tie rod help

[bluebuick91]

i have a 1991 buick lesabre limited 3.8L i was told i needed to replace the iner tie rod on drivers side how do i do so is there any pics my chilton does not show any.
is it easy or hard, can it be done on the car,do i need any special tools,
if there is a photo i can see it wold help thanks in advance.

[happydog500]

I watched a guy do his with pliers and a jack in about an hour. It's easy. Chris.

[spinne1]

The inner tie rod is inside the steering rack and therefore is not "easy." It can not be done in one hour with a set of pliers and a jack. You must remove the gear from the car first, which involves unfastening both tie rod ends and then taking several bolts off the steering rack and also unfastening the rack from the steering column and then removing the rack from the car. Then you take the rack apart and replace the inner tie rod. Use an original factory manual (available all over ebay--be patient for your specific model).

[if there is some secret I don't know about where you CAN use just a set of pliers, let me know as I need to do this for my 92]

[inafogg]

info from search;Tie Rods (Inner)
See Figures 8, 9, 10 and 11
Disassembly of the rack and pinion assembly requires special tools and skills. Before attempting this time consuming and difficult procedure, check on the availability of already rebuilt rack and pinion assemblies. You may find it more cost effective to purchase a rebuilt assembly from your local parts jobber.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the rack and pinion assembly from the vehicle, as outlined later in this section.
3. Remove the tie rod end.
4. Remove the hexagonal jam nut from the tie rod.
5. Remove the tie rod end clamp.
6. Remove the boot clamp with side cutters.

Mark the location of the breather tube on the housing before removing the rack and pinion boot and breather tube.

1. Remove the rack and pinion boot and breather tube.
2. Remove the shock dampener from the tie rod and slide it back on the rack.
3. Remove the inner rod from the rack. Place a wrench on the flat of rack. Place a wrench on the flat of the tie rod housing and rotate the housing counterclockwise until the tie rod separates from the rack.

Fig. 8: Place wrenches on the flats of the rack and the tie rod housing, then rotate the housing counterclockwise

To install:

1. Hold the rack during tie rod installation to prevent internal gear damage.
2. Install the shock dampener onto the rack.
3. Install the tie rod to the rack, and tighten the tie rod to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

Make certain the tie rod rocks freely in the housing before staking the inner rod to the rack.
Fig. 9: Installation of the tie rod end

1. Support the rack and housing of the tie rod.
2. Stake both sides of the tie rod housing to the flats on the rack.
3. Check both stakes by inserting a 0.010 inch (0.25mm) feeler gauge between the rack and tie rod housing. The feeler gauge must not pass between the rack and housing stake.
4. Slide the shock dampener over the housing until it engages.
5. Install the new boot.

Fig. 10: Exploded view of the rack and pinion boot

1. Apply grease to the tie rod in the illustrated areas.

Fig. 11: Apply grease to the areas shown when installing the boot seal

1. Install the boot onto the tie rod and up to the housing.
2. Align the breather tube with the mark made during removal, elbow of boot to the breather tube.
3. Install the boot onto the housing until seated in the housing groove. After installation, the boot must NOT be twisted.
4. Position the boot clamp on the boot and crimp securely.
5. Install the hexagonal jam nut on the tie rod.
6. Attach the tie rod ends, then install the rack and pinion assembly into the car, as outlined later in this section.
7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
8. Take the vehicle to reputable repair shop and have the toe professionally set. If it is out of adjustment enough, a tire can wear out in only a few miles. It is advisable to have a front end alignment professional done after replacing steering or suspension components to avoid costly tire wear.

[Rasp]

Hey I'm not doing this currently with my car, but I think that was a great little how to manual you just gave I'm sure it will come in handy if I ever need to.

Good job inafog

[bluebuick91]

thanks for all the help on the tie rod, now I just had one more question. I can't get to it rght away, so I was wondering if it was alright to drive it around still until I can get it fixed. I just want to make sure the wheel isn't going to fall off going down the road, or cause me to wreck for any reason? Just want to be sure, this is the only car I have that is decent on gas, and don't need to wreck it. I sure can't afford to replace the whole car either!! Thanks

[inafogg]

i understand, it all depends how bad /loose they are.could cause vibration or a pull especially when hitting a bump or rutt in road.of coure you will see tire wear.dont want to say wheel could'nt break loose but probally not all depends on how worn they are.hope it helps good luck

[bluebuick91]

got it fixed jacked up the car took front wheel off blocked up car, the rubber boot was held on with a small hose clamp and a large pressed clamp had to change the larger one to a hose clamp worked great. i turned the front wheels to the right could not get a wrench on the iner tie rod because of the sway bar so i use a small pipe wrench broke it lose and it unscrewed right off put the new one on tightened back up tight with pipe wrench ajusted the tie rod same as old one slid a plastic cover back over iner tie rod end after i tightened it slid rubber boot back tightened clamps put wheel on drives nice.
it cost me $22.00 at car quest and a 4 mile round trip plus greasy hands to clean up.
i would have bought one from kragen there online price is $10.99 but they say they can't order it even though its on there web page.

[spinne1]

Originally Posted by bluebuick91

got it fixed jacked up the car took front wheel off blocked up car, the rubber boot was held on with a small hose clamp and a large pressed clamp had to change the larger one to a hose clamp worked great. i turned the front wheels to the right could not get a wrench on the iner tie rod because of the sway bar so i use a small pipe wrench broke it lose and it unscrewed right off put the new one on tightened back up tight with pipe wrench ajusted the tie rod same as old one slid a plastic cover back over iner tie rod end after i tightened it slid rubber boot back tightened clamps put wheel on drives nice.
it cost me $22.00 at car quest and a 4 mile round trip plus greasy hands to clean up.
i would have bought one from kragen there online price is $10.99 but they say they can't order it even though its on there web page.

While your fix may work, it is certainly not the recommended way to do it. You did not mention checking tolerances, etc. It very well may work fine for years. It would be difficult to properly torque the inner tie rod also doing it your way, would it not? Also, the press fit clamps are recommended over screw-type clamps but I really am not sure why. If it holds, it holds.