Air Conditioner problem

[lrssms]

1993 Olds - 98 supercharged

My air conditioner has stopped working. The temperature panel flashes what appears to be the outside temperature.

It did it last year, but I could get the air to work by either turning the car off or by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

suggestions?

Just to update with more info.

The blower works - I'm getting air in the car. I did notice when it works the compressor rattles. Is there a way to trigger a code on the display. I've been reading through other GM threads and saw that hitting the off and warm button at the same time will give a code. Is that the same for the olds 98 - I have the dual auto climate system.

[HotZ28]

Compressor "rattle" does not sound good, could be low on refrigerant or the orifice screen is blocked. You need to check the high & low side pressures. You can follow the code retrieval steps and find out what the codes are, then reset them using the various push button controls on the control head. If you don't fix the problem, the codes will come back!

[lrssms]

how do I retrieve the does on the AC. Does the off and warm button together give the codes?

[lrssms]

Originally Posted by lrssms

how do I retrieve the codes on the AC. Does the off and warm button together give the codes?

The system test on the diagnostic screen says no problems.

[HotZ28]

If the display is flashing, this is an indication of a fault. Strange that you do not show one, or several! Have the high/low pressure test done as soon as you can.
Is this the procedure you used? If not, follow this one step-by-step.

This procedure will work on 1992 -1993 models with ATC, and may also work on 1988-1991 models.

The diagnostic mode also contains a data list mode and an override mode.

Be careful not to select modes 01 or 02, as these are different modes and may cause you problems, if you don’t know the functions of these modes.

If you suspect you are in the wrong mode, press OFF repeatedly until you exit to normal mode. If the temperature display flashes for 2 minutes when the ignition is turned to RUN, a trouble code is set.

1. Turn ignition to RUN. Press OFF and WARM (temperature up) buttons simultaneously.

2. Watch the segment test, then the trouble codes will be displayed.

3. Code Key:

00 - No codes

10 or 110 - Ambient Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.

13 or 113 - In-Vehicle Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.

15 or 115 - LH Solar Sensor circuit open or shorted.

35 or 135 - Data Line failure - HVAC Control Assembly

38 or 138 - Data Line failure - PCM

40 or 140 - Driver Air Mix Motor circuit open or shorted, or not calibrated

48 or 148 - Long Term Freon Loss

52 or 152 - Keep Alive Memory lost; sets with battery disconnected

66 or 166 - Low Freon

A number (1) prefix, indicates a history trouble code.

4. Press OFF twice, once codes are displayed to end diagnostic mode, OR to clear trouble codes, press FAN DOWN three times (make sure 03 is displayed).

Once 03 is displayed, press FAN UP to clear trouble codes. Then repeatedly press OFF to end diagnostic mode.

[lrssms]

thanks, I'll try it on my break. I also thought it was odd there was no code. In my 89 touring sedan, the code would flash. I'll let you know.

[lrssms]

nothing happens.

I switch to run, press the buttons simutaneously and all the temp display does is flash the outside temp.

Could this mean a bad air conditioner cpu/controller (if there is one?)

I tried it a few times when I got home. all it does is either turn off the air or increases the temp - flashing the whole time

I disconnected the battery for fifteen seconds. Now the Air snow symbol is on, but I'm sure by the time I get to work tomorrow it won't work

[lrssms]

Ok,

Now everytime I start the car, the AC works after a period of time, then turns off. If I stop and turn off the car then the I can get the Air to turn on again. The control dispaly in the car is no longer flashing.

[HotZ28]

Again, have the high/low pressure test done as soon as you can. BTW, when you pressed the OFF & WARM buttons, how long did you hold them in? It may take several seconds to go in the diagnostic mode while holding the buttons. The system will reset anyway after about 50 ON/OFF ignition cycles.

[lrssms]

I have a test next week. When I push the buttons together, either nothing happens or the temp rises or the ac turns off. I've pushed and released or have held for 1 sec then 2 sec then 3 sec etc up till 5 sec.

[lrssms]

Ok, I called two places. Both said don't bother having it checked. If the air is coming on when I start it, it's not the freon level. One place suggested checking the cooling fan to make sure it's coming on.

additional info. I had to disconnect the battery again because the inside control panel started blinking again. After I reconnected it, the air worked fine for 50 miles or so. Then it turned off. If I stop and shut the car off, it comes back on again. I still have not been able to trigger a diagnositic test.


Drove home, Ran fine for 50 miles, then shut off (snow flake went away). Stopped at a red light, shut car off and then started - Air worked fine for another10-15 miles before I had to shut off again.

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by lrssms

Ok, I called two places. Both said don't bother having it checked. If the air is coming on when I start it, it's not the freon level. One place suggested checking the cooling fan to make sure it's coming on.

additional info. I had to disconnect the battery again because the inside control panel started blinking again. After I reconnected it, the air worked fine for 50 miles or so. Then it turned off. If I stop and shut the car off, it comes back on again. I still have not been able to trigger a diagnositic test.


Drove home, Ran fine for 50 miles, then shut off (snow flake went away). Stopped at a red light, shut car off and then started - Air worked fine for another10-15 miles before I had to shut off again.

I hate to be so persistent about having the pressure(s) checked, but regardless of what the two places you called said, it is important to know, especially the high side. Your problems now seen to indicate, either the high side pressure, (orifice restriction) or the low side pressure switch is shutting off the compressor. Refrigerant level could, or may not be the problem, however, you will never know without a pressure test. Early symptoms of compressor failure would indicate orifice screen contamination and higher than normal high side pressure. The compressor will run with less than the system refrigerant capacity, however, if it is low, the compressor may cycle off/on more frequent than normal. This is impossible to see or here from the drivers seat, or to diagnose over the phone.

[lrssms]

Final outcome - I went to test the pressure and found out that the system was freon. I had it converted for $152. The shop found no leaks, but inserted dye into the system. Air has been working fine for the past two weeks.

Still don't know why I couldn't obtain a code on the display.

[brcidd]

The flashing display means low refrigerant- the system has shut of the compressor to protect it from burning up due to lack of lubrication with loss of refrigerant--- the system counts the cycles of the compressor- if too many cycles in too short of time- it sets the display to flashing and disables the compressor-- by resetting the control panel (unhooking power to it) you have started the system counting over again-- if your shop did not find the leak- in a few weeks this flashing will occur again as once more it is trying to tell you to get your leak fixed-- most obvious leak location on your H-6 compressor system- is the compressor shaft seal- followed closely by the body o-rings of the compressor-- next likely is the evaporator- very common on a '93 C or H body as is yours.....

[HotZ28]

Congratulations on getting the A/C system working again! In addition, a reasonable charge (price) for the conversion to 134a. I hope they did a full-system flush and installed new POE (polyol ester) oil. If so, you should get some long-lasting service from it.

BTW, the “flashing display” does not necessarily indicate only “low refrigerant”! Low refrigerant, is just one (1) of the many system parameters that can cause the display to flash. That is the reason, I was so persistent about having the system pressure(s) checked. If you do not have access to an A/C capable scanner, you can only speculate as to what the flashing display is trying to tell you.

I think you made the right decision with the conversion, especially if you got the system flushed and installed new POE oil. Not many people know it, or would even consider changing the A/C system oil like they would crankcase oil; however, old sludgy compressor oil does not circulate well and poor oil circulation is the leading cause of compressor failure!
Recently, some of the new car manufactures have acknowledge this service flaw, and have included A/C system oil changes in their recommended service intervals.

Good Luck, and stay COOL!