Engine dies when decelerating

LilBluMetro · #1 02-19-2008, 12:34 PM

I have a 2000 "Chevy" Metro with a 1.0L 3 cylinder engine. Last week, while driving my 50 mile comute home, it just stopped. The engine would turn over but not run. Once the car sat for 30 minutes or so, it would start fine and run for awhile and stop occasionally. I replaced the distrubutor cap and the rotor on the advice of a friend, but this did not help. I remembered a similar problem that I had in another vehicle a few years back and replaced the Electronic Control Module. Problem solved or so I thought. This morning, after 5 days of running perfectly, it died again. Sometimes it will crank right back up and sometimes it just has to sit there for a few minutes till it will. I picked up another ECM thinking I might have gotten a faulty one and sure enough, it cranked right back up and ran....for 4 miles then died as I was slowing down. I got it to start again and continued this until I made it to work. If i managed to keep my rpms above idle, the motor would not die, but if I let it drop down to idle it was game over.

Does anyone have an idea of what this problem could be? I really could use the help.

dwendt1978 · #2 02-19-2008, 02:52 PM

You know I had a 95 escort that was only about 6 years old at the time and it did the same thing.
I replaced the fuel filter, and it was plugged up sooo bad I could hardly blow through it. I blew it out with an air hose and there was a ton of crap in there!
I'd check yours if you've never changed it.

LilBluMetro · #3 02-19-2008, 03:11 PM

I will check it, but i was thinking that if it is running fine at the higher rpms like driving down the highway, if it was clogged, i would be having problems then too. Shouldnt it act like it was starving for fuel.

metro_roy · #4 02-19-2008, 03:58 PM

A burned valve will cause very bad idle or low RPM performance but might not be as noticeable at high speeds. Check the compression on this engine and go from there.

metro_roy · #5 02-19-2008, 04:02 PM

If the compression checks out, try a new set of plugs (NGK) and good set of wires next.

dwendt1978 · #6 02-19-2008, 05:50 PM

I agree with Metro_Roy.

A fuel filter was my problem. But I'd definitely do a compression test.
There cheap to buy about 20 bucks.

LilBluMetro · #7 02-25-2008, 11:21 AM

OK, still haven't done the compression test nor checked the fuel filter since it is in the fuel tank. Trying to weed out any other problems before I have to drop the tank. But just to keep you guys in the loop, I found the pcv valve totally blocked -replaced it-. Now it still dies when I let off of the gas, but it will restart right away if i turn the ignition all the way off and back on to let the fuel pump build pressure back up. It won't restart unless I do this. Starting to look like I am going to have to drop the tank for the fuel pump and filter eh? Also brought it by a real mechanic to take a look at it and he said to check my throttle body motor assembly -not sure if that name is correct- which I did and it is clean as can be on the inside. Oh yeah the metro will not die if it is sitting still in the driveway, rev it as much as you want, but just on the road while driving.

metro_roy · #8 02-25-2008, 11:44 AM

The fuel filter is not in the tank. It is located on the frame back by the drivers side rear wheel. Follow the gaslines back from the engine and you'll see it before they get to the gas tank.

LilBluMetro · #9 02-25-2008, 03:59 PM

Ah. I haven't looked yet, I was just assuming it was since I can't seem to find a replacement for the fuel filter other than the one located on the pump in the tank. But I will look for it this afternoon after I get off of work.

Woodie83 · #10 02-25-2008, 05:00 PM

You're right, the only fuel "filter" you have is a cotton sock over the pickup inside the tank. If I were to go to all that trouble, I'd replace the pump too.

LilBluMetro · #11 02-25-2008, 08:22 PM

Ugh, yep confirmed. since this is a 2000 model, the fuel "filter" is in the tank. I will probably bring the car to a mechanic in 2 days when I can since I just wont have the time nor the equipment to raise my car to get to the fuel take. I really hope this solves the problem.

Woodie83 · #12 02-26-2008, 06:43 AM

You should have someone test the fuel pressure before going to the expense of having the tank dropped to change something that rarely causes trouble.

metro_roy · #13 02-26-2008, 11:36 AM

Doh, I hate it when I give bum advice. I went to the www.advanceautoparts.com before I posted the message, and they listed the same fuel filter as for my 95, so I ASSUMED, the 2000 is the same as a 95.

dennybam · #14 02-26-2008, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LilBluMetro

I have a 2000 "Chevy" Metro with a 1.0L 3 cylinder engine. Last week, while driving my 50 mile comute home, it just stopped. The engine would turn over but not run. Once the car sat for 30 minutes or so, it would start fine and run for awhile and stop occasionally. I replaced the distrubutor cap and the rotor on the advice of a friend, but this did not help. I remembered a similar problem that I had in another vehicle a few years back and replaced the Electronic Control Module. Problem solved or so I thought. This morning, after 5 days of running perfectly, it died again. Sometimes it will crank right back up and sometimes it just has to sit there for a few minutes till it will. I picked up another ECM thinking I might have gotten a faulty one and sure enough, it cranked right back up and ran....for 4 miles then died as I was slowing down. I got it to start again and continued this until I made it to work. If i managed to keep my rpms above idle, the motor would not die, but if I let it drop down to idle it was game over.

Does anyone have an idea of what this problem could be? I really could use the help.

It is most likely 1 of 3 things that are wrong, Fuel pump relay or, the ignition relay is bad, when it cools down it works again. To test this yourself, most likely the relay box is with the fuse box under the hood. Switch places with the 2 relays; they should both be the same. A bad connection on the ignition switch can do this to you also. If you have any accessories attached to that ignition that were not factory installed, like an amplifier for your stereo, or as a back yard mechanic will connect the coolant fan to the ignition load to by pass a problem that is beyond his abilities to fix properly, this will cause the ignition relay and or ignition switch to over load and burn out in turn causing your symptoms. Also it could be many more things MAP sensor would be up high on the list also. I hope that this helps you!

LilBluMetro · #15 02-27-2008, 09:54 AM

Well, yesterday, I went searching for a way to test the fuel pressure. Gonna have to rig something up since my local parts store doesnt have a set up for that. I also purchased a ignition coil and swapped out the ECM again because someone told me it could be my coil frying the ecm....still same issues. I haven't tried the relays yet, but I will do that tonight when I get home. Gonna cross my fingers when I do. Thanks for the help guys and I will keep posting with all the findings. I just gotta fix this tough little car. It may be ugly and beat up, but I love it.

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