2000 squeek/squall and stall...

[12ringer74]

After replacing CKP..crank position..see my earlier post..cleaning MAF and adding some Seafoam to fuel..........

I still have a problem..
Before replacing the crank position sensor engine would stall in gear and at idle. I also had a little squeek under the hood. Along with crk, cleaning MAF and seafoam I replaced the tensioner assembly and idler bearing, and installed new belt.

After all this I still have a noise, and think that it relates to the stall..
At the hieght of the noise...when in gear, at idle (red light, ect) you can feel the engine start to stumble a little...I can go to nuetral an give a little throttle and avoid stall.....as soon as the squeel/squauk stops, it runs fine.
There is a definite correlation.

When the belt was off during change, I checked the water pump...seemed to be OK....Alternator is quiet. No weepage from Water Pump...
Possible pump bearing????? Any other ideas??????????

[wiswind]

Check for a vaccum leak.....a issue with one of the vaccum lines.
I had a similar situation, although it did not stall....I an easily see where it could if bad enough......caused by a crack in the elbow at the top of the upper intake manifold......next to the throttle body......
This is the line that goes to the PCV valve (in the front valve cover on 1999 and newer windstars).
I replaced the cracked elbow and solved my problem.
The crack was on the inside of the elbow....

Don't ask me why it made the sound.......as it sounded to me like the sound came from the opposite side.......by the IMRC actuators, drive belt, etc.....where you have been working.

[12ringer74]

WISWIND.....

Was yours sporatic or constant???
Mine seems to be somewhat sporatic....particularly in the morning.....
I can drive the 4 miles to work...no problems. Start it up to go out for lunch...squeaks on start-up. Drive the 1/4 mile into town.....starts the louder noise and a little shudder...........after which it will calm down for a while.

[wiswind]

sporatic.....
Try GENTLY wiggling a few things.....
That I how I found the problem on mine.
Of course, I did not expect to find the solution to a squeek on the passenger side to be on the driver's side.

[CnlK]

The camshaft synchronizers are known to squeal when the bearing surfaces are on their way to failure, causing driveability problems. Try listening at the base of the synchro with a long screwdriver or a mechanic's stethescope. Pull the camshaft positon sensor off the top and see if the rotating vane has been contacting the sensor. Just something else you might want to look at.

[tartersauce]

If you can get the noise to start, a Screwdriver to your ear touching each hard part.. EXper people only. Or get a Piece of tubing about 2 - 3 feet hold one to your ear, and the other near the engine or sensors - leaks etc. May help you pinpoint the noise. The IMRC will cause stalling problems that come and go when going in gear. Then once restarted they are gone.. Undone linkage etc.

[jimmyzs2003]

Hi, I am also needing to replace the syncronizer, any ideas as to what to move out of the way or some proceedures to do this. I think I need to remove the serpintine belt to remove the power steering pump, and I need to remove some water lines to the water pump. How many Bolts are there holding the ps pump and where are they located. Thanks for any help you can give me. Jim

[CnlK]

Synchronizer removal - On a 2000 3.8l get #1 piston at TDC. Disconnect battery, remove cowl for access room, remove serp belt, I also removed duct from cowl to firewall, remove coolant tube at water pump - there is also a flange and bolt fastening tube at power steering pump-other end transitions to hoses & clamps, unbolt power steering pump - 4 bolts on top & set aside.
No need to remove power steering lines. With all that out of the way you should be able to pull synchro after unbolting hold down. When pulling syncho look for shaft that snaps into bottom that drives oil pump. If you have alignment tool, install tool on top of synchro (sensor removed) with oil pump drive shaft snapped into bottom and insert into timing chain cover, secure with hold down bolt. The timing marks were very faint on my dampner, scuff with some sandpaper to find. You'll know if your at TDC compression if the vane on the synchro is near the "window" in the synchro housing (sensor removed). Also helps to remove a little coolant from radiator before starting. Remove front passenger tire for access to dampner. Note: on my 3.8l, coolant tube was seized in water pump hsg, took an while to work it loose without damaging anything. I may have forgotten some details, hope this helps.

