need help with front end noise

so2315 · #1 03-10-2008, 01:25 AM

I have a 2000 SEL that I bought new. It has 100K miles on it. I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends last year. Just in the last week I have experienced a new noise coming from the front end. If I turn the corner to the right, I can hear what sounds like a spring squeaking. The van has to be in motion to make this noise, and it only does it going to the right and not the left.
If I have the van parked, and bounce the front end, there is no squeaking. If I turn the wheel to the right and bounce the front end there is no squeaking. It only happens when I am driving the vehicle and turning to the right. The squeak also sounds like it is coming from the center of the dash, but my hearing is not the best anymore!
I greased up the tie rod ends really good as they now have zerks, and cannot figure this out for the life of me. The front struts are OEM, but they are not wet and the van does pass the bounce test. There si also no abnormal tire wear on the front tires. It also seems to do it more since we washed the van at a car wash.

12Ounce · #2 03-10-2008, 06:11 AM

You might replace the anti-sway bar links, both sides (since it has 100k already) and then the anti-sway bar bushings. NO Guarantees!

northern piper · #3 03-10-2008, 11:28 AM

I too had a squeek/clunk from sloppy sway bar bushings. They are deep under the motor and often I think we overlook them. If they are OEM then I'd say for sure they need to be done. I've replaced mine twice, (126,000km) and the passenger side always seems worse. Wierd as the passenger side seat is almost always empty!

Piper

so2315 · #4 03-10-2008, 03:17 PM

Well, I just put it up on a hoist and the bushings are far from normal. I can literally grab the bar and move it freely in any direction. I have the bushings on order, and this will probably take care of the noise that I always assumed was the disc brakes clapping on bumps.
Still have the rubber squeak and deep groan. My mechanic friend said that there is a chance that those noises are from the bar moving too freely, causing the other bushings to flex in ways they are not meant to be. Should have them in tomorrow.

northern piper · #5 03-10-2008, 06:47 PM

I'd bet this will tighten things up and most, if not all of your problems will be gone. I used the moog bushings and found that putting them somewhere warm helped to get them on the sway bar nicely. If they're cold, the job is much harder!

Piper

tripletdaddy · #6 03-11-2008, 01:27 AM

Ditto on the above recommendations. They definitely can be noisy and even make clunking, rattling noises. Piper, the passenger side of a vehicle always gets more wear and tear because that side of the road is rougher, more holes and the edge of the road. I heard mention of squeaking from the inner tie rod and I personally had noisy lower ball joint. Hopefully your mechanic will give it all a thorough check over.

northern piper · #7 03-11-2008, 07:15 AM

now that you mention it that makes a lot of sense regarding road condition. I was always somehow trying to attribute it to "people placement" in the van. I'm just waiting for the weather to warm up. Got new inner/outer tie rods, quick struts and a lower control arm to install for a complete overhaul of the front end on my 2000 3.8.

Piper

12Ounce · #8 03-11-2008, 08:44 AM

Another way to go is to use a reman steering rack. Costs a bit more, but you get new inner rods, new rack support bushings, seals, boots, etc ... all at once. Approx $150 thru Ford.

northern piper · #9 03-11-2008, 09:12 AM

true, although I really only need to do the R inner tie rod. My thought was as I'd have things already apart I might as well do both sides. I hope I don't need to do the rack in 6-12 mths. That Murphy's law seems to get in my way most of the time!

piper

so2315 · #10 03-12-2008, 01:30 PM

Well, I replaced the inner torsion bar bushings. What I thought was a simple 10 minute job turned into more. The drivers side came off fairly easy, but the passengers side bottom bolt was next to impossible to get a wrench on it. I ended up dropping the bolt holding the cradle and prying down on that enough to slip a socket in the gap to hold it open enough to get a wrench in there.
Tightened everything up. The noise that I have had for years (which I thought was disc brake clatter) is now gone. But the squeaking is still there. I greased up the outer tie rod end (replaced last year and has zerk) and greased up the bottom joint. I am assuming that the noise is coming from the top of the strut. I can also hear a clicking noise when the wheel is straight ahead and I push on the fender and bounce it. The struts are OEM and have 101,000 miles on them.
O Reilly's has the Quick Struts for $169 which seems really cheap compared to the other stores. I will tackle this, but was wondering how tough it was to seperate the bottom of the strut from the A-Frame? I loosen the bolt, but how do you seperate the pinch and drive out the bottom of the sturt? Any tips??

northern piper · #11 03-12-2008, 02:05 PM

check out this thread.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=746337

I'm going to be doing this same repair in 2 weeks. Please post your process/results!

Piper

12Ounce · #12 03-12-2008, 08:58 PM

That bolt must be completely removed ... it goes thru a hole on the strut shock. Using a bar to pry down on the lower control arm will usually break the wheel hub away from the strut assemblly. A little WD40 helps. Make sure both front wheels are off the ground ... to relieve the anti-sway.

so2315 · #13 03-12-2008, 09:10 PM

Is there enough room to remove the strut assembly without having to remove the calipers?

12Ounce · #14 03-13-2008, 05:51 AM

Nope, I believe the brake hose is too short for that .. and you don't want any internal damage to the hose by stessing it. I usually remove the caliper, leaving the hoses hooked up, and hang it using those monster 48" (?) long 1/4" (3/8"?) tie-wraps avail at Home Depot.

Also the ABS sensor has to be removed.

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