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#1
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Shaving moldings
I was curious how to go about shaving the moldings on the side. What do you use to do it? Weld over it or body filler? thanx
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#2
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yeah you have to use a body filler than you have to sand it out! you have to put lots of time in it! cuz you want to be smooth and even! dont forget to put primer after for the paint!
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#3
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you use primer before you paint. primer over the filler then seal the primer then paint
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95 b18b new crank, eagle rods, je 10.5 : 1 pistons, 8lb flywheel, stage 3 act clutch, billet aluminium and urathane mounts, balanced rotating mass, 14.3 @ 93mph New additions, teo4h turbo, ssautochrome turbo manifold, custom piping, turboxs bov, dsm 450cc injectors, greddy e-manage fuel controller 13.07 @ 107 untuned |
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#4
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yeah he was saying to use primer after the sanding and everything for painting, so sand, primer, paint... he had it right hte first time, just maybe not worded the best way
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The Civic is gone... The Camry never ran... The Chevy is here to stay... The Ultimate Honda Engine
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#5
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Pull off the mouldings
Sand down to bare metal with a 80grit sandpaper bondo, or body filler, whatever you have SAND-SAND-SAND start with a 80grit, move to 120grit, then finish off with a 300grit. I'm starting this on my car when the weather warms up. |
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#6
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u can use bodyfiller but i prefere 2 use fiberglass, it goes over nice and easy and if u choose 2 use bodyfiller u'll see one of the probs with it, it likes 2 drip down inside the door and takes a longer time to do it.
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94 s-10 bagged, body dropped, 22's, suicide coupe doors, fully shaved, and soon a small block 350 2011 Silverado... Stock Daily driver
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#7
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What the hell!!!
NEVER USE BONDO FOR MAJOR BODY WORK LIKE SHAVING!!! Weld some metal to round out the spot for the molding, and then use a little bit of bondo to smooth it up. Fiberglass also works nicely.
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2007 dodge ram hemi sport-the tow/dd 1993 Civic HB-h22 with type s pistons, 125 shot, and some other goodies 1989 CRX(in the works)-h2b plus maybe some spray, or some boost |
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#8
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I agree bondo is shitty. And Fiberglass is HELLA hard to sand.
my solution ?? DURAGLASS <<<------- That shit is strong, if it's preped right, you wont have any problems |
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#9
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i like marglass the shit is nice. and it is thick but i agree welding is the best way but if you arnt skilled you will warp the thin metal on your door and that aint good.
__________________
95 b18b new crank, eagle rods, je 10.5 : 1 pistons, 8lb flywheel, stage 3 act clutch, billet aluminium and urathane mounts, balanced rotating mass, 14.3 @ 93mph New additions, teo4h turbo, ssautochrome turbo manifold, custom piping, turboxs bov, dsm 450cc injectors, greddy e-manage fuel controller 13.07 @ 107 untuned |
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#10
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if u want all metal, fill it in with weld and grind all thats sticking out off, haha nah i'm j/p but i'm sticking with using fiberglass, i love it and its not hard 2 sand, well for me anyways, i got body files and stuff so that helps and sanding just smoothes it out for me
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94 s-10 bagged, body dropped, 22's, suicide coupe doors, fully shaved, and soon a small block 350 2011 Silverado... Stock Daily driver
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#11
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ok so wait. if i use fiberglass first, and then just fill in the tiny divits and stuff with bondo, should i be ok? or should i find someone to weld a metal piece in there? if i just use the fiberglass and the bondo will lines show? thanks.
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#12
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DONT use just bondo. i tried this and if u push on it when its done it pops out. it will fall out anyways sooner or later. Im still working on techniques to fill the damn holes in.
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#13
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come on you guys.....ok if you were to use fiberglass you WILL NEED to put something behind it unless you want to replace it all of the time....
The reason for it is beacause....well think of it like this you are covering up a hole with a peice of paper....sure it looks good but as soon as it get bumped into......POOF broken....so I would either put in something behind it or weld something in there....just my 2 cents
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This is the real melt pizzle |
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#14
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use marglass it is a very thick filler that contains fiberglass stands
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95 b18b new crank, eagle rods, je 10.5 : 1 pistons, 8lb flywheel, stage 3 act clutch, billet aluminium and urathane mounts, balanced rotating mass, 14.3 @ 93mph New additions, teo4h turbo, ssautochrome turbo manifold, custom piping, turboxs bov, dsm 450cc injectors, greddy e-manage fuel controller 13.07 @ 107 untuned |
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