2000 1.3L Valve Lash Adjustment

[sas95]

I've got a 2000 1.3L and need to know how to adjust the valve lash.

My shop manual doesn't state how. The whole section for valve lash adjustment is misprinted and doesn't make sense. I removed the camshaft for cleaning and inspection, and have put it back in place, and have bolted in the camshaft housings. The rocker arm adjustment screws are not exactly wehre they were due to having backed them all the way up to remove the camshaft.

My manual at this point just says:
8.1 Set the number one cylinder to top dead center.
8.2 Ensure the camshaft is in proper phase.
8.3 Adjust valves 1, 2, 8 and 6.
8.4 Rotate the crankshaft one revolution. (360 degrees)
8.5 Adjust valves 3, 4, 7 and 5.

How does one "adjust the valves"? Between what things do you measure and what are the values?

[older'n'dirt]

SAS- not 100% sure on your 1.3l, but, generally speaking, intake valves are set at .008" to .010" cold and exhaust are set at .012" to .014" cold. There is usually a spec page in the "Rebuild" section of most manuals.

***NOTE*** These specs are not specific to your vehicle. Check with more knowledgable sources for exact specifications.

By "adjusting the valves" you are either setting an air gap between the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem, or, you are adjusting a hydraulic lifter to a point in its mid range, so that it neither bottoms out nor is too loose. This is done so that when the engine warms up and the valves expand along their axis, they are not held open.

Measurements are taken with feeler gauges between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm on manually adjusted valves. On hydraulic lifters, the rocker nuts are usually tightened down until there is no play between the rocker arm and the valve stem, and another fractional turn added, eg., zero clearance plus 1/2 turn.

Your manual should tell you more. If your manual says just what you have quoted, you may want to get help. Yes, number one cylinder should be at TDC, but it should be on the compression stroke as well (timing marks lined up somewhere). Not sure how they numbered the valves, maybe they are adjusting number four cylinder first.*

Personally, I never liked the sequence of adjustment that manuals used. But like I said, it's personal, and it is quite acceptable to use their method. Anyway, check another manual or PM someone here for specifics.

*Edit to above- Sorry, should have said they were firing number four first. Depends on how they number the valves.

[sas95]

Thanks for the info. I still can't even find the spacing specs in my repair manual, but the Haynes manual indicates intake valves 0.006 inch cold, and exhaust valves 0.008 inches cold.

[Woodie83]

The only place I've ever found this spec is on the sticker on the inside of the hood.

.006" intake
.010" exhaust
cold at the valve stem, .001" more if hot.

Here's the tricky bit: it's damned near impossible to get to the valve tip, much easier to reach the actual cam lobe at the other end of the rocker arm. Recommendation from Mike Cove, the brain behind 3Tech engineering is to measure at the cam lobe with the following specs:

.004" intake
.008" exhaust

[sas95]

Thanks for this info. I use these specs. Definitely will use the spacing at the lobe contact for the intake valves. What others earlier in the thread may not have realized is that this is the 16-valve engine, and does not have hydraulic valve lifters, but instead strictly mechanical ones.

Where I'm coming from is I had replaced the cylinder head gasket. As part of doing that I had loosend up all the rocker arms to removed the camshaft in order to reach the cylinder head bolts. I had also removed the camshaft sprocket from the camshaft.

I'm wondering right now if I have mounted the camshaft sprocket correctly back on the camshaft. Looks like there's two orientations it can go on. I placed the camshaft back in the cylinder head such that the orientation pin at the end of the shaft is at 6 o'clock (at bottom of rotation). I've mounted the sprocket on the shaft so that the 'E' and dot are at 12 o'clock. Hope this is right.

Also, in setting the rocker lash, I assume one sets spacing for sets where the valve is closed (stem all the way up/out). Supposedly half of all the valves will be closed with the sprocket 'E' "up" (matched to the rocker cover "V"). After setting these, you rotate the cranshaft 360-degrees, and the camshaft rotates 180 degrees with the "E" oriented at 6 o'clock. The other half of the valves are then to be in the closed position, and you set them. Correct?

[fubard]

I just adjusted my valves yesterday after replacing the head gasket on my 1.32L. I tried all sorts of things mostly from the internet. They were all WRONG!! I ended up making sure of the cam lobe position and adjusting each valve 1 at a time. It was a bit tedious but it worked perfect! After the adjustment was done I spun the crank 1 full turn and rechecked the clearance by noting the cam lobe position. The cam lobe MUST be pointing to the the block before checking your clearance. My 1992 1.3L uses intake clearance of .15MM and exhaust at .17MM. Once your valves are adjusted spin the crank 360 and re-measure the clearances.When you're satisfied disconnect the coil lead and crank it over. If nothing sounds funny connect up the coil and start it up. If you've done everything right it will fire up ! I fired mine up for a few seconds without the rad being in. Once I was satisfied all was good I proceeded to finish off the job. All in all I was very satisfied with the outcome.

Good Luck !

[sas95]

Originally Posted by fubard

I just adjusted my valves yesterday after replacing the head gasket on my 1.32L. My 1992 1.3L uses intake clearance of .15MM and exhaust at .17MM.

Good Luck !

This is the wrong info for my engine. Yours is an 8-valve engine with hydraulic lifters. Mine has mechanical lifters and 16 valves. The spec you gave me are wrong. The 16-valve engine was only in Metros in years 1998 - 2001.

[sas95]

Clyinder Head alignment ... OK, how does one align the cylinder head onto the block when installing it? This is for the 1.3L 16-valve engine. I discovered when you place the head on the block and partially thread the 10 bolts through that you can shift aroun the head maybe 5 mm in any direction. This isn't good. Is there a technique for lining up the oil passage and the cylinder wall circles?

[Woodie83]

I think there are supposed to be dowell pins that locate the head precisely. It's been many years for me though, maybe one of the guys with more recent experience can be more certain.

Here's a picture of a three cylinder that I stole from Johnny Mullet's valve job how to, see the tubes sticking out of the block?

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...tf/3cyl013.gif