Moving Temp Guage and other problem?? Need Help!

[yfz45021]

Any one run into a problem with their temp gauge bounces? It moves up to normal operating temp and then just kinda bounces up and down within the 1/8 to 1/4 range. The engine does not feel hot and everything seems to be fine it just bounces. The engine is not over heating as i can pop the hood and touch the motor, I can also touch the coolant lines and they are warm and not hot.

I am wondering if it is the temperature range sender or coolant sensor. Let me know what your ideas might be, so i can get this fixed by weeks end.

**I also ran into a problem where when i pulled up to a light and slightly stopped but not completely, when hitting the gas again it acted like i was in neutral then took off in gear. Anyone run into this problem before? Sensor? This happens every once in awhile, but not all the time.

Thanks for the help,
I hope i get some better responses on this forum as the last one only one person responded.

[12Ounce]

Folks have different experiences as they have different year models and different trim levels. What year model and trim level is yours?

[yfz45021]

Sorry about that i was just going to edit my post.

It is a 1996 Windstar GL with a 3.0 motor.

Thanks again for the replies. I hoping to have it fixed before a long trip this weekend.

[wiswind]

You could have a voltage issue.....or more likely a connection issue at the sending unit.
The sending unit is near the thermostat.
I have a picture posted.....but have learned that my labeling may be backwards........I used a drawing in Alldata that clearly shows it how I listed it....but another member found theirs different......SOOOO
The Sending unit for the temperature gauge is the one with 1 wire.
The sending unit for the PCM has 2 wires.
A link to the picture....with the throttle body and air hose removed.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1350...11220610mdFuiN

As I mention above. the Temp Gauge sensor may be the one over the heater hose.....to the right in the picture......instead of how it is labeled....
Verify the connections....a bit of corrosion can cause what you are seeing...
I did not look to see if 1 had just 1 wire as another member mentioned they found on their vehicle.....things have changed from year to year.....
If there is 1 wire....then the ground path for the gauge will be through the sensor.
This picture is on my '96 3.8L.......but it looks a lot easier to see than it really is.....as the picture does not have the throttle body and big flex hose in the way.

[yfz45021]

Do you think by putting a OBDii scanner, would help find either one of these problems?

The one i am pretty concerned about the most is when pulling to a stop sign or red light, when taking off the Van acts like it is in neutral then take off. I am guessing it is a sensor either the TP Sensor or maybe Mass flow sensor.

I have searched aound online everywhere, but have found nothing really as to this problem or a confirmed fix.

I kind of thought a voltage issue with the temp sender, i unplugged it and cleaned it. Hopefully that will fix it, will try it later.

[CnlK]

Sounds like you might have a tranny issue also. Check the fluid level and condition, hope it is not dark and smells burnt. If fluid level and appearance are OK check the transmission range selector switch. Search this forum, there are plenty of posts with good troubleshooting and replacement info. The switch must also be aligned when installed. Windstars are infamous for tranny problems, have you been changing the fluid every 30Kmiles? I learned the hard way.

[tripletdaddy]

In a way it would be easier to be able to just replace the temp sending unit or the engine coolant temperature sensor, than go through all the possibilities and test for them. I am going to assume you can test the first two components to prove out they are bad and need replacing. If the above ect sensor is bad it could actually, believe it or not, affect the trans. Is the problem at the stop possibly the engine bogging down or hesitating, as some posters think trans, when it's been the engine?

I have come across several people with air trapped in their cooling system. Are you not getting heat inside at all, does it fluctuate like your temp guage? Feel if the two hoses to the heater core to see if they seem to be as hot as other hoses when the car is warmed up. Can you get the temp to fluctuate just idling parked as it would be nice to track what's happening?

1)temp sending unit, has single wire to it, tan or brown body, grounded to the engine, test from terminal to its body or engine:
hot engine 10 ohms
cold engine 74 ohms

2)ground disconnected red/white wire terminal to temp sender, turn on key, guage should be at hot. if not, then problem with electrical/electronic system not sender.

3)the engine coolant temp sensor has two wires with a gray body. At 65 degF, you should get 40,500 ohms at the two terminal on the sender with the wires off. and engine cold. with the engine fully warmed up 180 to 220 degF will give 3800 to 1840 ohms. Hotter gives lower the ohms. Measure across the two terminals of the disconnected wires you should get around 5 volts. Do the measurements at the same time, two cold ohms readings, then two hot, etc.

