1995 Achieva S tune up

[kerosene25]

I just got this car . it has 97k miles. I dont know if its ever had a tune up of any sort. And I think it could do a little better on gas. so I was gonna replace:
-plugs/wires
-oil filter/change
-trans filter/change
-fuel filter
- air filter
- PCV valve
How much will it cost to get this done? And how much will it improve my gas mileage you think? Is there anything else I should have done?

[okmech1]

I have a '94 with 107K. spent about $3 per plug (platnum) $30 for the warrantied wire set, $4 for the PCV - all at Autozone. I had to replace the leaking valve cover gaskets (3.1L V6) and did these tune-up items while doing that job (the back plugs are a pain!!!!) If you have a 3.1, there is a way to roll the motor forward by loosening the top motor mount, vehicle is supposed to be in neutral.

Factory service manual says tranny fluid is good for 100K, but probably a good idea (I want to change mine out soon too)

Coolant change might be a good thing too

Hope that helps a bit

[kerosene25]

thanks.
For these tune up parts: Are there any brand that work best
on a 1995 Achieva S 3.1L V6??
especially plugs and wires?
What are good brands for this Achieva for these parts?

[okmech1]

I just went to Autozone and went with the Duralast brand wires (lifetime warr included) and the basic brand platnum plugs. As far as what's best, Napa might have a bit higher quality, but it's hard for me to say, I was just looking for a good price and good quality.

You'll find that the front plugs and wires aren't too bad at all, based on the factory manual, the torque is 17 ft/lbs, Chilton says 11 ft/lbs, so I went in the middle (I went about 150 IN/lbs). The manual says the gap is .045

The back plugs however are a good little job. I replaced them while I was replacing the valve cover gaskets, so I had to take off the alternator and coil module anyway, but I spoke with a mechanic who has worked on quite a few achievas and told me you can roll that motor forward to gain more room to access the back. I didn't do it to try, but he told me to have it in neutral first (this way you don't have to pull the weight of the car when you roll it), but the weird thing is, you can't take the key out if it's in neutral. the top motor mount has a slide bolt that when you remove the two bolts that come through the fender well just below and inward of the slide bolt, it should roll by loosening the slide.

Oh, and on the PCV valve, the line boot that goes on the valve tore when I removed it from the valve, I just used some black RTV when I put it on the new one, and did the trick

Hope that helps

Mark