Both Radiater Fans Inop 96 Windstar 3.8 eng

[ringo7]

I disconected Temp-senser; the one with two wires that sends Signal to P.C.M. and both Fans work fine; I replaced Senser with New one; no Fans---Disconected plug
works fine;
Does this mean i need to replace P.C.M.?

[96wWindstar180K]

ringo7
Sounds like a ccrm to me. Did it do the same thing with the old sensor? vbmenu_register("postmenu_5758750", true);

[ringo7]

Yes It did the same with old Senser;Unplugged fans work,Plug in ;no fan;

[96wWindstar180K]

ringo7
Ill test mine and get back to you. I would almost be sure it was ccrm but ill check the operation of mine. vbmenu_register("postmenu_5759798", true);

[Selectron]

I think you should check the cooling fan dropping resistor.

When you disconnected the temperature sensor and the fans came on, it's possible that it was the high-speed circuit which was activated. For the most part, that's a quite separate circuit to the low-speed circuit, and it's only the low-speed circuit which feeds current via the dropping resistor.

In the normal course of events, when the engine exceeds a certain temperature, or when the A/C is switched on, it's the low-speed circuit which will be activated in both cases, and it's under those conditions that your fans are failing to operate.

You can check fuse H (40A, located in the engine compartment fuse box) and if that's ok then proceed to check the resistor. With the engine switched off, it won't be carrying any current so you can do a simple resistance check across it. If access is awkward then you can check the resistance from the 'cold' end of fuse H, to terminal 6 of the CCRM, if that's any easier. I don't know what the value should be, but it will be low - almost certainly in single figures, and I did read that searcherrr measured it at around 3 ohms on his '95 3.8L.

[96wWindstar180K]

ringo7
Didnt read your post in the other thread about already replacing ccrm. I agree with Selectron. When you turn on the ac do you get high speed fan change with the the connection on sensor disconnected? If you only get one speed from the fans the dropping resisor is bad.

[ringo7]

Yes; It is as You say, I only get High Speed Fan;
Thanks to Both of You --Conclusion Drooping Resister Replace ; p.

[ringo7]

I am using a Haynes Manuel;;; Where is the Rad,Fan low speed Droping Resister located? Thanks

[tripletdaddy]

It is visible by looking straight down behind the pass side headlght assembly. It is a white ceramic "U" shaped block about 1in by 1.5 in by 4 in. The wire leads connect on the other side of the metal wall behind the lights and grill. The connection should be right next to the wiper fluid fill down low. I think it will have brown w/ orange and black w/ orange wires to it.

[ringo7]

selectron-windstar 180k Thanks I removed the low speed fan dropping Resister ,under it 1/3 missing and wire exposed; I will get new one Monday;Does this mean I replaced a 100 dollar ccrm for nothing? My Wife"s original complaint was Air only coming out Defrost,I fixed ,She didn"t tell me Air Compresser not Engaging ,I think the Air-compresser Cluth not engageing is a bad clutch;
tripletdaddy thanks for pointing out the location and what the low Fan dropping Resister looked like;

[tripletdaddy]

To get your air to blow right and not just defrost, did you fix a vacuum leak? That's what typically causes that.

So, with the new ccrm, your ac clutch is still not engaging? It is the main relay that engages the clutch. You could too low refrigerant level, pressure. A bad low pressure sensor/clutch cycling switch which is connected to the accumulator/drier (black little cylindrical tank) or a line very close to it and has two purple wires to it. You could use a jumper wire across the connector momentarily to activate the clutch to see if the sensor is bad. There is another screw in type sensor that switches the fan via a black/white and tan/ light green wire. It also is the high pressure clutch cutout switch wire purple and black/yellow wires. You could try jumping that too with the connector removed. The cycling switch is normally open(poweroff) and the cutout switch is normally closed(power on). If you try to hot wire the clutch, you will also provide a separate ground at the two wire connector. Do not put power to the clutch without removing the connector to it to not damage your $100 ccrm or the ECU/PCM!?! Since this is all from a Hanyes diagram, no gaurantees on wire colors and exact component arrangements, but I do believe to be of a common and reasonable setup.

[ringo7]

tripledaddy: I will replace the dropping Resister Mon;
I think I"ll do a retest on the Air-Comp. Clutch ,with Elect. Plugg remove use a wire from Batt; Pos: and also a Negative wire on the Prong, I only used one Wire onto Pos; Iread Your info and found out I had not done that;Thanks Your troubleshooting very precise;

[ringo7]

I went to Autozone,They didn"t stock a dropping Resister; I went to Ford Dealer,none in stock ,they will get One from Memphis,3 days ;;;The cost 79 dollars;up front;this thing has kicked me in the right hip;

[wiswind]

A link to a picture in a series that I posted that shows the low speed dropping resistor for the radiator fans.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2458...11220610ybouky

This is a common failure....and....in my opinion also contributes to wear and tear on the transmission.......by reducing the cooling of the transmission fluid in stop and go traffic.
Having my A/C on in stop and go traffic keeps the radiator fans running.....and keeps the motor cooler.......and the transmission cooler......