97 S10 won't start

[mightymaxx]

90,000miles. 2.2L engine. Was returning home from about an hour drive. Stopped at a steak house to eat and when I went to leave it wouldn't start. Here's what happens. I turn the key to on, llights and gauges activate, stereo lights up, everythign is bright and appears to have plenty of power. I turn the key to start and nothing happes. No noises other a few clicks from the 4 little relays on the firewall, but only two of them are clicking. I played musical relays and made sure they clicked when in those two positions, so I think they are ok. I was told the 97 s10 doesn't have a starter relay...but that was from an autozone guy, so I'm not so sure. Also I did try to start it in neutral and it acted the same (advice from friends something about a neutral switch that sits on the tramsmission). Checked all the battery connections and all fuse links inside and out....everything was fine. I'm thinking starter solenoid, but would give symptoms, and how would I narrow it down to that? Any other thoughts. Thanks so much for the help. I'm hoping to get going by monday so I can get to work..lol

[old_master]

Check both ends of both battery cables. Must be clean and tight. Take them apart to inspect and clean them. Post your results.

[timmythompson]

From my experience with a 94 Mustang....my vehicle did not start in ANY gear when the start switch was bad.

I am new to Blazers but battery connection, cable connection, battery, neutral start switch was the order I always checked.

[mightymaxx]

wow, thanks for the quick responses. We scrubbed the battery connections with a wire brush and made sure they getting solid contact. There was little to no corrosion. It seems the truck is getting solid power to just about everywhere that's visible to me.

[mightymaxx]

I've been doing some searching around and it seems that theres a general consensus that the starter solenoid can cause my described symptoms. Ther eis some debate though as to whether I should just buy the solenoid ($20) or the whole starter ($90). I'm thinking of just getting the solenoid and taking the chance on being out $20 rather than $90. Any thoughts?

[Chris Stewart]

I have better luck buying the whole starter on GM vehicles.

[Spectria, L1 MT]

Originally Posted by Chris Stewart

I have better luck buying the whole starter on GM vehicles.

My experience is similar to Chris about getting a complete Starter.

I am new to this forum so i don't know how far to suggest a questioner go to pre check things before going out and buying parts for testing.

I would first use a test light to see that power is getting to the solenoid wire at the starter, and to the main + terminal at the starter. If you get lights both times;

I would spend a few bucks and buy a starter Test Button. Thus is simply a heavy duty switch with heavy wires and alligator clips. I would find the correct wire directly on the starter, and jumper the starter switch from there to the battery cable on the starter.
You have to be cautious to clip your wires on only the correct terminals, and always have the vehicle in park or neutral, e-brake on, and block the wheels.
KEY OFF!!

If you do this test correctly, and you get no sound, not even a loud click from the solenoid on the starter, you know sufficient power is not getting to the starter/solenoid. It could also mean the solenoid or the starter are bad.

This assumes that the battery is good, and the cables are clean where they connect to their ends as well as where they connect to the Battery.

I have had many occasions when I had clean terminals, a full battery, and lights at the starter, but a vehicle would not start. Further testing revealed that even though everything electrical other than the starter seemed to work fine, when you attempted to draw the 150 to 250 amps a starter may draw on initial crank up, the failure would appear.

I have found corrosion inside of cables that finally separated a positive cable inside the insulation near a frame rail or exhaust manifold, and it just took that last vibration to separate it and keep sufficient current from flowing.

Without a good deal of additional equipment, such as an inductive amp meter, or a digital volt meter, you may be better off pulling the starter and having it tested.

[mightymaxx]

Well I've got it fixed. Turns out it was the starter solenoid. I took it to a local repair shop and had them replace the whole thing (starter and solenoid). $175 later and I'm back on the road. Thanks again for all the help and advice.