Blower Motor Resistor

[ICCS]

Greetings,

Looks like it's time to change the resistor......again.... Last time I had a mechanic change it for me. He had a bitch of a time changing it. Since then I've changed the blower motor myself. This was not difficult and I managed without a problem. So, now I'm contemplating changing the resistor myself.

I found a link in the past discussions on this topic and it noted that one should take the blower motor out first then change the resistor.

My question. Given that I'm familiar with this area of the vehicle and have changed the blower motor myself, what should I be weary of, if anything, tackling this job myself? I assume it's pretty straight forward, other then it's a bit of a bitch of a location. Good thing I'm left handed :-)

Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[richtazz]

The two back bolts toward the firewall are tough to get to. The bolt holes in the resistor are slotted, so you only have to loosen them slightly to slide the resistor out. Definitley take the blower motor out, as access to the resistor is almost impossible without doing so. Check for moisture in the heater housing. If the cowl seal under the hood has shifted, it will allow water in and that is what shorts out the replacement resistors. If this is the case, you'll need to re-seal the cowl inlet. Also, get a cabin air filter for a like year Buick Regal (Grand Prix's have the spot for them, but GM didn't put one in from the factory AC-Delco part #CF132). The cabin air filter keeps both dust and debris out of the HVAC system, as well as creates a better seal against future water intrusion.

[ICCS]

Hello,

Originally Posted by richtazz

The two back bolts toward the firewall are tough to get to.

That would account for the troubles the mechanic had. In fact I don't recall that he took the blower motor out, so he probably made it tougher for himself?

Check for moisture in the heater housing. Also, get a cabin air filter for a like year Buick Regal (Grand Prix's have the spot for them, but GM didn't put one in from the factory AC-Delco part #CF132).

I was reading about this. In fact I had a look the other day. If I'm correct you can see if this filter has been installed by looking into the vent from outside just under the hood on the right side. Is that correct? When I looked the other day, it looked as if there was a filter in there? I'm not completely certain, but there was something white in/down there.

Many thanks for the reply.

Pete.

[richtazz]

Originally Posted by ICCS

Hello,

I was reading about this. In fact I had a look the other day. If I'm correct you can see if this filter has been installed by looking into the vent from outside just under the hood on the right side. Is that correct? When I looked the other day, it looked as if there was a filter in there? I'm not completely certain, but there was something white in/down there.

Many thanks for the reply.

Pete.

You are correct as to the location, but you have to pull the cover off to inspect the seal condition and whether a filter has been installed.

[ICCS]

Originally Posted by richtazz

You are correct as to the location, but you have to pull the cover off to inspect the seal condition and whether a filter has been installed.

Will do. Appreciate the help and advice.

Thanks,

Pete.

[ICCS]

Hey there,

Well I changed the resistor and all is working now. If I had to do that for a living I think I'd shoot myself :-) It's not that it's particularly difficult, it's just the way you have to contort yourself restricts your mobility to work.

Thanks for your help.

Pete.

[richtazz]

ICCS, you posted a question in another older thread as to weather you'd have to undo what you already did (*changing your resistor) to fix the water intrusion issue. The answer is no. The cowl seal is under the hood, below the plastic cover along the top of the firewall by the passenger side wiper blade. The seal under the cover in the cowl (where the cabin air filter sits if you choose to add one) fails and allows water in. You'll have to remove the cover and apply RTV to re-seal it, but it has nothing to do with the motor or resistor installation.

[ICCS]

Originally Posted by richtazz

ICCS, you posted a question in another older thread as to weather you'd have to undo what you already did (*changing your resistor) to fix the water intrusion issue. The answer is no. The cowl seal is under the hood, below the plastic cover along the top of the firewall by the passenger side wiper blade. The seal under the cover in the cowl (where the cabin air filter sits if you choose to add one) fails and allows water in. You'll have to remove the cover and apply RTV to re-seal it, but it has nothing to do with the motor or resistor installation.

