Clearing codes

[Rasp]

So here is my problem.

I have changed my EGR valve finally. Took just 2 months to finally get time to do it.

I want to clear my codes but my battery is not in my engine compartment. Therefore I can't disconnect the neg battery terminal and clear codes.

I know that the battery is somwhere behind my rear seat (not my a$$) but do I really need to go this route?

Is there an easier way to clear codes. I was always told to disconnect the neg terminal first. There is a positive terminal in the engine compartment is it safe to disconnect it?

I also do not have a scanner to clear codes.

[inafogg]

hey rasp,just remove fuse for ecm & wait 5 minutes then reinstall.good luck & let us no!!!

[HotZ28]

Have you got an Advanced or AZ within reach? If so, have them clear the codes. If you pull the PCM fuse, you will loose stored driving parameters and the PCM will have to go through a relearn process. BTW, what year do you have?

[Rasp]

Too late I already pulled it. 2001 is the year. BTW what do you mean by driving paramaters?

I found the fuse pulled it and waited for a while but the check engine light is still on. So that means possibly 1 of two things

1. I didn't wait long enough.

2. I installed the EGR improperly. Which I think is pretty much impossible since it is so easy. All of the old gasket is off and new gasket fits nice and securely.

I don't have Auto zones here. I'm not sure which garage would do it for free. I might try and pull the fuse again and wait for a longer while.

[BNaylor]

It doesn't matter how long you pull the PCM module fuse it will not reset any stored, pending or history DTCs on your year and model LeSabre which means the SES/CEL light will not extinguish. You need an odb-ii scanner or a GM Tech II scan tool.

I have a field expedient method by removing the battery positive cable which I would like to see tested on a LeSabre that may work. However, no guarantee it will work but it is free and only takes around 5 minutes.

[Rasp]

Are you saying that you want me to try and disconnect the neg battery terminal to see what happens BNaylor.

That may be the only other thing to try I guess.

If that doesn't work maybe I may as well buy a obd II scanner. They are going to charge me anyway. Might be a little more cost but at least I'll have the scanner for the next time.

Just for extra note: I did take the fuse out and left it out for 10 minutes and of course that didn't do anything.

[BNaylor]

Actually try this procedure below step by step. It worked on my wife's '99 Buick Regal LS (SII 3800) when I did not have my scanner with me out on the road. If it works don't ask me why or how. It was conceived by some whizs on GM "F" body cars (Camaro/Firebird) but may work on others. It has worked for other AF members too. Good luck.

Make sure ignition switch is OFF. Remove battery POSITIVE cable.

Take ignition to full on/start position and hold for minimum period of 1 minute.

Take ignition back to off. However, key will not return to off and will be stuck due to lack of battery power.

Reconnect battery positive. Various relays will chatter.

Now take key forward then back to off. It should now remove.

Re-insert key and start engine. Note: SES/CEL should be off unless a Class "A" DTC error code immediately triggers it.

[Rasp]

I'll give this a shot. I'll try tomorrow and post back results.

My only concern is that I thought it was wrong to remove the positive terminal. My understanding was that the negative terminal always needed to be removed first.

If that isn't the case I'll give this a shot.

[HotZ28]

Just a reminder, if you have auto climate control, turn the ignition 'ON' and turn ACC system controller to ‘OFF’ before disconnecting battery power. In addition, to prevent voltage spikes that could damage the PCM or other control modules, always remove the negative battery terminal first!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Rasp

I'll give this a shot. I'll try tomorrow and post back results.

My only concern is that I thought it was wrong to remove the positive terminal. My understanding was that the negative terminal always needed to be removed first.

If that isn't the case I'll give this a shot.

This procedure is based on the battery POSITIVE cable only! not negative so you will have to disregard any concerns about that.

Note: Do not disconnect battery negative cable at all in regards to this procedure. It must be left connected.

[HotZ28]

Do as you like, however I have replaced quite a few PCM’s that were damaged simply by the arcing of the positive cable during the removal/install process. It may not happen every time, but it does happen quite often. If you are lucky, it may not happen. I would much rather use a scanner to erase codes!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by HotZ28

Do as you like, however I have replaced quite a few PCM’s that were damaged simply by the arcing of the positive cable during the removal/install process. It may not happen every time, but it does happen quite often. If you are lucky, it may not happen. I would much rather use a scanner to erase codes!

It is a radical and unorthodox procedure that I would not normally do since I have a few scanners both lo and hi end but it has been proven to work and well discussed at various auto forums to include AF for several years. Sometimes you have to take your chances depending on the circumstances. I would not recommend this procedure unless I tried it and it worked for me so seeing is believing. I had no problem with the PCM module getting zapped either or I'd have a new one in don't you think? It does a total reset of the PCM module clearing all history, pending and active DTCs and clears the tranny adaptive shift info so a relearn is required but that will be done automatically over a few drive cycles. Also, gets rid of the SES/CEL light. From what I understand of the theory behind the working of it the ground path must be through the main tranny/engine grounding stud and the battery negative or it will not work.

I do agree with your scanner thought.

[Rasp]

Well then..... I.... guess.... I'm not going to try it.

I would love to do the test but just not on my car. lol

I'm going to try and contact the garage that read the faulty code in the first place and see if they will clear it for free and if not I might just decide to buy a scanner. I have wanted one for a while anyhow.

Thanks for all the replies

[Rasp]

Well this is interesting.

I guess the car has a self-clearing system. I just had the code disappear on Saturday and it has not come on since.

This is good news to me. I don't need to buy a scanner and I don't need to take it in to get it cleared.