[jimmyzs2003]

Originally Posted by CnlK

Synchronizer removal - On a 2000 3.8l get #1 piston at TDC. Disconnect battery, remove cowl for access room, remove serp belt, I also removed duct from cowl to firewall, remove coolant tube at water pump - there is also a flange and bolt fastening tube at power steering pump-other end transitions to hoses & clamps, unbolt power steering pump - 4 bolts on top & set aside.
No need to remove power steering lines. With all that out of the way you should be able to pull synchro after unbolting hold down. When pulling syncho look for shaft that snaps into bottom that drives oil pump. If you have alignment tool, install tool on top of synchro (sensor removed) with oil pump drive shaft snapped into bottom and insert into timing chain cover, secure with hold down bolt. The timing marks were very faint on my dampner, scuff with some sandpaper to find. You'll know if your at TDC compression if the vane on the synchro is near the "window" in the synchro housing (sensor removed). Also helps to remove a little coolant from radiator before starting. Remove front passenger tire for access to dampner. Note: on my 3.8l, coolant tube was seized in water pump hsg, took an while to work it loose without damaging anything. I may have forgotten some details, hope this helps.

My coolant line is also seized on to water pump, how did you end up removing with out damaging, did you pry a bit? Thanks. Jim

[CnlK]

Did you find the second attachment point at the PS pump? I ended up prying at the tubing flange at the water pump then carefully used a slide hammer to force it up, all the while just rocking it back & forth and sideways. It took some persistence. The tube if damaged can always be replaced, I just didn't want to damage the bore in the water pump, have heard changing a water pump on a windstar is quite a job. My local ford dealer didn't list the O-ring that is on the end of the tube, found a match and applied some RTV on reinstallation.

[pitteach]

I am experiencing the exact same problem on my '00 (102k Mi). It squeaks almost like a seized pulley, but only sporatically and only at idle-stumbles and stalls. Sometimes it is very hard to start and other times not. I replaced the belt tensioner, and the serpentine. The power steering pump, CPS, and the water pump have been replaced in the past year and a half. I tried the old tubing stethoscope but I can't pinpoint the squeak. It does seem to be coming from the belt area of the engine but not the pulleys-- very frustrating!

I'm going to look into the synchros as mentioned but I am unfamiliar with that area. Any other advise would be appreciated.

[12Ounce]

Tho the Haynes doesn't cover your model year very well ... its still worth a read just to get some background on the synchro. I finally bought the alignment tool ... but could have avoided the cost if somewhere I could have seen a good photo showing the vane location at #1 cyl TDC.

[jimmyzs2003]

Originally Posted by pitteach

I am experiencing the exact same problem on my '00 (102k Mi). It squeaks almost like a seized pulley, but only sporatically and only at idle-stumbles and stalls. Sometimes it is very hard to start and other times not. I replaced the belt tensioner, and the serpentine. The power steering pump, CPS, and the water pump have been replaced in the past year and a half. I tried the old tubing stethoscope but I can't pinpoint the squeak. It does seem to be coming from the belt area of the engine but not the pulleys-- very frustrating!

I'm going to look into the synchros as mentioned but I am unfamiliar with that area. Any other advise would be appreciated.

yep, I think its your syncronizer, if you put the stethescope on the syncronizer when you hear the squeak, it will be so crystal clear and hurt your ears. on the 2002 windstar it is located on the or behind the water pump. Clnk had a great post for doing it. I have taken pictures which i will post some time this Wednesday, and add some more comments on the issues i ran up against. The old syncronizer was pretty shot up, turning it by hand when removed you could feel it stick then pop, I think that was the cause of the stalling/lurching when my wife would drive it, but I had already replaced the serpintine belt/tensioner/sparkplugs and wires, and the fuel filter. I bought my syncronizer from schucks auto, it came with the sensor and the alighment tool all for $65. Gotta get back to work. Jim

[gibou]

Same problem I think:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...10#post5713510

[12ringer74]

My problem wound up being the Camshaft synchro.....
Replaced the idler, tensioner, water pump and belt before figuring it out.....All I would have had to do was remove the belt....it still made the sound

New problem though....does anyone sell JUST the teflon seal for the high preasure hose on the ps unit...goes on the back side of the threads.....So far the only way that I have found it was by buying a hose or pump...$50 each!!!