Windstar noise when moving from cold.

[ukmanintennessee]

I have a 2000 Windstar. When the vehicle is cold or been left with the engine off for a little while i get a strange noise when i move. The noise i kind of like a slipping/grinding noise. It can be felt through the bottom of the car. It does not matter if the car is in D or N. Have heard the same noise by just allowing it to roll. Last night i noticed that when the noise happened the lights flickered too. Any help is appreciated. Ford do not know what it is.

[tartersauce]

After a cold sit overnight and high humid levels your rotors and drums may build up a slight rust. When you move you hear this grind very little tho. Once you brake a few times its gone, since it cleaned off the buildup. EAST COAST States and High Alt areas. Fog is a clue..
This normaly wont happen after a HOT Soak.
Thats the only thing I can think of.

You move your car without the engine running? Put in N and let off the brake pedal. It rolls etc.

The lights have me confused tho. I know some ABS systems do a check that can be heard at key turn, But its Quick.

Which lamps or lights? Turn key on or off In N or rolling etc..

Ford Alternators. Once you start your car, the Alternator takes its time to start charging. Its like 5 to 10 seconds before it kicks in and it will make your lamps flicker then get brighter as its now charging at 14volts. They dont start charging right away, kinda slowly start charging to extend its life and not have Spikes.

[ukmanintennessee]

I did have the brakes changed yesterday by Ford. Apparently they were badly worn, also have rotors turned. Of course, still have problem.

Tried rolling without engine running, did not get problem. But as soon as i turned the engine on - while still in N the problem occured. Its only a quick sound. Not continuous. Kind of like something is maybe slipping into position. With the car in N and still getting the problem would this eliminate a transmission problem?? That was my first concern hence the N test.
When the problem occurs i do not notice any change in the revs. Also, if in D and the problem happens i do not see any change. the car will still shift normally from 1st to 2nd. This problem happens within the first few seconds of going forward whether in D or N.

Problem occurs after ABS check has been done.

I had my headlights on (normal beam) which is when i noticed the flicker. If it was related to the ABS then this could be a link to the electrical system. - Maybe?

[tartersauce]

Originally Posted by ukmanintennessee

I did have the brakes changed yesterday by Ford. Apparently they were badly worn, also have rotors turned. Of course, still have problem.

Tried rolling without engine running, did not get problem. But as soon as i turned the engine on - while still in N the problem occured. Its only a quick sound. Not continuous. Kind of like something is maybe slipping into position. With the car in N and still getting the problem would this eliminate a transmission problem?? That was my first concern hence the N test.
When the problem occurs i do not notice any change in the revs. Also, if in D and the problem happens i do not see any change. the car will still shift normally from 1st to 2nd. This problem happens within the first few seconds of going forward whether in D or N.

Problem occurs after ABS check has been done.

I had my headlights on (normal beam) which is when i noticed the flicker. If it was related to the ABS then this could be a link to the electrical system. - Maybe?

I know the trans can make a odd sound turning soleniods on or off. Buzz swhoosh sound. Do you start up in N? Or start in park and switch to N?
If you start in park, when you move your shifter, its getting signal to prime the Rev and it will humm for a second. But just enough to start the solenoid, to N. Try startin in N or have you tried that?

[tripletdaddy]

If you start your van and just let it sit awhile, will it make this sound and lights flicker? And specifically what lights flicker? So, until you move the shifter out of park, no noise? Does it matter what gear? If you keep your foot on the brake after you shift into gear, will it make the noise? or you do you have to release the brakes? If motion is required to make this sound, then brakes are my first guess as that is what has been changed most recently. I like this idea the most, but that doesn't explain the lights. If no motion is required and you didn't put in gear, I'd say it's drive belt related and maybe the alternator is complaining by slipping the belt and inconsistent output, which can be tested at autoparts store in van. Have you had a battery/alt light come on at all? Is your AC/Defrost coming on every time? That can cause a belt slip screech and the lights to maybe flicker. Any of the belt accessories, idlers and tensioners can cause belt screeching by being "stiff" at start up, indicating failure soon. I really can't make a good connection with the lights and the sound sensation

[ukmanintennessee]

I tested starting the car in N, and then just rolling without putting it in any gear (but with the engine runnning). Still get the noise.
I tried letting the car sit for a while - so the engine was warm. then putting in D to move. Also hear the noise within 3 secs of movement.
I tested the foot on brake idea and have the same problem. Also, i did have the problem before i had the brakes changed. But, of course it could still be related.
Will get alternator tested at Autozone to see if there is a problem there. The has to be motion to hear the sound. But, as it is only happening on initial movement then possibly is something slipping. For instance. If i stop at a light. Put it in P and then back to D and carry on normally. No sound will be heard. But then, maybe after driving belts etc are in there normal running position.
I have not had any lights come on indicating a problem and the air con/defrost is working fine.
Is it possible that if any of the belts slip then they are eventually going to go through an electrical system hence the flicker? Im just guessing. Is it easy to test the belt accessories, idlers and tensioners??

