Hello Carb Issue!

[Urstin]

Hi guys! I own a 1987 Classic Brougham with the 305 small block V8. I'm currently having hesitation issues ( when I step on the gas from a complete stop ) and was told it could be one of two things. Either I need a new carb, or just a new fuel filter. Now I'm going to replace the filter, reason being it won't cost me 305 bucks!, but a grease monkey at school told me something about my engine not being a "true carb"? I was wondering if anyone knew what in the hell he was talking about, because the way he explained it, made little to no sense.

Also, can someone post up a link on how to rebuild a carb? I've never done something like that before, but I hear its only a 30 minute process at best.

Thanks dudes!

[deesandvees]

He might be talking about the fact that your stock carb is an electronic carb.

[Urstin]

I think so. The fact the carb is controlled by a computer and all. Well, I just replaced the fuel filter today, and to my surrrprise the sylenoid that controls the air:fuel in the carb was UNPLUGGED! Thats why my check engine light was on

It came on a long while back when my mom drove it and had it worked on at a local shop. They told her it would "go-away" in a few days ( the check-engine light), but up until noon today, it's been on ever since. But I talked to my boss today at the shop, and he told me that the carb I have is one of the hardest to rebuild. Now that that sylenoid is plugged in, my "hesitation" issue has been somewhat resolved, and I'll probably get BITCHIN' gas mileage compared to my previous 12mpg

[silicon212]

Those carbs aren't really hard to work on, but you do have to pay attention to your M/C solenoid lean and rich stop adjustments while you put it back together, and you will need a dwell meter to adjust the idle air bleeds with the engine running, once back together.

[deesandvees]

You got any better pics of the Landau?

[Urstin]

Originally Posted by deesandvees

You got any better pics of the Landau?

Yes, but it is no where near as sexy as yours My grandfather bought it in Colorado at a Repo auction, and its been across the US a few times, to Arizona, Michigan, Colorado, and back to Michigan. One thing about Michigan? Well, it sucks, and also the salt... I'm working my butt off to keep the rust off her but pretty soon I'll need to take it in.

www.myspace.com/urstin

add me, and then you'll be able to view my "Classic" album, where I have a bunch of pictures up.



About the carb rebuild:

A dwell meter?

[GreyGoose006]

wow.
young'ns.

a dwell meter measures "on time" of a specific object.
say you have a lightbulb that turns on and off all day long.
a dwell meter would tell you how long it is on for each time.
it can be used to measure lots of cool stuff in an engine, but mainly it is used for distributors (really old ones) fuel injection, and carb work.

[Urstin]

lol sounds like fun! Well, I don't feel the need for a rebuild, the engine is behaving the way its supposed to now that the M/C solynoid is plugged in! Thanks for all the help guys! I'll let you know if anything else falls off or breaks lol.

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by GreyGoose006

wow.
young'ns.

a dwell meter measures "on time" of a specific object.
say you have a lightbulb that turns on and off all day long.
a dwell meter would tell you how long it is on for each time.
it can be used to measure lots of cool stuff in an engine, but mainly it is used for distributors (really old ones) fuel injection, and carb work.

Okay, what's your point? Edit: Nevermind. It's been a rough Monday.

[silicon212]

[quote=Urstin]... About the carb rebuild:

A dwell meter?[quote]

The dwell meter measures the 'dwell', the duty cycle of the M/C solenoid. You ever hear the clicking sound from under the hood when you turn the ignition on without starting the engine? That's the sound of the mixture control solenoid cycling on and off. The duty cycle of the M/C solenoid also determines the idle air bleed operation.

The ideal duty cycle is 50%, which corresponds to 30 degrees on a 6-cyl scale. So that is what you want to achieve for maximum performance and economy.

[Urstin]

Very interesting. I've got a V8 though. So with a 30 degrees, would my gas be too lean? And I always wanted to know what that noise was, I thought it had something to do with the heat/ac. Lately though, I've noticed a slight "bzz" just as I turn the key to start the engine.

I think it may have to do with the alarm system on the car, I replaced the battery 2 days ago, but it did again after school today What makes that noise? haha.

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by Urstin

Very interesting. I've got a V8 though. So with a 30 degrees, would my gas be too lean? And I always wanted to know what that noise was, I thought it had something to do with the heat/ac. Lately though, I've noticed a slight "bzz" just as I turn the key to start the engine.

I think it may have to do with the alarm system on the car, I replaced the battery 2 days ago, but it did again after school today What makes that noise? haha.

You're not dealing with the distributor, so the cylinder count doesn't enter in, in this instance. The 6-cyl scale goes from 0 to 60 degrees, so 30 is dead middle - 50% duty cycle. The 8-cyl scale is 0 to 45 degrees, so that doesn't work.

[Urstin]

You guys are crazy with knowledge. I know its off topic in a way, but I hit a dead animal ( on accident ) today and parked my car at school. At the end of school Flat tire. Took me a long time to get it off, due to the fact my jack doesn't "jack" and I didn't know the hubcaps needed a key. HAH! Learn something new everyday, at least its the first time in a while I was late for work.