Running Hot, but not overheating

[Nitro23]

On a recent 3000 mile trip (after head gasket replacement) my van starting runnning hotter. 2 clicks over 210. My van has always run hot and has always bugged me.

Finally, I decide to replace the last part of the cooling system that is original - the radiator.

After pulling the radiator, I found the damn thing is caked with dirt in 2 perfect circles where the fans are. What's wild is you can never see the "clog" because it's on the side behind the AC condensor/radiator. My radiator probably only had 10-20 % air flow capability.

I never had a flucuating temperature, just ran higher than normal.

I don't have the new radiator installed yet, will post when I know the results after completion. I am pretty sure that this is the higher temp issue though.

[Will Help]

Could also have been a factor in your earlier head gasket problems. Excess heat creates excess pressures.

[Nitro23]

Folks need to understand these are VERY HEAT sensitive motors.

Unlike others, I think this is a very good motor if maintained. The biggest trouble is diagnosing the heat problem.

When I went to remove the heads on my motor, both exhaust manifold bolts were gone from the # 2 cylinder. In addition, the head was cracked at the #2 hole. The motor mount covers this part of the motor, thus extra heat/ hot spot on the head.

I nursed this motor for 165,000 miles before doing the first LIM gasket. I also switched to the green suff at 36,000.

[Nitro23]

New RAD installed.

Major difference in cooling.

According to the gauge it's running 1 click below 210 now. So it's 2 clicks cooler. I think the clicks are 12-14 degrees, so definitely 24-30 degrees cooler.

[merc81]

Originally Posted by Nitro23

New RAD installed.

Major difference in cooling.

According to the gauge it's running 1 click below 210 now. So it's 2 clicks cooler. I think the clicks are 12-14 degrees, so definitely 24-30 degrees cooler.

So, was the original radiator plugged inside as well as outside? Is it something that could maybe have just been removed and cleaned off and put back? I'm asking because after changing the heads on my engine, it now runs a bit hotter than normal--I'm pretty sure its the radiator not doing the best job it could.
I figured it was gunked up inside, never even thought it might be on the outside!
John

[Nitro23]

Mine did not look too bad on the inside. The fins were clogged on the outside of the radiator. It basically looked like an old furnace filter.

I'm sure I could have washed out the outside and have a RAD shop clean the core. I got a deal on a new RAD for $149 and just decided to replace it.

I think if you remove it and clean it you will improve the cooling capabilities.

[merc81]

Yea, I've been holding off dumping the antifreeze until it quits getting cold at night here (WV), but it looks like this weekend might be the time. My mistake was not flushing the rad out when I had the engine down and waiting on the head rebuilds. I should have replaced every hose in the coolant system too, and ended up doing them one by one after I put the engine back in service.

My plan after reading your experience is to pull the rad clear out and flush both inside and outside. Lots of junky stuff floating around in there from the head job--hard to keep that stuff out from the engine when cleaning off the gaskets.

John

[Will Help]

Need to make sure the a/c rad fins are clean and not smashed shut. They are fragile and bugs can knock them over. You can purchase an a/c fin comb at hardwares and some autoparts.

I can't remember if the head gaskets are directional or not on this application. If they are, it is possible one or both could be mounted backwards. This could restrict the water flow. Maybe someone out there can enlighten us on that issue.

[Nitro23]

I used air to blow out the AC condensor from the inside out. Very dusty, recommend eye and breathing protection when doing it. Be careful not to
blow fins closed with all that air pressure.