[tartersauce]

Originally Posted by ukmanintennessee

I tested starting the car in N, and then just rolling without putting it in any gear (but with the engine runnning). Still get the noise.
I tried letting the car sit for a while - so the engine was warm. then putting in D to move. Also hear the noise within 3 secs of movement.
I tested the foot on brake idea and have the same problem. Also, i did have the problem before i had the brakes changed. But, of course it could still be related.
Will get alternator tested at Autozone to see if there is a problem there. The has to be motion to hear the sound. But, as it is only happening on initial movement then possibly is something slipping. For instance. If i stop at a light. Put it in P and then back to D and carry on normally. No sound will be heard. But then, maybe after driving belts etc are in there normal running position.
I have not had any lights come on indicating a problem and the air con/defrost is working fine.
Is it possible that if any of the belts slip then they are eventually going to go through an electrical system hence the flicker? Im just guessing. Is it easy to test the belt accessories, idlers and tensioners??

Belts NO, Either its good or bad.. Noisey or quiet..

Wheelbearings, Strut towers, Strut bushing insulators, Sway bar bushing, tie rods, CV Joints. are your moving parts. I would look under at the easy things and move your car around while looking and checking. Bounce up and down and forward and back in park. Bounce it around and listen.

[tripletdaddy]

Jack up the front end with tires off. Have the rotors bolted on to use brakes and try running in gear listening for the noise. Still have noise, then do same with rotors off, but remember you have no brakes, so don't use them, start in N, wait for axles to slow down to switch from F to R and DON'T go to P until it's stopped!!! I bet your brakes are sticking/binding when first moving. Hate for it to be worse.

[northern piper]

I of 1/2 a mind to suggest jacking up the front, leaving wheels on, and starting on 1 side pinching off the brake line. Go into D, then brake. No noise, do the same on the opposite. If it's brakes, this will let you know without actually driving. It there is no noise when the front end is not loaded, I'd be looking at suspension components as already mentioned. This method is essentially what Tripletdaddy has suggested, just a lazier approach.

Piper

[tartersauce]

Originally Posted by northern piper

I of 1/2 a mind to suggest jacking up the front, leaving wheels on, and starting on 1 side pinching off the brake line. Go into D, then brake. No noise, do the same on the opposite. If it's brakes, this will let you know without actually driving. It there is no noise when the front end is not loaded, I'd be looking at suspension components as already mentioned. This method is essentially what Tripletdaddy has suggested, just a lazier approach.

Piper

Once in my lifetime Ive had a Wheelbearing make a noise after sitting. It was hard to diag too. Shops arnt quiet at all and it was on a Ford product. You cant just pull them off and check them either, cause you cant reuse the parts. Never had noises at high speeds or anything, just a noise that was ODD after sitting. Warm no noise.. It was a Rear wheel tho.. A jack up and spin test may show something on yours if its wheels or suspension.. This one tho, didnt make the noise without LOAD on its bearing..
Brakes.. I think you would have it 24/7 even with old or new stuff put on, except the overnight rust or dirt, parked on dirt and rained etc..
For the heck of it, try to dup it with the Parking brake. Maybe they adjusted the shoes tightly, and driving it wears and sets the clearance of the shoe to drum.
Leafs or Branches? But feeling it thru floor? a branch you may feel.. If it was just done, They had to see something...

[tripletdaddy]

Piper, you're lazy, I like lazy, good idea. Now I don't know why I thought you should take the tires off first when you don't, I guess so you don't have to lower it to take them off and raise it again to do second test? How tight and how do you pinch off the brake line so that you don't damage it?

I'm favoring the brakes making the noise. Is this anything like when brakes grunt when applying them when car is slowly rolling or just starting? I think you can repeat this sound by repetively applying and releasing the brakes at a slow roll and often the engine just want to go. You can also get it to do it by holding the brakes with left foot and pushing on accelerator some to make the brakes hold more and then release brake. If it doesn't sound like this, then we need a new tree and a new dog to bark.

[northern piper]

I've used the pinch idea a couple of times. 1st was when I was trying to determine a warped rotor. I went to an open parking lot, hooked a hose pinch clamp to 1 line, drove a bit, listened for the "dub dub dub" as I slowed. Now, I'll tell you something, that van will really pull to the side when you don't have a front caliper braking on 1 side but it does quickly tell you which side has the warped rotor. Only takes a couple of thousands of an inch too! Anyway, the hose clamp looks like a "V" with a rod which tightens into it, basically pinches the hose like when you fold a garden hose off onto itself. It doesn't seem to harm the brake line but I wouldn't want to do it every day.

Piper

[ukmanintennessee]

Personally im hoping for a brake problem, rather than anything relating to the transmission. Im going to do some more in-depth testing this weekend by jacking the car up etc. I Will do the other test later though by applying a little pressure to them while giving a bit of acceleration per tripledaddy. Will let you know how i get on. Thanks to everyone for advice so far. Im determined to get to the bottom of this.

[tripletdaddy]

I've got an idea completely in a different direction. Trans and engine mounts. I think the test is to hold the brakes hard and give it some gas in forward and reverse looking for movement and listening for your noise. Also, give the mounts a good lookover for cracking and excessively compressed and shifted, misaligned. Sound could be one rubbing. I don't know. This e-mechanic stuff has its limitations.