[yfz45021]

Originally Posted by tripletdaddy

In a way it would be easier to be able to just replace the temp sending unit or the engine coolant temperature sensor, than go through all the possibilities and test for them. I am going to assume you can test the first two components to prove out they are bad and need replacing. If the above ect sensor is bad it could actually, believe it or not, affect the trans. Is the problem at the stop possibly the engine bogging down or hesitating, as some posters think trans, when it's been the engine?

I have come across several people with air trapped in their cooling system. Are you not getting heat inside at all, does it fluctuate like your temp guage? Feel if the two hoses to the heater core to see if they seem to be as hot as other hoses when the car is warmed up. Can you get the temp to fluctuate just idling parked as it would be nice to track what's happening?

1)temp sending unit, has single wire to it, tan or brown body, grounded to the engine, test from terminal to its body or engine:
hot engine 10 ohms
cold engine 74 ohms

2)ground disconnected red/white wire terminal to temp sender, turn on key, guage should be at hot. if not, then problem with electrical/electronic system not sender.

3)the engine coolant temp sensor has two wires with a gray body. At 65 degF, you should get 40,500 ohms at the two terminal on the sender with the wires off. and engine cold. with the engine fully warmed up 180 to 220 degF will give 3800 to 1840 ohms. Hotter gives lower the ohms. Measure across the two terminals of the disconnected wires you should get around 5 volts. Do the measurements at the same time, two cold ohms readings, then two hot, etc.

I will have to check the sensor later when i have a test on hand, but i did check all the coolant lines and both the heater core line in and out feel the same as the radiator lines.

It does not really feel like a bogging with the motor when at the light. I can Rev the motor, then the transmission catches. It really feels like the Van puts itself in neutral and then into drive. I don't hear any tranmission noises when it catches, so i do not feel it is the transmission itself. I did have it serviced and they did not find anything out of the ordinary (it was done by a well respected Trans shop). I am wondering if it can be the Throttle position sensor causing this problem, because i have looked in my ford service manual and it saying that the TP sensor can cause the torque converter to cycle when going bad. That's what i guess it would feel like, the convertor not disenaging to allow the trans to take over. Could be wrong, but i guess that is worth a shot.

[yfz45021]

Originally Posted by CnlK

Sounds like you might have a tranny issue also. Check the fluid level and condition, hope it is not dark and smells burnt. If fluid level and appearance are OK check the transmission range selector switch. Search this forum, there are plenty of posts with good troubleshooting and replacement info. The switch must also be aligned when installed. Windstars are infamous for tranny problems, have you been changing the fluid every 30Kmiles? I learned the hard way.

Fluids are new as i just had the Trans shop service it. I have searched this forum, this is why i am asking(it would also help if people would post updates on how they fixed their problem if they did). I do not feel this is a transmission problem, or at least and clutch plates or pads, maybe a solenoid.

I am leaning more towards a sensor, like the throttle position sensor.

What is the normal problems with the TP sensor going out.

[tripletdaddy]

At this point, it would be the most helpful for you to have your codes read. You have not said if you do or don't have a check engine light. I think I read up that the related sensors would create codes if there is a problem. Let us know. Thanks

[yfz45021]

Originally Posted by tripletdaddy

At this point, it would be the most helpful for you to have your codes read. You have not said if you do or don't have a check engine light. I think I read up that the related sensors would create codes if there is a problem. Let us know. Thanks

There is no check engine light and i have a reader, so i hooked it up just to see if anything would show and nothing. I even left it hooked up as i drove to work and other places yesterday, but since the problem only happens every once in awhile the reader did not see anything.

[wiswind]

A good shop will have a unit that they can connect to the OBDII port and monitor the TPS position, Coolant temperature (as seen by the PCM from a different sending unit than the gauge), Input air temperature (as measured inside the big flex hose), as well as a number of other things.
I can monitor these things with my Scangauge, and the units that you hook up to a laptop computer....and run a program on the laptop go much further than my scangauge.
I would recommend the shop method.....as they will know best what to look for.......and is much better than trying to drive and watch the data at the same time.