A new noise....bearing?

[Gbuzz71]

Ok, I was coming home from a day trip out of town. About a 100 mile trip, it was very hot and humid outside. I was 5 miles from home and it started. I can only describe it as it sounded like the front driver side wheel would periodically stop or slow down enough for it to chirp like I slammed the brakes. I was driving about 45 mph in a straight line.

No service lights on dash came on. I just replaced the front rotors and pads and the drivers side caliper. So I'm thinking it's some kind of bearing. I'm not that mechanically incline, but I can replace the rotor and pads. How difficult is a bearing replacement( if that's the problem)???

It's a Z71 Silverado 2003 with 36K on it.

I'd appreciate any thoughts.

[MT-2500]

Foot on or off brakes?
Can you feel the brake or wheel pull when it does it.

Recheck pads and caliper sliders.
Feel for wheel looseness and feel and listen for noise in the wheel
Is wheel running hot?
Bearing is not hard to replace when rotor and pads off.

[Gbuzz71]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Foot on or off brakes?
Can you feel the brake or wheel pull when it does it.

Recheck pads and caliper sliders.
Feel for wheel looseness and feel and listen for noise in the wheel
Is wheel running hot?
Bearing is not hard to replace when rotor and pads off.

My foot was off the brakes when the noise was happening. Where would I check the wheel for running hot? Is the caliper slider the bolt that goes through the caliper?

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by Gbuzz71

My foot was off the brakes when the noise was happening. Where would I check the wheel for running hot? Is the caliper slider the bolt that goes through the caliper?

If the wheel is running hot, you will know by touching it after a long drive. It will be hot! This is an indication of a dragging pad.

Does the vehicle pull to one side or the other when it makes the noise?

[ukrkoz]

1. it is common sense to re-check on the last repair done, just in case.
2. it is hard to judge from the description, but i do not think it's a hub bearing. is it a 4x4? if yes, then it does not have front spindle bearing, but has a hub bearing, and it needs to be replaced as assembly. it is a LARGE bearing. vertical play in the wheel points towards it going bad, and silvies do this anywhere around 60K miles to start with. as did mine.
i am leaning more towards either bent or loose splash shield or something else "left behind" after last job done.

i re-read your post. binding caliper? that will give periodically stop or slow down enough for it to chirp like I slammed the brakes symptoms. definitely recheck the job.

[Gbuzz71]

Originally Posted by ukrkoz

1. it is common sense to re-check on the last repair done, just in case.
2. it is hard to judge from the description, but i do not think it's a hub bearing. is it a 4x4? if yes, then it does not have front spindle bearing, but has a hub bearing, and it needs to be replaced as assembly. it is a LARGE bearing. vertical play in the wheel points towards it going bad, and silvies do this anywhere around 60K miles to start with. as did mine.
i am leaning more towards either bent or loose splash shield or something else "left behind" after last job done.

i re-read your post. binding caliper? that will give periodically stop or slow down enough for it to chirp like I slammed the brakes symptoms. definitely recheck the job.

I replaced the pads and rotors about 6 weeks ago. How would I tell if the caliper is binding? Is there a quick fix? And yes it is a 4x4. Thanks for your reply.

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by Gbuzz71

I replaced the pads and rotors about 6 weeks ago. How would I tell if the caliper is binding? Is there a quick fix? And yes it is a 4x4. Thanks for your reply.

DOES IT PULL TO ONE SIDE?

[Gbuzz71]

Originally Posted by silicon212

DOES IT PULL TO ONE SIDE?

I took my hand off the wheel while it chirped and it didn't pull to one side. The truck kind of has a disturbance that only the driver could feel. It's real subtle like a little shimmy. However....when I depress the brakes firmly the truck does and always has pulled to the left. Before the brake job and after. I've been driving on these new brakes for 6 weeks without a hitch...now all of sudden it's a stuck caliper???? Could this be?

P.S. I love the big red letters.... sorry I didn't respond in a timely manner. Your help is appreciated.

[silicon212]

Sorry, I had asked the question earlier and felt like I wasn't getting anywhere! No offense intended.

