2004 Suburban won't start

[Wild70Bill]

Got up this morning and tried to go and attend a prayer breakfast early. The Suburban would turn over very stongly but would not start.
I suspect a fuel problem, however I can hear the fuel pump run for about 2secs and stop every time I turn the key on and off.
Is this a common problem with this model? 95,000k miles and yes, the fule tank is at 1/4 full.

Thanks,
Bill

[maxwedge]

Welcome to AF. Check the fuel pressure at the rail, 58 psi is required.

[Cusser]

OK, this is on my 1994 5.7 liter V8, may be similar to yours:
First 2 seconds, the fuel pump is energized by the fuel pump relay, on the firewall, like yours does. Then, the computer recognizes that the engine has started, and the electricity for the fuel pump goes through the OIL SENDER then to the fuel pump (yes, the oil sender, near the distributor, so zero oil pressure means engine shuts off). My issue was intermittent stalling or non-start, with no voltage getting to the fuel pump; for me it turned out that the ignition module of the distributor was bad/intermittent, so failure to start gave me no voltage to the fuel pump. I had replaced both the fuel pump relay ($9) and oil sender ($25) myself, but those didn't fix it. My mechanic had it a day previous to that where it (of course) was perfect, but after I had replaced those two it stalled and AAA towed it to him, lots easier to diagnose when it stays broken. You may want to try a module, considering what mechanics' rates and parts markups are these days.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by Cusser

OK, this is on my 1994 5.7 liter V8, may be similar to yours:
First 2 seconds, the fuel pump is energized by the fuel pump relay, on the firewall, like yours does. Then, the computer recognizes that the engine has started, and the electricity for the fuel pump goes through the OIL SENDER then to the fuel pump (yes, the oil sender, near the distributor, so zero oil pressure means engine shuts off). My issue was intermittent stalling or non-start, with no voltage getting to the fuel pump; for me it turned out that the ignition module of the distributor was bad/intermittent, so failure to start gave me no voltage to the fuel pump. I had replaced both the fuel pump relay ($9) and oil sender ($25) myself, but those didn't fix it. My mechanic had it a day previous to that where it (of course) was perfect, but after I had replaced those two it stalled and AAA towed it to him, lots easier to diagnose when it stays broken. You may want to try a module, considering what mechanics' rates and parts markups are these days.

On the ones that have the oil pressure switch wired to the fuel pump.
It is not a engine kill or fuel pump saftey switch for lose of oil pressure.
It is tied in series with the fuel pump relay and.
It's only purpose is to keep the engine fuel pump running if the fuel pump relay fails.
Otherwise it is only along for the ride.
But the same fuse that powers it powers the fuel pump relay.
So it or relay loses 12 volt power feed from the same fuse the fuel pump will quit.
MT