okay so this 91 civ is pissing me off

[readallen]

it was throwing out the code 16(fuel injector) when i would go to start it every once and a while. the one day after a month of having it stalled when i was driving and i had the cluch depressed and coasting. then on the way to work it started acting like the it was not getting enough fuel when i pressed on the gas, so it i thought my fuel pump was getting weak although it never stalled, anyway the car is not starting and the weird thing is that the last time the car started, usually it would take 4 to 5 role overs of the engine to start, and the last time it started almost instantly after turning the key and dies 2 seconds later, so now im think it could be the main relay , so any ideas,,,,, p.s. please don't say it is a failing fuel injector because they are 164.95 at auto zone ---------- thanks

[Tony]

Check your main relay. I have heard you can easily take them apart and re-solder them(seems to be the main reason they go bad). And I would also look into replacing your fuel filter if you haven't already.

[readallen]

would anybody know a good way check the fuel pressure with a fuel guage that hooks up to the "shuarader" (wrongspeeling) value on gms and fords, thanks and Damn it rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaaa aaaa, rrra

[readallen]

and i have SPARE MAIN RELAY AND FUEL PUMP SO IM OK THERE- THANKS TO THE JESUSES FOR THAT

[FrodoGT]

I would also check the fuel filter. And if you need an injector just go to the damn junkyard lol, stick it in your pocket and buy something that they will actually care about..or try ebay.

[readallen]

I had a chance to work on it today and it has a good main relay , the fuel pump is kicking on, there is voltage at the injectors, I checked the spark and it was orangish and weak, I took off the cap and the screw holding the rotor on was very, very loose, i cleaned the contacts in there and tighted it all back down, and checked the spark and it was now blueish white spark, and the engine still would not fire. it gets lots of gas(likely flooded), because it running out the exhaust after cranking the engine(and I changed the fuel filter). it is not putting out any code and it still flashes once when I turn the key. So I am guessing the timing jumped, and i would greatly appreciate any ideas on this, i have not done a compression test on it, but i did roll the engine over with a ratchet and could feel lots of resistance(clutch pedal was depressed). I have read the other treads on setting the timing but I am still uncertain on checking and correcting the timing. thanks

[readallen]

I seen the timing marks on the crank pulley, did not see the mark on the plastic cover behind it, i probally should clean off all that greasy gunk off of it. what does it take to get the timing cover off and to check this belt? and one more ? what cylinder is this mark for , the one by the belts or the dizzy? thanks

[Christ]

the mark is for #1, by the belts (always on inline engines, it's the "front" of the engine.

the timing cover will come off w/ 1 or 3 bolts... can't remember how many, but they're all 10mm.

[readallen]

I see said the blind man -- that would make perfect sense. and i see the two bolts by the valve cover, and one sticking out the middle on the thing and i was hoping that was it that holds the cover on, but to adjust or replace the timing belt, that has to be a different and difficult story

[readallen]

I was planning on replacing the timing belt and tensioner when I bought the car I haven't got to it, so anyways I am inquiring on our opinions on timing belt and tensioner brands --- bad, good, and the very best. what is your opinion


common brands- beck arnley, dayco, gatorback, crp, master pro(MBH), ae clevite, sealed power, gates,...

[FrodoGT]

Doesnt really matter what brand you get, they will all do the job. And to replace the belt youll need to get the drank pulley off, which will be the most difficult (really the only difficult) part, and also need to remove the driver side mount.

[readallen]

ok, the brands that snap the least

[FrodoGT]

As I said. They all work the same. When I say that I mean that they are all manufactured and designed to meet or exceed oem specifications. Which is 70k mi under heavy driving or severe conditions, according to the service manual. If any of the manufacterers belts breaks before then I would consider it defective or improperly installed.

Unless your running some serious horsepower there is no need to invest in a specifically high performance belt. It wont last any longer, itll just handle 600hp lol.

[readallen]

thanks -great point, i am unclear on how to block the engine when removing the crank pulley bolt.

[Tony]

If your pulley has holes around it, the most common and effect way is finding 2 bolts, or something that will fit in the holes, wedge a long bar between those and either the front crossmember or the rear crossmember. Then get a really long breaker bar/cheat pipe to break the bolt loose.

If you have one of the new style pulleys with the big hex around the bolt, the only way I have been able to get those off is with the specific tool to hold them or with a big impact.