Muscle Car rumble for a driver?

[Haddix]

I have a 68 Chrysler 300 2dr hardtop 440/727. It's very original, 100k miles, always garaged. I recently purchased it from my wife's grandpa. Long story short, I drive it about 100 miles a week, it runs awesome.

I want to get a good 60's muscle car sound out of it and a bit more power. I know that if I throw a nasty cam in it and a single plane intake I will hurt the streetability. I was considering doing something like a 238* duration .480 lift cam, edelbrock performer RPM intake, custom long tube headers and dual exhaust.

Just wondering if this would be too wild for a 100 mile a week car?

All input appreciated. Thanks

[maxwedge]

More info on the cam, what is the duration at .050, who's cam?

[Haddix]

Summit Cam number SUM-K6401

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:224Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:234Duration at 050 inch Lift:224 int./234 exh.Advertised Intake Duration:282Advertised Exhaust Duration:292Advertised Duration:282 int./292 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.465 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.488 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.465 int./0.488 exh. liftLobe Separation (degrees):114

[maxwedge]

This is a somewhat agressive cam, it will hurt the low end performance with a heavy car with low numerical gearing, I think it is a bit too much here.

[sub006]

Before doing anything to a good-runnning engine internally, I'd fit a 3" dual exhaust with Flowmasters or other performance mufflers. Try to listen to the different brands and models to find the tone you like. If your choice ends up a little too loud for your taste, you can always add a balance (cross-over)pipe to tone it down.

Next step would be headers. These can be a PIA on the street because steel expands and contracts differently under heat than the iron of your heads. They're always trying to work loose. Your speed shop has special locking bolts that help, but it usually takes a while to get everything settled in. Headers will add to your sound, but not much if any to power and mileage in street use through mufflers.

While you're at it, at least upgrade to a K & N air filter element.

[MrPbody]

I wouldn't touch it! Those 300s are rare as hen's teeth and relatively valuable.

Under no conditions would I use a 3" exhaust. While "popular" these days, NOT a good thing. An engine OVER 500 CID will benefit from it. All others will generally lose low-speed power. 2 1/2" are more called for yet not as popular. The factory exhaust manifolds are hard to beat, too, on this engine.

Summit cams are "generi-grinds", found for sale in several other brands. ALL are compromise and none are modern in nature. For the best performance increase, avoid the high-rate ramp cams. A Comp "Dual Energy" cam would be more appropriate. I like the 265DEH grind. We used a similar grind in our 428 Catalina wagon and got 15 MPG on its "maiden" voyage.

Fuel is an issue with this engine. High compression ratios of those days is not compatible with today's limp-noodle gas. You should verify the static compression ratio and assure the correct octane is being used. Detonation will KILL that engine.

In short, this engine will NOT respond in the desired manner to all the current "buzz word" modifications. Walk softly, do research. Don't just throw a lot of cliches at it!

Jim

[sub006]

'Scuse me, Jim, but my son's '63 Chevy II 388" SBC with 1 1/2" headers (didn't want to cut the side panels), 3" stainless exhaust and Flowmasters tries to do wheelies. When Currie finshes his new narrowed-housing 9" with traction bar setup, they expect it will.

Seems like a 440 Mopar would have about as much torque, though in a much heavier package. And the owner said he wants to hear rumble, not necessarily race the barge.