Removing load bearing wall question

[J-Ri]

I'd like a second opinion on this idea. I'm removing a load bearing wall in my garage. The building is 24' wide, and the floor joists for the storage area above are 2"x10"x12's that rest on the center wall. I've seen those particle board I-beam things, but due to the length (38') I don't have enough vertical space to use them.

My idea is to sandwich the existing joists between two 2"x10"x8's, jack them up tight against the floor, clamp them together, drill several 7/16" holes, and pound 1/2" bolts through. I figure having the bolts that tight would keep the floor from sagging. Would I want to glue the boards too? Does anyone have any idea how much weight I could expect that long of a span to hold? The floor above is 2"x12"s nailed to the joists, can I expect them to hold up one joist so I can cut one stud out of the wall to put the new boards in?

I don't really work with wood very much so I want to be sure before I start cutting the wall apart... working with steel I can always weld some back on if I need to, plus there's no risk of the building falling on me.

[Toksin]

This is automotiveforums.com, not buildersforums.com.

Yellow pages man

[skibum1111]

It's not a matter of how much weight the storage space above will hold, but how long that floor will stay straight. 38 feet is a long stretch for wood without anything under it supporting the structure. I'd leave a couple of posts holding it up or have an engineer come look at what you want to do. I've refused to mess with load bearing walls before as I wouldn't want to be responsible for the building collapsing or worse.

[J-Ri]

Yeah, but this is the COMPLETELY off-topic area, and I know lots of users have knowledge beyond cars. I have a problem paying people to do something I could probably do myself. It's not the money, it's just knowing I didn't do it myself.

I'm not messing with the 38' span, it's the 24' span I'm modifying. Menards has 24' long 2"x10"s, so I don't think length would be a problem. Unfourtunately, I can't get the 24'ers in there .

[xeroinfinity]

Yeah 38' does need some supports.
Unless it's an engineered laminate board thats made to hold the load of the floor and roof rafters.

So exactly what are you trying to do.... remove the center wall ? Would that be on the 24' side or the 38' length foot ?
I've built several houses/buildings, I'm just not grasping what your intentions are here...

Like skibum said you're going to need to do some math or call an engineer on this one, or something will sag or fall.

[Oz]

....removing a load bearing wall.....

[2.2 Straight six]

Originally Posted by Oz

....removing a load bearing wall.....

as they say, the clue's in the title.

[ericn1300]

A steel I-beam would be my solution since you could also use it as a hoist point for working on cars.

[knorwj]

24' is too much of a span for 2x10 or even 2x12. You will definitely need to either get a laminated I-beam to go where the wall used to be, or if all you want is a more open floor plan get some 2x8's and sandwhich them together 3 thick staggering them as needed to make it the length of the old wall.Then get yourself some of those screw jack posts from home depot. They usually have the specs listed on the box for how much weight they can support each. I would probably stick them at least every 8-10 feet and one on each end.

Will these in place you will have a much more open floor plan and you can always adjust them over time as building settles and or heaves in time.

[stieh2000]

for an engineer or at least a reputable contractor who knows what they are doing.

['97ventureowner]

Originally Posted by stieh2000

for an engineer or at least a reputable contractor who knows what they are doing.

At least speaking with one and run your ideas by them to get their take. You might have to pay for their time or plan but at least you'll know what you're up against. I don't know how the laws are in Iowa, but work like that usually needs approval by your local building inspector. Maybe discussing your plans with your local building codes inspector ( if they have them in your area,) can also give you an idea of what you can and cannot do.

[72chevelleOhio]

So...why does this wall need removed in the first place?
Why won't a nice arch or header similar to a garage door's work just as well?

[2.2 Straight six]

Originally Posted by '97ventureowner

At least speaking with one and run your ideas by them to get their take. You might have to pay for their time or plan but at least you'll know what you're up against. I don't know how the laws are in Iowa, but work like that usually needs approval by your local building inspector. Maybe discussing your plans with your local building codes inspector ( if they have them in your area,) can also give you an idea of what you can and cannot do.

it's easier to get forgiveness than permission.

[knorwj]

Originally Posted by 2.2 Straight six

it's easier to get forgiveness than permission.

not true at all haha. Around here if you do it without permission (aka pay the permit fees) The code inspector can and will make you rip everything down and or out and then go through the proper channels. Most of the time if you try to go without the permits and get caught they will then deny your application for one.

[xeroinfinity]

Generaly most states dont require an inspection for modifications to an exsisting structure. Though it does very from state to state, and your local and county building codes.

Here you only need a permit for a new building or when pouring footings for foundation work, new or old construction.

But I'm sure you can sister a few 2x12' together(3 thick) to make a larger beam, those laminated/engineered beams are pricey for just a garage or shop IMO.

Best to play it safe and contact your local building/housing inspector and find out the particulars for your project.