Had Recall 07035 done today et al.

['88 Dread GT]

Well, I had the recall done on my '01 GTP today involving the front valve cover gasket and spark plug wire retainers. I also had them change the rear valve cover gasket. It was starting to leak and my car does have 148K miles on it.

My ABS light has been on for a while and they diagnosed that and then why my "low coolant" light stays on until the car get warm enough. I need a new EBCM (ABS control module) $1016 and a new coolant level sensor $255!

My question is, is it hard to change either? Does changing the EBCM require rebleeding the brakes and all that other stuff or is it just a plug-in part?

And, what are the part #'s?

Thanks!

[richtazz]

The EBCM is not a DIY job, so I would leave that to a shop (although I'd get a second opinion to be sure it's not something simple like a hub bearing or the related wiring). The coolant level sensor is GM part #10096163, and even full dealer retail is only $64.68 (a Delco distributor could sell it for about 1/2 that) and it takes less than 10 minutes to change (and that's only if you need to remove the battery for clearance). The coolant level sensor is located in the passenger side radiator tank just below the upper transmission cooler line, and is held in place by a single spring loaded wire clip. $225 to change that is absolute highway robbery!!!! It may only need to be cleaned, as they get gunked up with sludge and start to malfunction.

[BNaylor]

He could do the EBTCM module himself and save a bunch of money versus the stealership route. Also, remove it and send it off for repair. There is a company that specializes in repairing EBTCM modules. It is the first module where the electrical connector goes to the ABS modulator and motorpack assembly, however, after replacement it will need to be vacuum bled by a shop.

Assuming this was a GM dealership what chassis/abs DTCs did they retrieve to show the EBTCM was the issue which is not uncommon by the way.

[00GTP4ME]

DO NOT let them charge you $225 for that coolant level sensor. I replaced mine for $65 bucks and ten minutes under the hood! And I'm no mechanic, either! Rich is absolutely right.

Dealing with that spring retainer can take some patience, but it's very easy to do yourself. Just make sure you have some needle-nose pliars. When you pull the spring off, the sensor just pulls out of the radiator. You will lose some coolant, so make sure you put down a pan to catch it.
Like Rich said, I'd try cleaning the sensor really well and then putting it back to see if you saved yourself the money. If you've cleaned it and it still comes back on, then go ahead and replace it, but for heaven's sake do it yourself. Whoever it was that quoted you $225 is out to screw you blind, and I wouldn't take my car there again! - that's just me.
Any auto parts store should be able to order the coolant level sensor for you. I replaced mine two years ago and it hasn't come on since.

Good luck!

P.S. You did check your coolant fluid level before going after the sensor, right?

['88 Dread GT]

Oh trust me I just let them inspect the sensor and EBCM because they called me informing me that they were on. So I said they could diagnose them. The coolant sensor almost made me laugh right on the phone. I'd rather have the damn thing on all the time. Not worried, I'm mechanically inclined and have owned a Fiero GT for 13 years. If you can work in that cramped engine space, you can work on anything.

The EBCM on the other hand is gonna be a problem, I know nothing about brake bleeding or taking apart hoses or lines and dealing with brake fluid. I found an EBCM at a GM parts site, cheapest for a supercharged 3800 is about $600.

[tblake]

well, the thing is, the dealershit quoted you 225 to change a coolant level sensor, then whats to say that they didn't mis inform you about the ebtcm? Maybe its just a wheel bearing thats the problem and they are trying to screw you over. Can you get the codes from thelike Bob said?

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by '88 Dread GT

The EBCM on the other hand is gonna be a problem, I know nothing about brake bleeding or taking apart hoses or lines and dealing with brake fluid. I found an EBCM at a GM parts site, cheapest for a supercharged 3800 is about $600.

Your EBTCM module should be similar to the one in the pic below. The EBTCM part is strictly the black parts you see and not the complete modulator/pump/motorpack assembly. Just one easy electrical connector to remove. All you need is a Torx bit and driver set for the Torx head bolts. No brakes lines are messed with or disconnected. The reason for the vacuum bleed after replacement is to get rid of the air that may be introduced into the system after this part is replaced.

This is the company that repairs these modules: Module Master


ABS Pump with EBTCM module - (1999 and up Grand Prix with GM/Bosch 5.3 ABS)

['88 Dread GT]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

Your EBTCM module should be similar to the one in the pic below. The EBTCM part is strictly the black parts you see and not the complete modulator/pump/motorpack assembly. Just one easy electrical connector to remove. All you need is a Torx bit and driver set for the Torx head bolts. No brakes lines are messed with or disconnected. The reason for the vacuum bleed after replacement is to get rid of the air that may be introduced into the system after this part is replaced.

This is the company that repairs these modules: Module Master


ABS Pump with EBTCM module - (1999 and up Grand Prix with GM/Bosch 5.3 ABS)

Yup, that's the beast. This I can do! Thanks for the help!

['88 Dread GT]

The rear wheel bearings were changed back in February. And I DID mention that to the dealership. Could one of the wires been pinched or even ruptured causing a short in the EBTCM?

Thanks for all the help!

[BNaylor]

Unless the dealership techs were just speculating they probably connected the Tech II scan tool and checked wheel speed sensor comparative output and other diagnostics but I would not assume they did. Also, the Tech II should have picked up any wheel sensor related DTCs. A DTC has to set to cause any ABS and traction control system lights. That is why it is best to check back with the dealer and ask them for the specific chassis/abs DTCs or how they confirmed the EBTCM was bad.