Idle is still too high

[bhw33191]

When i start my car and let it sit a while the idle "or choke" slowly gets to a point where i have to stomp the gas to get it to go back down "temporarily". Today i checked everything but could not seem to find the problem. Although, i did unplug what i think is the anti-dieseling "component, or whatever its called" and the idle immediately dropped to a more acceptable level. But it still isnt the same. I have a sound clip of the exhaust from about 4 months back and the idle is where it should be. I did take off the aircleaner to repaint it but i dont think i messed anything up when i put it back on. Any suggestions?

P.S.- It shouldn't have anything to do with the carb tuning because i haven't touched that at all.

[mike561]

I think the "anti dieseling" thing your talking about is called the idle stop solenoid, mine was disconnected but i put it back on. i also have to stomp on the gas a few times for my idle to go down on a cold start, ussualy takes about 5 minutes.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by bhw33191

When i start my car and let it sit a while the idle "or choke" slowly gets to a point where i have to stomp the gas to get it to go back down "temporarily". Today i checked everything but could not seem to find the problem. Although, i did unplug what i think is the anti-dieseling "component, or whatever its called" and the idle immediately dropped to a more acceptable level. But it still isnt the same. I have a sound clip of the exhaust from about 4 months back and the idle is where it should be. I did take off the aircleaner to repaint it but i dont think i messed anything up when i put it back on. Any suggestions?

P.S.- It shouldn't have anything to do with the carb tuning because i haven't touched that at all.

if you unplugged a vacuum line it will idle fast.. check all air cleaner lines if you are sure there is no vacuum leak then the anti dieseling solenoid is adjustable by turning the hex nut....idle in drive should be 650rpm...

if your choke cam is clean and not binding a tap on the gas pedal should have it drop down to 1100 rpm from 1700rpm.... then as choke heats should drop to 750 in park and 650 in drive....

the vacuum operated choke pull off's must be checked for leaks... manually push inward and then block vacuum port to device the pull off should not move until you open port...

[mike561]

since we're on the subject of ide speeds, does the 1983 year's engine have the feature where when the computer is told that the AC compresor is on, that the idle is supposed to kick up a little bit, then go back down when the compressor is off, or is that something just the newer cars do???

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by mike561

since we're on the subject of ide speeds, does the 1983 year's engine have the feature where when the computer is told that the AC compresor is on, that the idle is supposed to kick up a little bit, then go back down when the compressor is off, or is that something just the newer cars do???

i'm sure its not that way as i would increase idle slightly during the a/c usage months, by 50-75 rpm..

if it were an olds 307 cu in it used a vacuum anti stall feature....as vacuum dropped idle would increase and when the engine shut down the electic portion would close throttle plates to TRY to stop dieseling as on that engine in the 80's the gas created huge carbon in this engines combustion chamber until the late 80's-1990 when the formula changed...

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by mike561

since we're on the subject of ide speeds, does the 1983 year's engine have the feature where when the computer is told that the AC compresor is on, that the idle is supposed to kick up a little bit, then go back down when the compressor is off, or is that something just the newer cars do???

did you correct the idle problem?

[bhw33191]

I haven't had time to thorougly check everything yet. But, ever since i unplugged the anti-dieseling solinoid as i said the idle is closer to where it should be. Although, it doesnt start up the way it used to. It cranks for a while and for some reason while its cranking you can hear a "knock" noise that occurs only once. After you crank it for a while the engine does start but almost magically because after you let go of the key its as if it struggles to start from a low rpm and slowly sputters to life. Sometimes you think you have to turn it over again because it starts so "discretely" so to say. I'm assuming this has to do with unplugging that solinoid? Although dieseling only occurs when you turn the car off i'm pretty sure so who knows.