Hello,

Whew. I was hoping I didn't have to crawl back under there. I will look after this while I'm changing/or adding a cabin air filter. Not sure there is one in the car?

Can you clarify what RTV is? Not familiar with this. Is it a sealant/adhesive of some type? I'm in Canada so perhaps a suitable trade name would put me on the right track.

Many thanks for all your help.

Pete.

[richtazz]

Yes, RTV a rubber sealant (commonly called Silicone) that comes in a tube that is applied in a bead to make a sealing strip.

[ICCS]

Originally Posted by richtazz

Yes, RTV a rubber sealant (commonly called Silicone) that comes in a tube that is applied in a bead to make a sealing strip.

Picked up the cabin air filter and some silicon just in case. Did the job this morning without any difficulties. I can't imagine why they don't install this filter from the factory. That deflector piece (made of rubber) was in very good shape and was pretty much firmly intact. Only the ends were a little loose so I applied some silicon to that. I'm thinking that I shouldn't experience any water problems now? I was reading something about one last item to check, the AC drain. I'm not 100 percent sure where exactly it is or what it looks like. I'll try and find a photo of it and then check it for clogging.

Speaking of the cabin air filter. I purchased it at Partsource here in Toronto. $30.00. For the hell of it I called a dealer just to see how much they were asking. $63.79. Unreal the price difference.

Once again the "auto forums" come through. My sincere thanks again.

Pete.

[BNaylor]

Yeah we noticed out friends up North pay more for their car parts. Last cabin air filter I purchased only cost $10.00 US although it was a Bosch brand but it works.

On the drain it is located at the bottom part of the firewall passenger side of car behind the engine. Look down or from underneath with a good lighting source and you will see. it. Carefully run a wire through it to check for a clog.

[ICCS]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

Yeah we noticed out friends up North pay more for their car parts. Last cabin air filter I purchased only cost $10.00 US although it was a Bosch brand but it works.

On the drain it is located at the bottom part of the firewall passenger side of car behind the engine. Look down or from underneath with a good lighting source and you will see. it. Carefully run a wire through it to check for a clog.

Thanks very much. I will look for it and do as suggested. Today is shaping up to be a beautiful day and I am planning to wash, clay bar, seal, and wax the car. Takes a while to all that, but the results are well worth it.

Cheers,

Pete.

[dingzhijia]

i just change blower motor resistor last week but it doesn't work again, and . someone told me maybe my blower motor is also not good although it still work. this sometimes will cause too much current in the resistor. is that right?
i have another small question, if A/C system uses different quantity of electricity from wind speed 1 to speed 5? i prefer not to change it if speed 5 consume the same electricity as speed 1.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by dingzhijia

i just change blower motor resistor last week but it doesn't work again, and . someone told me maybe my blower motor is also not good although it still work. this sometimes will cause too much current in the resistor. is that right?
i have another small question, if A/C system uses different quantity of electricity from wind speed 1 to speed 5? i prefer not to change it if speed 5 consume the same electricity as speed 1.

If the blower works in position 5 then the blower motor is most likely good. Positions 1-4 and 5 do not use the same 12 volts. Position 5 gets its 12 volts directly off the battery supply where 1-4 gets it via the climate control head unit.

Sounds like you have another issue like wiring, bad ground or possibly an ignition switch problem.

[ICCS]

Originally Posted by dingzhijia

i just change blower motor resistor last week but it doesn't work again, and . someone told me maybe my blower motor is also not good although it still work. this sometimes will cause too much current in the resistor. is that right?
i have another small question, if A/C system uses different quantity of electricity from wind speed 1 to speed 5? i prefer not to change it if speed 5 consume the same electricity as speed 1.

Sorry dingzhijia,

Your question is beyond my knowledge. I'm not a mechanic, just a guy who likes to fix things if I can. I'm afraid I can't help you. I ask more questions then I answer. :-) I see you received a reply though. The guys on the forum here are excellent. Every time I've asked a question I've received prompt replies with all the answers. I've no doubt saved some money by being able to do the job myself based on the information I received.

Cheers.