Checking purple wire to starter?

[klaus96]

A friend of mine told me that the purple wire coming to the starter comes from the ignition switch. I skinned the purple wire at the starter and I have no voltage when the key is turned over to the start position. I can hear what I believe is the fuel pump priming, the radio works, all of the dash diagnostic lights come on like normal, but the engine won't crank. This happened a few months ago and that same friend suggested the battery terminals. Positive was slightly loose and I tightened it. Started fine until the other day. I came out of a store and it took two turns of the key to start it. When I got home it wouldn't restart.
Does anyone know if the ignition module would cause it not to crank? Thanks.
93 Grand Am

Chris

[xeroinfinity]

If its not cranking recheck your cables and battery voltage.
You could have enough to run all those things but not enough to turn it over.

Probly a dead starter , I dont remember a purple wire even on these starters.....

[J-Ri]

Be sure you tape that up where you "skined" it or you'll have another no crank pretty soon. The ignition module would not cause a no crank.

I just did one today (93 G/P 3.1L), the exciter wire is purple.

[klaus96]

I did tape up the wire. I put charger cables on just to rule out the battery, even though I was measuring 12.8 volts. I tried to start it with the lights on and they don't dim any. I'm kind of at the point now where I need to swap out some parts. I'll probably have to throw in the towel and tow it over to the mechanic. Maybe the starter solenoid is open. I can't get to the top of it though without taking a lot of stuff off.

[J-Ri]

A very quick test is to gently tap the solenoid/starter with a ruber mallet. If you don't have one, use the handle of a regular hammer. It can free up a sticking solenoid, or move the rotor just far enough to get off a "dead spot". If the starter starts turning after tapping it, it's bad. Also check the big cable that goes from the solenoid into the starter. If you have power there while cranking, the starter is bad. It is very common for starters to fail due to oil contamination, if this is the case for you, repair the oil leak or the new starter will also fail.

[klaus96]

I already did the tap method. No results. If the fuel pump is priming when I turn the key to the start position, wouldn't that indicate that the ignition switch is good? Also, is it the "push rod" portion of the ignition that would be bad? It looks like what would be a throttle cable going into a canister assembly and then throttle cable going back out and into the firewall somewhere behind the accelerator pedal.

Are these the only parts I should be looking at to narrow it down:

Ignition Switch
Starter/Solenoid
Ignition Module

Keep in mind that it did this last fall. All I did was tighten the battery cable (coincidence?) and it had worked for several months up until now. It sure sounds like a bad starter, but I don't measure any voltage on the purple wire at the starter when the key is in the start position.

[brcidd]

Have you tried it in neutral- or wiggling the shifter while holding the key in start position? How about any aftermarket BS like a starter interrupt,an alarm system, etc? no juice to starter solenoid means trace it back upstream further-

[klaus96]

I tried the neutral position also. I can't seem to rule anything out yet.

[xeroinfinity]

Have you pulled the starter to get it tested ??

[Earl53]

That wire is a fusible link! Its a bastard but cut it out and put a new link (under $5.00 in a more accessable location. Had the exact same problem. I ran a new wire (no link) and haven't had a problem since.

[J-Ri]

Originally Posted by klaus96

I already did the tap method. No results. If the fuel pump is priming when I turn the key to the start position, (1)wouldn't that indicate that the ignition switch is good? (2)Also, is it the "push rod" portion of the ignition that would be bad? (3)It looks like what would be a throttle cable going into a canister assembly and then throttle cable going back out and into the firewall somewhere behind the accelerator pedal.

(4)Are these the only parts I should be looking at to narrow it down:

Ignition Switch
Starter/Solenoid
Ignition Module

Keep in mind that it did this last fall. All I did was tighten the battery cable (coincidence?) and it had worked for several months up until now. It sure sounds like a bad starter, but I don't measure any voltage on the purple wire at the starter when the key is in the start position.

(1) Probably, but they could be on different terminals.
(2) No. It would be in the switch. If it were a linkage problem, you wouldn't have fuel.
(3) are you describing the cruise control actuator?
(4) No. I read your first post wrong (sorry). No power to the solenoid "S" terminal means follow the wires to the switch, so rule out the starter (for now). A bad ignition module would let you crank the engine, but it wouldn't start (no spark). I'd guess it's probably a bad wire, but like I said, the exciter wire may come off a different terminal on the ignition switch.

It is more than likely a coincidence.

You could also try running 12v to the "S" terminal and see if it cranks.