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#1
06-03-2008, 11:08 PM
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99 JGC AC Compressor
Just acquired 99 JGCL with 4.0 and auto trans. AC compressor wont come on. Fan blows fine. Freon pressure good, tried jumping both high and low switches, verified power to AC clutch relay, and can hear relay engage. Yet, NO power at compressor clutch electrical connection no matter what I try. Clutch turns well by hand. Help! Any ideas?
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#2
06-12-2008, 06:31 PM
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Re: 99 JGC AC Compressor
Moving this to the Cherokee forum (even though yours is a Grand), there are a lot of knowledgeable people there and the systems should be identical or close to it.
__________________
Ours: 2020 Jeep Wrangler 2.0, 53k 2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser, 84k Kids: 2005 Honda CRV, 228k
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#3
06-12-2008, 07:14 PM
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Re: 99 JGC AC Compressor
If Fred says it's OK here, then so be it.
Follow the wire from the clutch. It shoudl have a disconnect. Disconect it and run 12v straight to the clutch and see if it engages. If it does, and you're SURE the charge is not too l low and the switches are fine, then the relay choked. How did you test the refrigerant charge?
__________________
Dad's taxi: '88 XJ - 190K and going strong. K&N, Ford Injectors, No other mods
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#4
06-19-2008, 07:20 PM
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Re: 99 JGC AC Compressor
Sorry for delay - tried to jump directly off battery, no luck. Could it be air gap on clutch? Long story on pressure check, but bottom line a shop put gauges on and said charge was good. At same time I seem to be fighting an electrical gremlin here. Wiring is definitely factory to my eye, but it doesn't match any wiring diagram I can find in Haynes manual or anywhere else online. When I jump both switches there seems to be a voltage bleed off somewhere around low pressure switch. I've taken all wiring out of casings and can find no problems. I'm really stuck!
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#5
06-20-2008, 09:44 AM
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Re: 99 JGC AC Compressor
Well, if you correctly jumped the clutch, then it's either the wiring, or possibly the air gap. Get an ohm meter and check the resitance from the connector to the clutch and the AC housing. Make sure you get a clean spot. I don't know the spec but it shouldn't be more than a few ohms. If it's shows open (a break), then the clutch is toast. You could try peeling back some insulation about an inch or so from the connector and try there in case the wire broken by the crimp.
If it shows a few ohms, then put 12v back to the clutch and try pushing in on the plate (of course, wth the engine off!). If the air gap got too large, pushing should get tit to snap into place and hold.
__________________
Dad's taxi: '88 XJ - 190K and going strong. K&N, Ford Injectors, No other mods
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