spark plug change on a caravan

[93blueblazer]

this is my first caravan that ive ever owned, i want to change the spark plugs in it, how do you get to the back ones?. can you get themfrom underneath?

[rexbest]

I just did mine not too long ago and found it easiest if you remove your wipers and the wiper catch tray. Took me about 30 mins to figure out how to get it all out but made the job much easier. Just my amatuer 2 cents.

Rex

[homefree]

I just did mine too.
I just reached around from the front and changed one at a time. It went pretty fast and easier than I thought it would go if you are good at working by feel.

[wafrederick]

What year and size engine?The 2000 3.3s are easy to get to the back ones without removing the wipers.Stay away from Bosch plugs,Chrysler products run like crap with them and stick with Champions.It would not hurt to put antiseeze compound on the threads of the new plugs.Evertime I see Bosch plugs in a Chrysler product,they go in the garbage can and get replaced with Champions.

[JStin]

wafrederick,

Assuming the OP has a 2000 3.3 so I don't hijack their post... Can you elaborate on how to change the back plugs easily on a 2000 please? I paid the dealer on the first go 'round but I'm coming up on the 2nd & would like to avoid the dealer charge. My older one was easy from underneath but the 2000 doesn't seem quite so.

[srs_49]

When I did the plugs on our '94 3.3L Caravan, I had my son help me with the rear ones. I think he worked the spark plug wrench from below the engine, while I guided it onto the plug from above. Or maybe it was the other way around. It was a little slow, but we got it done in an hour or so.

[webbee]

I always go from below with the van on jack stands, engine cold. It's hardest on the front and middle which are done mostly by feel. I use a swivel, an extension, and also a wobble extension, depending on position. You must blow the plug recess out before starting or you will probably get dirt into the cylinder. It's a PITA job, no two ways about it. Takes about 2 hours if I remember correctly.

Use double platinum plugs because you don't want to do it again anytime soon. Lots of peeps like Champion, I used NGK the last time. So far I like NGK pretty well.

As has been suggested, going from the top, I find is added work, unless your changing the PCV valve and hose or doing a valve cover gasket replacement.
Some suggest having someone else do the job. I bought mine as a used program van and it was always dealer maintained, I saw the records. When I did the job, I found the front plugs had been recently changed and two different brands on the rear. The front and center were factory originals and the rear that's easy to change was a third brand. I don't think the $tealer had ever replaced the 2 rears. No guarantees that hiring it out will get the rears changed, IMHO.

Edit to add: Don't forget to use anti-seize as wafrederick suggested. Also the '96-'00 3.3/8's are the worst for getting to the rear plugs.

[madmanmapper]

I find that on the Chryslers with the transverse mounted 3.3 or 3.8 (ie, minivans, older Dynasty, New Yorker) and I mean the ones with the old style aluminum intake manifold, the one that hangs over the back cylinder bank, the easiest thing to do is simply to remove the upper intake plenum. A handful of sensors to unplug, a few vacuum lines, one bolt on the side in the back, a couple bolts by the alternator, and about 5 bolts to the intake manifold, and it's off and out of your way. Just sort of fold it over instead of completely removing it, so you dont have to disconnect the throttle cables. Change your back plugs and wires, and run the wires back to the coil. Buy a Felpro upper intake plenum gasket set (about $5) and a can of gasket spray adhesive and put the gasket on. Install the plenum and there you go!

So not only did you do a tuneup, easier and quicker, but you also changed the intake plenum gasket, which can leak with age and affect performance.

[srs_49]

Originally Posted by webbee

I always go from below with the van on jack stands, engine cold. It's hardest on the front and middle which are done mostly by feel. I use a swivel, an extension, and also a wobble extension, depending on position. You must blow the plug recess out before starting or you will probably get dirt into the cylinder. It's a PITA job, no two ways about it. Takes about 2 hours if I remember correctly.

I think it only took me about an hour but, then again, I had a extra set of hands to help out.

Not to change the topic too much, but the worst car I've ever changed plugs on was our '02 Subaru Outback wagon with the H6 engine. Took me the better part of an afternoon. Needed every extension, swivel, spark plug socket, and adapter I had in my collection (think it was like 14 different items). And that was after removing the air intake tube, air filter box, battery, and windshield washer reservoir.

[egc519mzl]

I did it from under the engine. You cannot see anything, so you have to use your sixth sense. There was also no room to clean the area so I don't know how much dirt has got into the engine. But I really had to replace the plugs...

[madmanmapper]

I'm telling ya, take off the intake plenum, it will make your life so much easier. Doing it this way, I got the tune up done in 20 minutes flat.

[egc519mzl]

Wow! Next time i will do that way. I was hesitant to take out the plenum because there were wires and hoses attached to it.
Thanks for the info.

[Demoman442]

I did one last night, 00 3.3, Yes removing the plenum is the way to go, Do the valve cover gaskets while you're there and replace the pvc tube, Also a perfect time to clean the throttle body.

[Demoman442]

Forgot to mention this thing had 170k on it and had never been toutched, The plug tips were receeded into the ceramic, happy happy customer!

[triplethreattt]

Originally Posted by madmanmapper

I find that on the Chryslers with the transverse mounted 3.3 or 3.8 (ie, minivans, older Dynasty, New Yorker) and I mean the ones with the old style aluminum intake manifold, the one that hangs over the back cylinder bank, the easiest thing to do is simply to remove the upper intake plenum. A handful of sensors to unplug, a few vacuum lines, one bolt on the side in the back, a couple bolts by the alternator, and about 5 bolts to the intake manifold, and it's off and out of your way. Just sort of fold it over instead of completely removing it, so you dont have to disconnect the throttle cables. Change your back plugs and wires, and run the wires back to the coil. Buy a Felpro upper intake plenum gasket set (about $5) and a can of gasket spray adhesive and put the gasket on. Install the plenum and there you go!

So not only did you do a tuneup, easier and quicker, but you also changed the intake plenum gasket, which can leak with age and affect performance.

could not agree more. I removed the wiper tub assembly, then did what you said here. There were quite a few things to detach from it, but once away, it was very easy to get to the back plugs. I had a hard time seeing them as well, but I'm too old to be crawling around under the van for an hour or two like that.