If it has a pull, then there might be a problem with a caliper or even a warped rotor. When you did the brakes, did you simply scuff the rotors, or did you have them surfaced or replaced? It actually sounds like a warped rotor to me.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Gbuzz71

I replaced the pads and rotors about 6 weeks ago. How would I tell if the caliper is binding? Is there a quick fix? And yes it is a 4x4. Thanks for your reply.

if you needed rotors and brake pads on the front after 36,ooomi either your vehicle does not really have this mileage or you have bad calipers...when the brakes where replaced did the pads look the same with the same wear .......if not the pads that where badly worn that side needs troubleshooting so as to determine the cause...my 2000 sil 4x4 went 92,ooomi on pads same rotors today 115,ooomi.....somethings wrong with brakes...you still may have bearing problem but because the ABS is not acting up probably not......


the use of after market cheap pads are not recommended....oem type last longer and do not damage the rotors with severe grooving......

[Gbuzz71]

Originally Posted by silicon212

Sorry, I had asked the question earlier and felt like I wasn't getting anywhere! No offense intended.

If it has a pull, then there might be a problem with a caliper or even a warped rotor. When you did the brakes, did you simply scuff the rotors, or did you have them surfaced or replaced? It actually sounds like a warped rotor to me.

I put brand new rotors on the front. The original rotors were all chewed up and rusted. It took me and hour and 15 minutes of hammering to get them off And I put a new caliper on the driver's side. The inside pad was worn all the way down while the other wasn't bad at all. So I assumed it was a bad caliper.

On short trips, less than 10 miles, it doesn't make the noise.

Once again your insight is appreciated.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Gbuzz71

I put brand new rotors on the front. The original rotors were all chewed up and rusted. It took me and hour and 15 minutes of hammering to get them off And I put a new caliper on the driver's side. The inside pad was worn all the way down while the other wasn't bad at all. So I assumed it was a bad caliper.

On short trips, less than 10 miles, it doesn't make the noise.

Once again your insight is appreciated.

the info appears to show caliper/brake fluid as the cause....bad caliper pins,a rusted caliper piston, contaminated fluid.....I would re bleed the brake calipers by opening the bleed screw and then push cal piston fully back so as to dump all the brake fluid in the caliper until the fluid is clear....do one cal at a time and do not allow brake res to go empty.....


cal pins must slide easy if too tight sand, file or replace....


brake pads must also move with ease if not file pad backing metal to accomplish this ........

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by Gbuzz71

I put brand new rotors on the front. The original rotors were all chewed up and rusted. It took me and hour and 15 minutes of hammering to get them off And I put a new caliper on the driver's side. The inside pad was worn all the way down while the other wasn't bad at all. So I assumed it was a bad caliper.

On short trips, less than 10 miles, it doesn't make the noise.

Once again your insight is appreciated.

Now, let me ask you another question. Did you thoroughly clean the new rotors before you installed them? They are shipped with an oily type coating to prevent rust and corrosion during storage. Sometimes, this isn't oily and is actually rather varnish-like. It MUST be cleaned off before you install the rotor, or it will lead to an overheated brake system and warped rotor. It will grab the pads and emulate a bad caliper.

j cAT - I tend to get 20k to 30k on a set of brakes. Do I use bad or low-quality components? Absolutely not. It has to do with the way I drive and not the quality of the brakes. Sure, Grandma might get 50k or better out of the factory brakes, but someone who is hard on them might not get 20k. Don't automatically assume that because he had to change his at 36k that his calipers are sticking. That, in and of itself, is rare and if both are actually 'sticking', that would tell me something more along the lines of a faulty combo valve.

[Gbuzz71]

Originally Posted by silicon212

Now, let me ask you another question. Did you thoroughly clean the new rotors before you installed them? They are shipped with an oily type coating to prevent rust and corrosion during storage. Sometimes, this isn't oily and is actually rather varnish-like. It MUST be cleaned off before you install the rotor, or it will lead to an overheated brake system and warped rotor. It will grab the pads and emulate a bad caliper.

j cAT - I tend to get 20k to 30k on a set of brakes. Do I use bad or low-quality components? Absolutely not. It has to do with the way I drive and not the quality of the brakes. Sure, Grandma might get 50k or better out of the factory brakes, but someone who is hard on them might not get 20k. Don't automatically assume that because he had to change his at 36k that his calipers are sticking. That, in and of itself, is rare and if both are actually 'sticking', that would tell me something more along the lines of a faulty combo valve.

I did not clean the rotors before installation. Is it too late?

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by Gbuzz71

I did not clean the rotors before installation. Is it too late?

Unfortunately, yes. You're looking at having them surfaced, and new pads (again).