computer. The pcm also controls everything else just about, so it could be responsible for the no start, fan and pump problems. Let's hope not, though, a junkyard unit is a good option if all else fails, speaking unfortunately from personal experience. Unrelated to the fan and pump, the ignition control module could be bad. Was this a gradually developing problem or all of a sudden?

Boy, the more I think about it, the more it sounds like your ecu is bad. It is responsible for turning on the fuel pump for a few seconds and then off before start up. I don't know much about it, but the ecu may need to be "flashed" or maybe more correctly, reprogrammed. I'm not sure if the dealer is the only one who can do this. The alternative is wrestling the ecu out of the car and trying a used one. Mine cost $35, but I had to pull that one too. They are online like ebay. Yours was very common. You will need to find the part number off the back of it. Then from that, you need the middle 4 and last digits. The first group isn't needed. The back side of it is visible by opening and disengaging the glove box door sides for it to hang all the way down. Look straight back above the hvac black plastic box where you will see its metal body. The ecu is about 5 ' wide by 2' high and 6" deep.

[tripletdaddy]

Oh boy. I was asleep at the stick on this. My deepest apologies for not getting this right and sending you a little off course. The PCM/ECA/ECU is located as I said, BUT the Ford part number you need is NOT visible from inside the car. It may be visible with an inspection mirror and some body contorting under the hood at the firewall. It is mounted in the firewall behind the ac accumulator/drier. It has a very large wire bundle and rectangle connector to it with a long bolt through its center. The part number label is on the underside of the computer side connector (it may be gray). The number is NOT the printed number on the top side of the connector. If it is like mine, a 94 with the 3.0, it would be close to or the same as F44F-12A650-AA. The 12A650-AA is the number you need to locate a new or used replacement, and it has to be an EXACT match of that number, especially the last two, AA. The 12A650 is pretty common. Only a part supplier will be able to tell you if another last two digits will work on your car.

Sorry for the confusion. I wanted to get that straight for you and anyone else that comes along looking for that info. Let us know what's the outcome and how it was solved and it there is anything we can do to help.