How I Removed RH axle & Rear Motor Mount

[artbuc]

This method applies to 3.0L V6 Camrys & Avalons (and perhaps others). It is much better than any other method I have found discussed on the Internet. No PB Blaster, no torches, no pounding with hammers & wedges for days and no exhaust system removal.

My Avalon is 8 1/2 years old w/84k miles. As expected, the RH axle support bearing outer race was seized in the motor mount cast iron bracket. My RH axle was fine but I needed to replace the rear motor mount. You can get a new Toyota mount bushing for $50 and an aftermarket one for half that price. You can get a Toyota cast iron bracket/rubber bushing assembly for $100 bucks. Two of my favorite Toyota parts suppliers (Irontoad & DTP) no longer sell the rubber bushing separately because it is too difficult (I say almost impossible) to remove the old bushing. If your motor mount is ok but you are removing the RH axle for other reasons, I recommend going ahead and replacing the motor mount.

This method destroys the cast iron bracket, but OTOH, saves the RH axle support bearing which I would say is at least an even trade-off.

1. Loosen the RH axle lock nut.

2. Put car up on jack-stands and drain a couple quarts of ATF.

3. Jack-up engine and remove steel bracket which connects motor mount to subframe. Rest cast iron motor mount on a block of 2"x4".

4. Finish removing axle locknut, disconnect lower ball joint, tie-rod, speed sensor, strut from steering knuckle & hub. Hold rotor in place with lugs nuts and remove complete hub assembly with harmonic pulley remover. Have a support (plastic bucket works nicely) ready so you don't strain brake hose.

5. Remove axle support bearing lock bolt and snap ring.

6. Using a reciprocating saw and Dremel, make an axial cut in the bottom of the cast iron motor mount bracket. Cutting is very easy so make frequent inspections with a flashlight and mirror to make sure you don't cut into support bearing outer race.

7. Jack-up engine to take load off cast iron bracket. Drive a cold chisel into the cut with a 3 lb hammer and use a crow bar to pop out the axle support bearing.

This method is easy and fast and it doesn't destroy the support bearing. It does destroy the cast iron bracket but you will find that you do not want to re-use it anyway.

PS

1. Before reassembly, clean-up the support bearing outer race with 0000 steel wool and be liberal with the anti-sieze.

2. Forget about "re-building" the rubber bushing with 3M Windo Weld polyurethane. It is a one-part moisture cured product which will take weeks or months to properly cure, even if you apply it in layers.

3. At one point I was considering cutting the cast iron bracket locating pins which would have possibly allowed me to remove the RH axle and rear mount as an assembly. I didn't do this because I wasn't sure if the locating pins were part of the bracket or part of the engine. They are part of the engine. You could cut them if you wanted to because their only function (I think) is to facilitate bolting of bracket to engine. However, I would rather buy a new bracket than cut-off the locating pins.

[Brian R.]

Any pics to clarify the procedure?