Window Regulator Passenger Side

[silveradofirerescu]

I am preparing to replace the window motor/regulator on the passenger side of my 2002 ext. cab and would like to know what some of the trouble points are? I am planning on using duct tape to hold the window in place. If anyone has a step by step that would help a ton. I have had the door apart before but never past the plastic. Oh, and that plastic if I remove it carefully, will I be able to restick it to the door or do I need to get some new stuff? Thanks!

[muff34]

Originally Posted by silveradofirerescu

I am preparing to replace the window motor/regulator on the passenger side of my 2002 ext. cab and would like to know what some of the trouble points are? I am planning on using duct tape to hold the window in place. If anyone has a step by step that would help a ton. I have had the door apart before but never past the plastic. Oh, and that plastic if I remove it carefully, will I be able to restick it to the door or do I need to get some new stuff? Thanks!

follow these instrucions you should have no problems. just reuse your plastic. use duct tape or whatever if it doesn`t want to stick .http://www.a1electric.com/installations.htm I don`t think I took the door handle off as they suggest when I changed my manual windows to power windows.

[silveradofirerescu]

Awesome that will help a ton, now i just need a day off... no chance you could help with that is there? HAHA thanks!

[muff34]

Originally Posted by silveradofirerescu

Awesome that will help a ton, now i just need a day off... no chance you could help with that is there? HAHA thanks!

The Day Off ,sorry can`t help ya there. the swap sure just bring it over ..........lol. Easy job to do just Don`t overtighten the window clamps .

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by silveradofirerescu

I am preparing to replace the window motor/regulator on the passenger side of my 2002 ext. cab and would like to know what some of the trouble points are? I am planning on using duct tape to hold the window in place. If anyone has a step by step that would help a ton. I have had the door apart before but never past the plastic. Oh, and that plastic if I remove it carefully, will I be able to restick it to the door or do I need to get some new stuff? Thanks!

in addition to the other helpful hints given make sure the steel cable is coated with white lithium grease.....and that the cable will not get chaffed by the steel metal wire guides.... my vehicle driver side cable rusted out no grease from factory....... passenger side i greased after driverside failed then 3yrs later passenger side failed sheet metal guide tab not bent correctly cut into cable...... 1st regulator with discount dealer 175.oo second passenger regulator from 1A auto in massachusetts 120.oo.....i'm sure you'll find this easier than you think.... follow directions... use tape to get plastic cover to stick...

[deadmeat]

I would be careful using duct tape as it tends to leave a residue. Painters tape or masking tape will not leave glue behind and should hold the window fine. Or you can do what I did and use bar clamps with cushioned clamp areas.

[silveradofirerescu]

Just completed repair, took 45 mins start to finish. 6 bolts, couple clamps, couple screws and some tape is all it took. I paid 25 for the regulator on ebay and 17 for shipping. I figure it is the passenger side and it doesnt get used nearly as often so it should last. If not I'm only out 40 bucks. I made sure to grease the cable and made sure nothing was rubbing against it. Thanks for everybodies help on here all the suggestions made it go very smoothly. One suggestion is that the screws that hold the door in place seem to want to strip out very quickly. Just be careful you do not over-tighten them.

[automps]

Originally Posted by silveradofirerescu

Just completed repair, took 45 mins start to finish. 6 bolts, couple clamps, couple screws and some tape is all it took. I paid 25 for the regulator on ebay and 17 for shipping. I figure it is the passenger side and it doesnt get used nearly as often so it should last. If not I'm only out 40 bucks. I made sure to grease the cable and made sure nothing was rubbing against it. Thanks for everybodies help on here all the suggestions made it go very smoothly. One suggestion is that the screws that hold the door in place seem to want to strip out very quickly. Just be careful you do not over-tighten them.

Hope it last longer then the one , I bought from ebay 2 years .. Done ! #3 on the pass side #2 on the driver side .. I thing the gm reg are better ....

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by automps

Hope it last longer then the one , I bought from ebay 2 years .. Done ! #3 on the pass side #2 on the driver side .. I thing the gm reg are better ....

ok now I understand were this opinion came from . Ebay is a crap shoot.

gm regulators are better than Ebay units. but not better than units supplied by others ,with a low price and a warrantee.

[automps]

Originally Posted by j cAT

ok now I understand were this opinion came from . Ebay is a crap shoot.

gm regulators are better than Ebay units. but not better than units supplied by others ,with a low price and a warrantee.

Belive me, I replaced many of these regulators . BAD DESIGN .. Should of left the old gear to motor design mid 90s.....

[automps]

Originally Posted by j cAT

ok now I understand were this opinion came from . Ebay is a crap shoot.

gm regulators are better than Ebay units. but not better than units supplied by others ,with a low price and a warrantee.

Look at the size of the motors, aftermarkets are half the size . I have a ac delco one to , motor is still half the size of the gm one... Dorman kit $94.00 Acdelco $112.00 Factory gm 165.00 The gm will out last the aftermarkets ! I sell all of theses kits....

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by automps

Look at the size of the motors, aftermarkets are half the size . I have a ac delco one to , motor is still half the size of the gm one... Dorman kit $94.00 Acdelco $112.00 Factory gm 165.00 The gm will out last the aftermarkets ! I sell all of theses kits....

the units I installed were exactly the same , except the cables looked like a larger sized wire. motors the same size. my units have been working fine for several years now as the others I installed.every one is happy with the units I got from 1A AUTO.

I have heard that there are very low quality units around these do not have any warrantee. I have not seen any to compare .

the older style is more reliable. with no cables to break they last a good 10 years or more. depends on proper lube and if in the dust areas these break more often. with these its the plastic parts . usually the roller/guide plastic.

all I know is GM high price, NO WARRANTEE !

[automps]

Originally Posted by j cAT

the units I installed were exactly the same , except the cables looked like a larger sized wire. motors the same size. my units have been working fine for several years now as the others I installed.every one is happy with the units I got from 1A AUTO.

I have heard that there are very low quality units around these do not have any warrantee. I have not seen any to compare .

the older style is more reliable. with no cables to break they last a good 10 years or more. depends on proper lube and if in the dust areas these break more often. with these its the plastic parts . usually the roller/guide plastic.

all I know is GM high price, NO WARRANTEE !

Wrong 1 year warr and 110.00 my cost .... Sometimes you cannot beat factory parts ! All the ones I replaced the gms stay in the longest ! Just my 2 cents....

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by automps

Wrong 1 year warr and 110.00 my cost .... Sometimes you cannot beat factory parts ! All the ones I replaced the gms stay in the longest ! Just my 2 cents....

I got one GM UNIT it cost 175.oo . this was with a 20% discount with a dealership.

for you to get these at 110.oo you must be an employee of GM.

I got 2 with a lifetime warrantee at 1A AUTO , for around 125.oo total [for 2] . that still beats even your great discount , which is about 50%.