96 Metro - No Go

[older'n'dirt]

Just some history on vehicle: never had a starting problem; repaired lots of wiring, 99% lights; replace rhs outer axle shaft; repaired lhs frt window regulator; 49mpg in summer (don't bother in winter); burns 0.5 litre oil every 5000k; change oil at 5000k; has 370,000kms; dash is fading BUT roof liner still attached!; have owned vehicle for almost one year and drove it every day.

Problem: In Oct. 2007, drove into town (25km), everything fine. Parked car for about one hour. Went to leave, would crank but no start. Left it for about four hours. Started it and drove home. In April 2008, drove to neighbours house (1km, hey, I'm old!), parked it. Went to leave about 4 hours later, turned over, wouldn't start. Played with battery cables, looked down air cleaner, swore, retried several times, still no go. Had a Bud. Started car and drove home. May 2008, drove car to work at golf course, parked it. Went to leave about 6 hours later, no go. Left it there overnight. Went back, tried to start, no go. Wiggled all connectors, tried again, started, drove to gas station, refueled, picked up wife at work, drove home, parked it. Has not run since.

Work completed: checked for spark on secondary side, none; checked for power on primary side, full voltage; replaced coil (yeah, I know, I read the other posts), still no spark; replaced ignition module (igniter?), still no spark; replaced pick up coil with known good one, still no spark; checked compression, reasonable; checked cam/crank timing, ok; replaced crank position sensor, still no spark; removed complete wiring harness from ECM and checked each wire and connector, no breaks/corrosion (someone had the foresight to grease the connectors); replaced harness, no spark. Checked wiring harness from under lhs dash, replaced two connectors and complete fuse panel and spliced in some sections of wire for headlights. All electrical circuits seem ok.

Starter cranks no different than when I got it. Mileage hasn't dropped. Oil consumption the same as day one.

Now for some constructive brown-nosing: from what I've read on other posts, you guys know what you're talking about. I need help. What can you suggest. I just hope it isn't something glaringly blatant that I'll have to tell my wife it was out of fuel.

Thanks in advance.

[doug2060]

Hello, Do you have a check engine light coming on? You may want to try to get it scanned with an OBD II scan tool. I would also recommend checking all the electrical grounds related to the ignition system. It sounds like you have covered the obvious so I would try cleaning the ground wires. Also take out the related fuses and relays and clean them and where they plug in with contact cleaner. Good luck...

[older'n'dirt]

Thanks doug.

Ground cables come with harness when removed. Eyelets and mounts clean and shiny. NO codes present. All fuses and relays are in excellent shape and working. I really can't believe how clean these connectors are. They all look brand new.

[older'n'dirt]

Had the ECM scanned and there was a code present. Apparently, the SES doesn't always flash. Anyway, the code was P0340, camshaft position sensor A - bank 1 circuit malfunction. Interesting as I can't find any reference to this sensor in the manual, nor can I see one on the car. Anybody have any ideas as to how to proceed?

Thanks

[Crvett69]

cam sensor is the distributor. there is also a crank sensor at bottom of engine that controls spark also

[older'n'dirt]

Pulled out distributor and checked pick up coil gap and resistance. Both are within spec (unit was working fine in other engine). Have already replaced crank sensor with new one. I am going to see if I can pick some brains in town today, probably won't get far. They all say the same thing: "bring the car in so we can check it". I wonder what the bill would total so far at shop rates? And still not be running.

[Mike_Van]

What are the chances that the crank sensor is combination of very voltage- or heat-sensitive?

On hot days I sometimes will not be able to start (all I get is a click) until I wait (checking to see that no accessories are ON, or that the parking brake is not ON) and try to start it again.
Until now, it has always started on the 4th or 5th try but hearing that click on the first try is always a major let-down...

[older'n'dirt]

This is close to the lousiest summer that anyone can remember. Cold, probably around a 60-65F average, and wet. I doubt it is a heat problem. Sensor is new from the box to the car in under two minutes. New sensor had same resistance as old one, which I take it to mean there was nothing wrong with the old one. Went through the wiring again this morning, from PCM to reverse lamp switch. Nothing disconnected, nothing loose. Right now, I have the PCM in front of me with the covers off and I don't see any heat damage. I am going to see if I can find someone to test it.

[older'n'dirt]

Thanks for all the suggestions. After all the frustration and leaking skin, we happened across another Metro ('96, 196k km, one owner, needs a release brg., $500). How could I say no?

Thanks again.