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  #1  
Old 06-11-2008, 04:01 PM
mcgee139 mcgee139 is offline
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Wheel bearings

Hello my brother and I are changing his front wheel bearings this week end dose anyone have step by step instructions on how to do this and torque specs? Thanks
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Old 06-12-2008, 01:57 AM
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Classicrocjunkie Classicrocjunkie is offline
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Re: Wheel bearings

there use to be a site with a photo step by step, but its no longer up and running.

185 ft/lbs on the nut

remove caliper, rotor, pads
either a t-55 or t-50 bit ( i don't remember for sure off the top of my head)

There is a sweet spot hole in the bearing which the torx bit goes through. (3 bolts)

You will need a breaker bar, they are on tight as hell and will probably be rusted.

If you want to put the seal in back, drop the ball joint or the strut bolts.

re-tighten the torx bolts to 85-90 ft/lbs

thats pretty much it, a background of mechanical knowledge will help and make this quite easier. My record time was 23 mins a side. from jacking car up in the air to back down with a new bearing in place. I could probably do them in my sleep now.

A first timer will probably tale you 45mins-hr per side.
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Old 06-12-2008, 12:12 PM
mcgee139 mcgee139 is offline
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Re: Wheel bearings

Thanks a lot!! Do you know what size the front axle nut is some say its a 35mm and others say its a 36mm this way i can go and buy the right one
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Old 06-13-2008, 11:34 PM
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Re: Wheel bearings

30mm.
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Old 06-14-2008, 12:56 AM
mcgee139 mcgee139 is offline
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Re: Wheel bearings

Thank a lot
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:25 AM
Jacfourteen Jacfourteen is offline
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Re: Wheel bearings

The 30mm has to be a deep well too.
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:10 PM
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Re: Wheel bearings

Hey Classicrocjunkie (or anyone else),

Hoping you can help out a Canuck working out in -34C weather today...

Trying to replace the bearing assembly. Having trouble removing the old hub assembly. Got the caliper, rotor off but am struggling to get access to the 3 Torx bolts. The problem is, I cannot simply rotate the assemby to get the 'sweet spot hole' around to then get my torx bit in there. Because of the spline shaft, when I try to rotate the assembly, I am ultimately trying to rotate the driveshaft and I simply can't do it. How does a person do it?

Do you have to completely disconnect the steering knuckle and then slip it off the shaft? At this point, I will settle for replacing just the assembly, nevermind the seal in the back.

Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:47 PM
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Re: Wheel bearings

Please ignore, solved my problem. Seriously think the cold in the Canadian winters makes me stupid :-)

A note for the complete stupid: MAKE SURE YOU SUPPORT THE ENTIRE FRONT END!!! Can't just jack up one wheel at a time...

See previous post for some laughter :-)

DUH!!!
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Old 12-21-2008, 08:51 PM
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Re: Wheel bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgee139
Hello my brother and I are changing his front wheel bearings this week end dose anyone have step by step instructions on how to do this and torque specs? Thanks
as stated in another thread

there are reasons for a front bearing to wear

1. where the cv shafts recently replaced? as the shafts are #1 cause for a bearing to wear quickly

2. if they have not been replaced, thoroughly inspect them, and the boots on both ends to tranny and hub, if boots are craked/broken replace the shafts.

3. having all these parts off check tie rods, ball joints, brakes, calipers. replace parts as time and $$ permits,

4. i dont recommend replacing bearings with bad shafts, replace shafts first then the bearings

5. if tie rod ends, ball joints are replaced take to have alignment done

some may say just replace the bearing, it is not recommend to just replace a worn bearing but the whole hub/bearing assembly


good luck
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