98 Duratec won't start

[krisci3]

Cranks just fine, and had run earlier in the day. Have not had any symptoms until now. Where's the best place to start on this one? Fuel filter, pump, injectors, plugs? Thanks for any suggestions!

[shorod]

General tune up items are always good to start with as they should be done anyway. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, that would be a good thing to check too. Also, how old is the battery? Even though it has enough juice to crank the engine over, it may not have enough capacity to support the electronics necessary to keep the engine running. Also, what does the "Theft" indicator in the instrument cluster do when you try to start the car?

If you don't have access to a fuel pressure gauge, you could try spraying some throttle body cleaner or similar in to one of the vacuum ports on the intake air tubing and see if that will get the car to start and run for a short time. If so, that points to a fuel issue (filter or more likely, pump).

The Duratech will also have a tough time starting if the secondary intake runners are stuck open (Intake Manifold Runner Control - IMRC). Additionally, you'll want to check the EGR valve to see if it is possible stuck open.

The engine sound like it wants to fire, or just a constant crank with no sputters?

-Rod

[krisci3]

No sputters, just cranks, doesn't even sound as if it wants to fire. The battery is relatively new, maybe a couple years old.

Figured I'd have to check all those things, just wasn't sure the best place to start. If it was the filter, wouldn't I have noticed some performance issues beforehand?

I'll check the theft indicator. Would it even turn over if there was a problem with that? Would trying the other key make a difference? The keys don't have batteries per se but I assume there's some kind of programming in them?

[shorod]

Sounds like a fuel issue unless you're getting absolutely no spark. It may be quicker to test for spark. If you verify you have good spark, then I'd suspect fuel (try the spray in the intake suggestion) to see if that gets it to start. It wouldn't be that hard for me to believe a 10-year old vehicle needs a fuel pump.

I expect your '98 to have PATS/SecurLock which uses a transponder key. They don't require batteries, but do need to be programmed to the PATS module. Usually the PATS system will not disable the starter but will disable the fuel injectors or spark. Trying your other key would be worth a try, especially if the "Theft" indicator is blinking rapidly when you attempt to start the car.

-Rod

[krisci3]

Hooray! It's running again! Now the challenge for those of you in automotiveforums land is to find out what I did. I'll give you a hint, it only took a finger. You have 24 hours...

Spark was good.
Fuel was good.
Fuel pump was good.
Fuel filter was good.
Battery was good.
Theft/PATS system was okay.
No EGR problems.

[shorod]

When you typed "Fuel was good" did you mean physically the fuel was good, not old or saturated with water, or did you mean the fuel pressure was good?

If the former is what you meant, then it sounds like you had to reset the inertia switch. If that's correct, did you figure out what tripped the switch to begin with?

-Rod

[tripletdaddy]

Hey, let's try keeping it clean around here. Giving your car the finger......:

My vote's for the inertia switch too.

[krisci3]

You got it, it was the inertia switch! I was just about ready to put the car on blocks and drop the fuel tank before I checked it. No idea why it tripped, I've got a bit of a bump from the street to my driveway but it's never happened before. Is is possible that the switch could be wearing out? It's not the kind of thing I want happening while I'm flying down the freeway!

[shorod]

I had one apart years ago and, if they haven't changed the design, it should be difficult for it to wear out. The trigger mechanism is a magnetic cone, upside down. There is a steel ball bearing that normally resides in the peak (bottom of inverted cone) of the cone. Above the large diameter of the cone is a mechanical spring loaded lever. If the assembly experiences enough of a peak to overcome the magnetic force on the bearing, the bearing will tap the spring-loaded lever which trips the switch and opens the circuit to the fuel pump. The magnet and steel ball won't wear out. I suppose the spring could break or become disconnected, or maybe one of the plastic levers could break/become brittle, but then you probably wouldn't be able to reset the switch.

-Rod