rigid to flex brake line help needed!

[northern piper]

So last night I started to replace the shoes on the rear end of my 2000 3.8. I had a delamination of one of the shoes. In starting this job I learned that both wheel cylinders had one really stiff/jammed "slider" so I decided to replace both cylinders. I managed to get one of the brake lines off at the cylinder but broke the second line. So, I have a replacement but am concerned that where the flex/rubber line joins the rigid one at the frame is going to be a really tough one to detach. How is the best way to get this line off? I don't want to have to keep going further back as I think all the connections will be corroded. Has anyone used the new loctite freeze release spray? Normally I just heat up any stubborn bolts, nuts etc but don't want to on this brake line.

I'm doing this job in 3 hours so please offer advice!

Piper

[phil-l]

Yes, this can be tough.

I've had to remove several brake lines at a rigid/flex joint - and am always careful.

Of course, you also already know: Lots of PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil. I'm not familiar with freeze release spray, so can't comment. I'd also be wary of heating a brake line.

Are you using flare wrenches on the fittings? It took me awhile to finally invest in both an SAE and metric set - but I'm glad I did. Properly supporting both the rigid and flex sides of the connection while applying torque is critical.

I've also had good luck tapping troublesome fasteners with an appropriate punch - and careful use of a hammer.

I hope it works out well for you!

[12Ounce]

I've never had much trouble separating such couplings ... but I don't live in road-salt country, and I know that has a negative impact. Don't know how you fellows put up with all that corrosion!

I would recommend heavy soaking with something ... WD40, Rust Buster, or something ... the longer the better.

If it gets away from you and you damage the rigid tube, you can always work your way back to the ABS unit using off-the-shelf lengths of steel tubing. Make sure that you purchase steel brake tubing with "double-flared" ends. Usually available at NAPA or brake supply shops. WARNING: You will have to get a special bending tool or else you will kink the tubing as you try to bend it.

I also agree ... ya gotta use flare nut wrenches.

[northern piper]

Well I'm back from the job. Gotta admit, the pb blaster is magic stuff. I sprayed some on last night around 9 pm and started the job today at 1 pm. I used my flair nut wrench and the connector came off very easyThe only problem I had was the new wheel cylinder didn't have any threads on the inside of the hole to accept the new line WTF?? So, I went to my regular auto parts place and bought a third cylinder and will return to Canadian tire the one without threads. Talk about a 1 hour job gone horribly wrong.

Anyway, things are buttoned up now and I think it looks ok. I'll do a highway run tomorrow and make sure.

I never did get the loctite freeze stuff so I guess we'll all just have to keep on wonderin'

Piper

[12Ounce]

Female hole without the threads .... Hmmm, why do I think "made in the Orient"???

[northern piper]

I'm not so surprised really. It's a cylinder made by Jasper (who?) that's for Canadian tire. My only choice last night at 7:30 pm. When I went to get a new one today from my normal auto parts place it was a better unit and less expensive. Go figure. Just did a highway run 10 minutes ago and things look good. Just have to check the lines again and I think I'm done. Next, new rubber all 'round tomorrow. Eek, more $$$$


Piper

[phil-l]

Piper -

I'm glad the job worked out, in spite of the hassles.

I put new tires on our Windstar last year - Yokohama Avid Touring, through Tire Rack. They've been great.