Alero Power Passenger Window

[pkelley]

1999 Alero Passenger side window won't roll down, or even try to roll down. When you push the button, there's no click, or movement...nothing.

The weird part is, every couple of weeks, it works perfectly. But 95% of the time, nothing.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

[xeroinfinity]

Welcome to AF.

I'd check the fuses for the windows, might even replace the relay in the pass side fuse box(1 of 3).

Could possibly just be the switch(s).

Have you tried operating it from both door window buttons ?

[83cutlass]

Try holding down on the switch and banging your fist against the door panel near where you think the window motor is. If it starts to go then its a bad motor if not then it could still be a bad motor or a bad switch. If it doesn't work from either switch, then its 99% sure its the motor.

[xeroinfinity]

Originally Posted by 83cutlass

Try holding down on the switch and banging your fist against the door panel near where you think the window motor is. If it starts to go then its a bad motor if not then it could still be a bad motor or a bad switch. If it doesn't work from either switch, then its 99% sure its the motor.

I disagree with that, these buttons are crap and screw up all the time. I havnt seen many fail completly, with a little work you can usualy get them going. Corrosion on the plug ins is another problem, specificly the drivers door(most used).

It could be as simple as a fuse/relay, I know it realy sucks changing these regulators/motors too.

[83cutlass]

No dude you got it wrong. There aren't any relays in the power window system or fuses. Its on a circuit breaker in the RH IP fuse block. Its unlikely both switches don't work at the same time, therefore if the window doesn't work from either switch at the same time then its 99% likely its the motor. Of course if this were my car I would test for power and ground at the motor while pressing the switch, but I'm just gonna describe the shortcut method. And BTW these regulator/motor are extremly easy to replace once the door panel is removed.

[xeroinfinity]

Ok you're right, now that I think about it, thier is only the one circuit breaker in the pass side...

Disassembly is not bad, but for my big meathooks, its a little tight working inside the doors.


I'll shut up now.



ps- fleabay sells regulators pretty cheap!

[83cutlass]

Its cool. I ain't mad at cha.

[pkelley]

Neither switch will operate it, and already tried banging on the door. It doesn't even act like it's trying to roll down. Nothing.

The weird part is that it works PERFECTLY every once in a while.

You think motor, huh?

[xeroinfinity]

I will also add that if the drivers door window plugs are corroded,
niether switch will work the windows, and this can be intermitant.

[83cutlass]

It you own a test light or DC Voltmeter/multimeter and think you can sucessfully remove the door panel, you can test for power and ground at the motor connector and you'll then know for sure. If you wanna try that I can walk you through the removal of the panel, the test, and the motor replacement.
If not, well at least now you can take to a shop and kinda know what your talking about when you have them diagnose and fix it.

[Iflylow]

Regulator removal and replacement (with new, not used) should run you about $200. I've had 3 done, just waiting for the last one to go.
It can be done in your driveway with no special tools (just metric sockets and a couple of screwdrivers to pry the door panel off with) in about 20 minutes if you've done it before.