92 PA, Engine Mount/Water Pump

[dwhisent]

I'm working on replacing my water pump, and I've hit a snag. I'm trying to pull off the engine mount, and I can't see to get it off. I've removed 2 bolts and one nut from the engine part of the mount, and I've removed 4 bolts (2 on top, 2 on the side) from the fender side. I've got the oil pan supported on a jack/board from below. The engine side mount will rotate on the threaded post, of course being kept from rotating far by the water pump bolts.

My problem is the fender side part of the engine mount won't move. I can't see any more bolts holding it. What am I missing? Do I just need to jack the engine up further to relieve stress on it or something? Or is there another bolt/nut I've missed?

[HotZ28]

Hi Doug! Did you remove the through-bolt from the torque axis (front) engine mount? (The big long bolt) In addition, to get the engine side of the mount off, you will need to lift the engine until the power steering reservoir touches the strut tower cross brace. Even then, the mount will need to be turned 180 deg to get it out. The Series I L27 & L67 PA & LeSabre were the most difficult water pump to replace! They finally made some improvements with the introduction of the Series II (VIN-K & 1). Click here for some more info on the procedure. Have fun & good luck!

[dwhisent]

Hi, HotZ

Yes, I removed the long through bolt. However, the fender side of the mount isn't moving. That's what I'm not understanding... should the engine side of the mount and the fender side now be able to separate? They don't seem to be coming apart...

BTW, thanks for the Autozone link. I am expecting I don't have the engine jacked up enough... I'll mess with it again tomorrow evening.

BTW again, are you a Marine (noting your sig)? My son is also, currently in MOS school.

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by dwhisnet

I am expecting I don't have the engine jacked up enough..

I think you are right. You need to jack the engine up until the two mounts separate, then the frame side will fall out.

And yes, I am a former Marine (Viet Nam era) but as the saying goes; "Once a Marine, always a Marine"! Tell your son, welcome to the brotherhood, he is my hero & Semper Fi

It's a funny thing, but, as years go by, I think you appreciate more and more what a great thing it was to be a United States Marine... I am a U.S. Marine and I'll be one till I die."

Ted Williams, Baseball Hall of Famer

Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference, and our Marines don't have that problem.

President Ronald Reagan, 1985

[dwhisent]

Well, it keeps getting worse... sure enough, jacking up the engine did the trick for the mount, and now that I see how it's made, I see why.

OK, I can get to the water pump (haven't removed it yet). So I pulled off the alternator, I wanted to go ahead and replace the bypass hose at the same time, it looks kinda old. So I loosen the clamps, give a slight tug on the end that goes horizontally into the upper part of the engine (maybe intake manifold, cylinder head, not sure) and the inlet tube that the hose connects to practically falls apart - with most of it inside the engine, of course! If I had to guess, I bet that's where my leak was coming from in the first place, Ibet that piece was cracked. But now I have to figure out how to get the remainder out of the engine (looks like it's made of hard plastic, and screws in?), then figure out where to get a new part. (sigh). I'll go ahead and replace the water pump anyway, as long as it's this far apart.

But it'll probably have to wait a week. I'm heading off to southern MS for a week, helping repair hurricane/flood damage, leaving Saturday AM.

If anyone has any slick tricks about getting that inlet tube out, I'm listening. It's broken off about a quarter inch inside the engine.

[HotZ28]

You can find that info in our; "Buick Tips and Maintenance Procedures"

Click Here for Plastic Coolant Bypass Fitting: *VIN-L 3800*

[dwhisent]

And I figured that no one else would have had this problem Thanks again!