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| Cavalier Problem Diagnosis Got a problem you can't fix? We can help. |
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#1
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Wheel bearings
Hello my brother and I are changing his front wheel bearings this week end dose anyone have step by step instructions on how to do this and torque specs? Thanks
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#2
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Re: Wheel bearings
there use to be a site with a photo step by step, but its no longer up and running.
185 ft/lbs on the nut remove caliper, rotor, pads either a t-55 or t-50 bit ( i don't remember for sure off the top of my head) There is a sweet spot hole in the bearing which the torx bit goes through. (3 bolts) You will need a breaker bar, they are on tight as hell and will probably be rusted. If you want to put the seal in back, drop the ball joint or the strut bolts. re-tighten the torx bolts to 85-90 ft/lbs thats pretty much it, a background of mechanical knowledge will help and make this quite easier. My record time was 23 mins a side. from jacking car up in the air to back down with a new bearing in place. I could probably do them in my sleep now. A first timer will probably tale you 45mins-hr per side.
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Please don't PM me with your J-body Issues. Post appropriately in the forums, and I will toss my opinion in your thread if I have anything to help. - Thanks! 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer 2010 Glastron GT 205XL |
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#3
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Re: Wheel bearings
Thanks a lot!! Do you know what size the front axle nut is some say its a 35mm and others say its a 36mm this way i can go and buy the right one
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#4
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Re: Wheel bearings
30mm.
__________________
Please don't PM me with your J-body Issues. Post appropriately in the forums, and I will toss my opinion in your thread if I have anything to help. - Thanks! 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer 2010 Glastron GT 205XL |
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#5
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Re: Wheel bearings
Thank a lot
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#6
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Re: Wheel bearings
The 30mm has to be a deep well too.
__________________
99 Explorer (my daily driver) -2" lift, 31" tires -Magnaflow muffler -7" Touch screen DVD stereo -12" drop down LCD monitor 02 Mustang Convertible (wife's) -K&N Filter -Flowmaster 50 -7" Touch screen DVD stereo 68 GMC (project) -300 HP 350 |
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#7
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Re: Wheel bearings
Hey Classicrocjunkie (or anyone else),
Hoping you can help out a Canuck working out in -34C weather today... Trying to replace the bearing assembly. Having trouble removing the old hub assembly. Got the caliper, rotor off but am struggling to get access to the 3 Torx bolts. The problem is, I cannot simply rotate the assemby to get the 'sweet spot hole' around to then get my torx bit in there. Because of the spline shaft, when I try to rotate the assembly, I am ultimately trying to rotate the driveshaft and I simply can't do it. How does a person do it? Do you have to completely disconnect the steering knuckle and then slip it off the shaft? At this point, I will settle for replacing just the assembly, nevermind the seal in the back. Thanks. |
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#8
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Re: Wheel bearings
Please ignore, solved my problem. Seriously think the cold in the Canadian winters makes me stupid :-)
A note for the complete stupid: MAKE SURE YOU SUPPORT THE ENTIRE FRONT END!!! Can't just jack up one wheel at a time... See previous post for some laughter :-) DUH!!! |
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#9
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Re: Wheel bearings
Quote:
there are reasons for a front bearing to wear 1. where the cv shafts recently replaced? as the shafts are #1 cause for a bearing to wear quickly 2. if they have not been replaced, thoroughly inspect them, and the boots on both ends to tranny and hub, if boots are craked/broken replace the shafts. 3. having all these parts off check tie rods, ball joints, brakes, calipers. replace parts as time and $$ permits, 4. i dont recommend replacing bearings with bad shafts, replace shafts first then the bearings 5. if tie rod ends, ball joints are replaced take to have alignment done some may say just replace the bearing, it is not recommend to just replace a worn bearing but the whole hub/bearing assembly good luck |
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