Replacing fuel pump in '03 Yukon

[ricrog]

Hey everyone,

I am attempting to replace the fuel pump in my '03 Yukon. I have a good grasp of what I have to do to accomplish this but here's the problem I've encountered:

I am attempting to disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank, but they seem to be practically inaccessable to me. I can reach the quick disconnects but can't quite figure out how to release them. Looking at my Haynes manual, it tells me to use a small screwdriver to push the release on the connector but I can barely get a screwdriver in there.

Does anyone have any suggestions or tricks? Do I have to push the release on both sides of the connector at the same time (that seems practically impossible!)?

Thanks again for your help!

Rich

[old_master]

Most auto parts stores have the release tool. You will need two sizes: 3/8" and 5/16". Lower the tank far enough to access the connectors, being careful not to break the plastic lines and connectors. There are 3 lines attached to the fuel pump module, disconnect them and the electrical connector and filler hose and drop the tank. Clean the area around the module before removing module.

[maxwedge]

Just as a side note to the thorough info old master has forwarded, watch for burnt connector issues at the harness connector to the pump., it is common.

[ricrog]

Thanks guys for the advice. One question though...these are plastic connectors with what feels like square access holes cut into each side of the connector. Based on my Haynes manual, these require a screwdriver to push and release the connector. The tool I find at the auto store looks like it is for the metal lines. Am I correct or am I missing something obvious?

Or, regardless of the type of connector, do I need to wait until I have the tank lowered some before attempting to get to the connectors?

Thanks again for your sage advice!

Rich

[old_master]

Lower the tank enough to get your hands to the connectors. The information in the Haynes manual should be taken lightly, very lightly! DO NOT use a screwdriver to release the retainers, they will break. If you tell the auto parts store you need a fuel line disconnect tool, they'll know what you need. Here is a link to one: http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...egoryCode=2109 It fits over the line, clamps against itself, slides into the fuel line connector and releases both tabs simutaneously. Rotate the connector back and forth and slide it off. When reconnecting, a couple drops of oil will make assembly very easy.

[ricrog]

Old Master, thanks for the help! I'm pretty confident I have an understanding about what it will take to get the line disconnected.

I appreciate your advice!

Rich

[ricrog]

Well, we (a neighbor and myself) worked on the fuel pump replacement for about 3 hours last week and got everything done with no real problems (thanks to everyones great advice).

But, I have noticed now that my fuel gauge seems to respond very slowly. When I park in our drive (it is sloped), I find that my fuel gauge will read about 1/4 of a tank higher than what it was when I parked it. As I drive, it will slowly return to the reading I had when I first parked but it takes probably 10 minutes of driving before that happens. Anybody have any ideas why? I am certain I did not bend the float arm.

Thanks!
Rich

[old_master]

There's an electronic buffer built in to the fuel level sending unit. Some manufacturers buffer systems react more slowly than others, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

[gary-stidham]

i have heard that the pumps like to go out so cut a access hole so you can reachit from under the seat the po did this on my 98 and when i had to replace mine i pulled the carpet back uncrueed a metal plate and changed my pump
since i have heard stories of the pumps going out at 45xxx to 80xxx miles it might be a good idea